38 repair

Are the wheels gauged properly?

Is the track gauged properly?

Are the wheels in good condition, or are they starting to bulge and distort and disintegrate due to zinc pest (almost a given if original - if not original, they may have incorrectly been installed (mis-gauged))?

Hello BM, the wheels appear to be made of cast iron (it’s mfg era) the track seems to be gauged correct, i believe the curves 42”. Here is a picture of the track and wheels 

Just for giggles, did you try to run the train in the opposite direction around the curve?
If it still binds, I would try and take the side rods off the wheels on both sides and try it again.

Side rail holes may be worn and may cause the wheels to bind.

I am not a expert but having a similar problem where may have to re-gauge a wheel on one side a my side rods are new.

Hello Ron, I ran the train in the opposite direction and the gears didn’t bind. So that being said I think that there might be something wrong with the gear the small gear, here is a picture of the gear I’m talking about:

It might be a case of one wheel slipping on the axle just enough to bind in one direction and not the other. Or it slipped and stayed there, as Ron points out causing the rod to bind. Thinking out loud and certainly not an expert.....

Well, with all of these things that could possibly be the reason why the locomotive is getting binded, is there any way that I can fix these issues without having to send it off to be repaired?

                                          Trainfam

You probably have a worn compound gear -as stated above.  This would account for the fact it runs in reverse but not forward.. the gear gets more wear in the direction it is most used—Forward.  Just replace it and check all other gears for wear too.

Your wheels might be slightly out of quarter also. This some times happens if they slip on the axels and are out of gauge (get wider and pop off the the compound gear).

Hi southern Crescent, I believe also that this could have been the reason why the locomotive was binded. Do you happen to have a idea of where I can get a replacement compound gear?

                                             Trainfam 

If you could remove the side rods and try the loco in both directions around a curve. If it still binds it may be the compound gear. If it does not bind it may be that one of the wheel is out of quarter. Just a thought. if the screw do not come out on the side rails from the wheels do not force.

Olsen's kindly hosts service information for much of the older Lionel, including your 38 and many STD Gauge motors:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=966

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd2t.htm

Forum Sponsor, @Harry Henning seems they may have the correct compound gear, but he could for sure let you know which part number would be correct and if he can supply it:

https://hennings-trains.shopli...40p-25t-w-screw.html

Yes all good advice on the parts needed. You might also check with Jeff Kane at the Train Tender for the gear.

Hi everyone trainfam here, 

i have been working on the 38 more and noticed that it seems a little wobbly, take a look:

Is this a problem?

                                                       Trainfam 

Is the wobble from the wheels not sitting flat? Is the motor to frame where the wobble is? What about the frame to body?

The locomotive seems to be not sitting properly because of the wheels. 

                                                Trainfam 

I wonder if you have a bent axle or a deformed wheel... If you roll it back and forth on a level surface you may find that the wobble is consistent and cyclical and clocked to the wheels/axle.

I tend to believe that it could be a deformed wheel as the axles don’t look bent

do you have any idea of how I can fix this?

                                           Trainfam

Run it upside down and see what wobbles

I ran it upside down and it appears that one of the wheel is not as low as the other 3 wheels... strange.

                                              Trainfam 

Well in your video you rocked it on opposite corners. Which ever way it rocked has to be your smaller wheel. I just looked at 2 of my 38's. The distance between the wheel flanges at the closest point is a little more than 1/16" . Only the axle that drives is "tight" in the frame. The other axle has slop up and down. 

Well with all this being said, it seems to me that a new wheel is needed possibly? Or is there anyway I can save this old wheel perhaps?

                                             Trainfam 

Rocking could be a tweaked frame or bad axle bushings too. Re-tweaking is possible. Also may need to re-stake things if its bad.

Bad axle bushings can compound the gear issue, or be the issue alone. Grab a wheel and feel for an oblong bearing. An oblong bearing causes excessive "runout" an the wheel o.d. (wheel gear o.d. too).

You need to measure/inspect/compare the wheels, not assume. Also measure from surface to frame bottom for corners to sit level (or close, the machined axleholes are the real reference)  Just as likely the track isn't level.

Gearside especially, the wheels must be true for good, even,gear mesh. A bent axle on the plain side might be straightened añd live many many years. I've simply used a vice before (& wood in the jaws )  À bent axle on the gearside means gears will go tight, then loose until it wears in (closer to worn out )

But the axle is more likey the issue than a wheel (assuming quartering is ok too; etc)

Gear/post being loose is just as bad as a loose axle bearing, the usual cause of gear screeching that usually notes an upcoming binding issues; a sandlike hesitation in the gearing, etc.

So, I'd look at my bushings, gear ,and post first. If the wheel gear teeth don't look worn over/soft edged, tracked, spotty wear, concave, etc. under close inspection, it's likely fine.

Ideally to check for wheel trueness you run a dial gauge on the wheel o.d. at 90° to the axle, then on the wheel face at the o.d. parallel to the axle. (and "in and out" axle slop is "thrust clearance")  Doing it at 0° then 180° (or), 90° , 270° shows bore alignment if the frame can be referenced. 

Feeler gauges or homemade go/no go blocks can also reveal issues with trueness just as well as a fancy dial

Lots of great information and helpful tips coming in, tomorrow I will do more work/testing on the locomotive.

                                               Trainfam 

From that last picture of the bottom, the lower right wheel in the photo looks decidedly crooked, like the axle is bent or the wheel isn;t fully seated on the axle.  Is that the wheel that isn't touching?