3454 merchandise car

Is there flash on the new sliding shoe preventing the rivet from touching the center?

Is the rivet head protruding far enough from the shoe so it can slide on the control rail? Is the operating wire soldered to the high side of the coil coupler contact?

 Another thing to check is there enough tension on the shoe from the spring to provide enough downward pressure? Is the sliding shoe shorting out, maybe by a bad wire or bent contact spring, or solder?

I don't know what a flash is, but the truck is not new, it is off a car I no longer use and is the same as the one removed.

The rivet head protrudes about 1/32", right now the wire is soldered to the rivet, I had it soldered to the brass tang next to the coupler. I have bent the brass down to be sure there is pressure on the pickup.

I do not think the wires are bad because I can activate it by energizing the pickups. 

Try polishing the head of the rivet, where it sticks out in the slot of the shoe.

Are you using a UCS, RCS, 1019, or 6019?

Does the car short out the layout when you try to operate it, or is the car just 'dead'

 Does the coupler work like it should? If it works off track, have you tried operating the car from the opposite side (car 180 degrees turned around) just to see if it works that way.

I have tried it on both UCS and RCS 

Just dead, yes I have turned it 180 degrees. I have the couplers wired closed because when they would open when going over the Ross switches.

OK, but how did you wire electric couplers closed?

I used some of the wife's floral wire, it's an uninsulated wire, very thin. I made several wraps around the assembly just behind the knuckle coupler.

I have used it on my 3461 log car and my 3469 ore car with no negative effects.

Why would the couplers on a 3461 and a 3469 open gong over switches? They are mechanical, not electric. AND, this method won't work on the 3454 couplers, as they are electric("coil couplers").

I think it's time we get some pictures to help you out.

So if I understand right, the trucks, or couplers have been changed from electric to mechanical couplers? (the type that the metal plate pulls down to uncouple).

 Each truck has a sliding shoe, correct?

Correct the metal plate pulls down and each truck has a pickup shoe.

I got the car to operate in one direction, not the direction I need it to work, turning it 180 degrees it does not work also the couplers are now opening on the unload button, I have tried switching the wires on the track but that did not change anything.

I cannot understand why just changing out a truck with the exact same thing is causing such a problem.

The uncoupling electromagnet shouldn't operate with the unload button. I am now suspecting there is a problem with the track or controller.

This is normal for coil-coupler equipped cars, for one coupler to open on "unload". If both are opening, you have a wiring issue with the car(both couplers are wired somehow to one shoe) and this would explain your operating issue too.

Rob,

 From what I understand he has converted to mechanical couplers.

Would lead me to believe he has not converted, this reply:

would lead to "HUH"? He is describing a coil coupler problem and a mechanical coupler solution in the same sentence.

Why would the mechanical couplers open @ switches?

Hence the request for photos.

quote:

The uncoupling electromagnet shouldn't operate with the unload button. I am now suspecting there is a problem with the track or controller.

The service manual shows that the electromagnet will work when either button is pressed on a UCS "O" uncoupling track.

On a 1019 027 uncoupling track, the electromagnet only works when the uncouple button is pressed.

 Here are some photos, I am wrong on the type of couplers they are not mechanical.

Still need help resolving this, as for the track all the other operating car work fine on it. How could the wiring be messed up I just resoldered one wire the yellow one.