8 Days to get her into shape a "total disaster"

It appears you have one of those AHM kits of a Casey Jones steamer.

nice project!

The AHM/Rivarossi 2-rail DC O scale from the 70s are nice models.  I have a Casey Jones like yours and a 'Genoa' 4-4-0. Here's a video from sncf231: the Casey Jones is seen around 1:10

I really like it! With properly stripped paint and a repaint using an airbrush or new spray can, the paint job should clean up nicely.  The cab is the worst part.  As for the motor, I haven't seen many that can't be made to run. Let us know if you run into problems.

George

I have actually never seen those O gauge models in person. They're plastic, right?

What's with the side rods on the tender truck ?

Upon diving into this there is very little that is not broken or bad.  Fortunatly there was a very poor glue used and most simply breaks apart.  I have been able to get the motor by itself to run so that is a big positive.  I have replaced the axles and wheels forward and plan on using them to pick up from the rails eliminating the problem of plastic centers.  I will also be running a pickup on the tender for the outer and center rail.  Under the locomotive I intend to rivit a center rail pickup.  This way I will be able to trigger switches etc and also maintain a longer pickup for running over the same.  I purchased parts from a newer locomotive and may be able to incorporate the smoke into it. 

One other picture

Dan Padova posted:

What's with the side rods on the tender truck ?

The prototype for the model IHB 0-8-0s had a booster steam engine on the tender lead truck. These beasts were also three-cylinder locomotives. The boosters come in handy for starting long drags in yard switching. If a steam locomotive can get a train moving, then it can run with it. 

I love the look of that IHB loco!  One of these days...

It is AHM/Rivvarasi Illinoise Central #382 Casey Jones Cannonball. It may be a kit or prebuilt. But I expect it to be a kit. It has a 12vdc motor as a kit, and needs a wide curve 42" or more(?)( if the pilot truck isn't modified.) To run ac voltage you need to confirm it has a bridge rectifier. Is it already 3rail? Mine now can take on any track. And I recenty posted what I have finished so far on my own build up of one of them.

If your motor is cooked from testing on AC, the motor kits show up on eBay.

A little weight added to the boiler and this one outpulls a Lionel General by a car or two.

I'm going to need to search for a link and repost with it soon.

 Here is a link https://ogrforum.com/t...ahm-rivarossi?page=1

To be honest I had found your thread and read thru it more than a couple times before my disaster arrived.  My motor is different than yours and I may be looking to replace it in the future.  As far as a rectifier, there was none that I could find as I tore into the model.  I did go buy one and tested the motor (by itself) touching wires to my track and it spins.  Before I purchased the rectifier I had checked the motor to see that it would spin on DC using a simple drill battery.  Ive drilled and lined the stack with copper tubing for a smoke unit and found trucks for the tender.  The lights will be soon enough and once I get that figured out I can do wiring and testing.

Well what's the disaster? Just that it wasn't running? The look? Which you seem to be sprucing up nicely by the way. Is it set for 3 rail?

Mine is very quiet. Its not a good puller if it doesn't have some extra weight it the boiler, but performs well within its limits, slightly better than a General and quieter. I really enjoy its unique look.

A grain of wheat bulb will fit, or led set up since you're going to have DC available anyhow.

I'd think.an ho fan drven smoke unit might be what you want to look at to fit.

I made this out of a post war element & a silicone pill container for drift smoke, which it kinda weak, but there. It belongs to another plastic train but you never know, the 382 might get it. Fiber washer keeps the stack liner off the element. The silicone well seals well enough to hold a decent amount of fluid. More than a General, lol.

The general condition made it a disaster.  Basically I am working with an incomplete broken kit that was assembled very poorly with a horrid paint job.

Ok so yesterday was productive or so I think, 3 steps back 4 steps ahead kind of think.  Hang onto your hats . . .

I've decided to ditch the AC motor and go with a "new" system.  I have a busted (guts are good) locomotive here with what I would like.  It has a newer can motor, reverse, smoke, lights, etc.  It would run but was slow, I know the motor has power though. Wheel diameter is increased switching locomotives and weight is a drastic change which is not good.  I want as much weight as possible down low and the best way I know is to simply cast it in place.  The foreward truck has been weighted and axles installed (not pictured finished) as I want to insure good contact for tripping switches as well as being the pickup for the new motor.  To weighten I poured pewter into the plastic truck then cut out axle slots and soldered brass axle tubes in.  Once done it will all be sealed in epoxy.  I've decided to retain the rivarossi gearing so I drilled the rivarossi worm out once removing and soldered onto the new lionel motor.  The circuit board is inverted and epoxied into the tender shell, I will have to run wires from the tender to the locomotive unfortunatly.  With the die cast trucks on the tender there should be enough weight for the pickups.  As I fit the smoke unit lights etc I will be pouring more pewter into the locomotive to increase weight as I have on the frame bottom between the wheels.

And it's over, the circuit board smoked testing.  Modifying the model for the new motor I can't go back to the old.