can some one tell me how the 313 works. i just bought one that needs a bit of work and i do not see how it works. i do not see anything that would make it go up and down. can some one give me an idea, etc.
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Check out this link for infomation on it's hook up and operation:
If you're indeed talking about the Postwar 313 bridge, you need to slide the roof off the bridge "tender' shack" which exposes the motor and gear-train assembly used to raise and lower the bridge span. That gear-train is linked to the bridge itself through the tower nearest the building.
i did not find the chain i hooked it up and it does not work. the motor ran good but the bridge did not move. i could not see where the chain hooks up to anything on that gear box.
On the original post war bridge, there is no chain. There is a rod that goes from the gear box to the top of the tower,
Originally Posted by traindork:
can some one tell me how the 313 works. i just bought one that needs a bit of work and i do not see how it works. i do not see anything that would make it go up and down. can some one give me an idea, etc.
It sounds like you have a bunch of missing parts.
ok i have a rod that they guy said makes it work. can any one show me a pic of how to put it in?? the guy said that it worked. so i am hoping that he did not lie to me.
The motor shaft which comes out of the bridge tender's house turns a Bell Crank which in turn is connected to that shaft which raises the bridge. Odds are it is the Bell Crank which is missing. I had a tool maker friend of mine fashion a new one. It is a critical part as a fiber pin on the end of it also shuts off the motor at the end of the cycle. To my knowledge replacement bell cranks are not available from parts dealers, but will have to be custom made.
The next most likely failure point is a missing or loose screw that connects that shaft to the bell crank.
Photos would help to make an intelligent diagnosis.
Good Luck.
Bill von Tagen
Why do you buy something you know nothing about? Did you get it from a store, or from a person, friend, Ebay?
well Eddie G i picked it up at a train show. i know a little about it so it is a bit more then nothing. the guy does have a store. but no where near where i live. i bought it because i always have wanted one. so i found one that i thought looked good. the guy told me that it works. did you ever buy a computer and have no idea how to work it??
does any one have a pic of how the rod is connected so i have an idea how to hook it up?
You might want to post some pics,there are a lot of members on this forum that once they see what the problem is they will be able to get you fixed up.I have done it and it was invaliable.
i put the pics in the first post i hope that they help.. any one any one??
Here are pictures of the right tower. The Lifting Arm is inside the tower and is vital for the operation of the bridge. At the bottom is the wafer stackup that controls electricity once the operating button is pushed. It's tuff to photograph inside the tower.
The left tower houses the balance spring necessary to help the small motor/gearbox lift and lower the bridge.
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There are TWO kinds of 313 bascule bridges. One is silver, and is spring-driven. That is the POSTWAR version. The other is gray, and is gear-driven. That is the PREWAR version. From the looks of it, you have the silver postwar version. As near as I can tell, assuming the motor has a drive-shaft protruding from its side, and, about an inch away, the shaft on the gearbox of the closest tower is there, you need a "football" shaped drive spring which fits tightly to connect both shaft ends. I believe Jeff at the Train Tender has these or could probably get one for you. I'd order a couple of these just to be safe. This should get you going. As far as the control aspects, I have two
313s and just wired them to turn on or off by means of a push-button controller.
Not one to disagree but that one in the first post is the postwar made with prewar parts version. It uses the gearbox and tie rod like linkage.
I recently rebuilt ( not restored, it was beyond that and weathered mine.
I recently rebuilt ( not restored, it was beyond that and weathered mine.
still am working on how to hook up the rod to make this work.
Tried to post some pics but server is bogged down.
Will try from home.
Fred
Will try from home.
Fred
Originally Posted by traindork:
still am working on how to hook up the rod to make this work.
I am totally confused. If this was working when you purchased it, why are you trying to hook up a rod to it? Was the rod lying loose somewhere inside the little shed?
no the rod was attached to the bridge by a zip tie.
Post a pic of just the rod. That way we can tell if it is intact.
Also try to zoom into the back of the tower near the house. The bell crank might be still attached to the gearbox.
It has female threads and the connector rod screws into it.
Also try to zoom into the back of the tower near the house. The bell crank might be still attached to the gearbox.
It has female threads and the connector rod screws into it.
I just had a better look at the photos that traindork submitted with his original post. The football shaft spring that is referred to in my original post appears to be in place, in the second photo. It could be that this spring is slipping on either the motor shaft (the most likely spot) or on the gearbox drive shaft. If that's the case, it will need to be replaced. I'm curious as to what looks like a connecting drive link resting on the back part of the motor shed, or am I seeing things? If that is indeed the drive link, then you will have a bit of work getting it reinstalled.
BTW, this IS a postwar 313, with postwar components.
Hi Initagain,
I tried to post a correction once I saw the "football" spring.
But I always thought that the prewar was either grey or silver painted sheet metal and the postwar was unpainted aluminum.
The photo looked to me like it is silver sheet metal with rust.
I had read that lionel redesigned the drive after the war but there are postwar versions with prewar parts.
I may be wrong, but not old enough to have been there.
My prewar was sheet metal with silver.
Looking at it, my tie rod is one piece with an elongated eye.
The bell crank is attached to the gear shaft with a Philips head set screw. The eye attaches to the bell crank with a slotted shoulder screw. Straight cut shaft gear to offset worm gear off gearbox. Opposite on other end. Removable brass gear to worm gear on Ac pullmor motor. I think later design is actually inferior. Less precise but probably cheaper to make.
Fred
I tried to post a correction once I saw the "football" spring.
But I always thought that the prewar was either grey or silver painted sheet metal and the postwar was unpainted aluminum.
The photo looked to me like it is silver sheet metal with rust.
I had read that lionel redesigned the drive after the war but there are postwar versions with prewar parts.
I may be wrong, but not old enough to have been there.
My prewar was sheet metal with silver.
Looking at it, my tie rod is one piece with an elongated eye.
The bell crank is attached to the gear shaft with a Philips head set screw. The eye attaches to the bell crank with a slotted shoulder screw. Straight cut shaft gear to offset worm gear off gearbox. Opposite on other end. Removable brass gear to worm gear on Ac pullmor motor. I think later design is actually inferior. Less precise but probably cheaper to make.
Fred
It just occurred to me that maybe mine is a postwar "silver" painted version with a prewar gearbox.
Either way it does not matter because now it is weathered to a nice "rusty" patina with an aged concrete counterweight.
The exact opposite of what Dennis B. Did to his in his Hi-Rail Book.
The house and roof is still original.
fred
Either way it does not matter because now it is weathered to a nice "rusty" patina with an aged concrete counterweight.
The exact opposite of what Dennis B. Did to his in his Hi-Rail Book.
The house and roof is still original.
fred
Looking at the first photo it appears to me that the lift rod is broken on one end. It's hard to see but it appears to be broken where it ends sitting just above the washing machine. It just doesn't look right.
