Ahm/Rivarossi

Jim,

I assume your question is about the gauge 0 AHM RivaRossi kit. I made pictures of 2 pages of the instructions. Does that help?

Regards

Fred

trainnut56 posted:

Any help greatly appreciated.  Cheers Jim

Yes Fred just what I needed, thank you very much.  Cheers Jim

Fred, Got anything on the Casey Jones model?  Does it share the Drive kit or is it able to be modified to fit? I will be powering a shell ,  come he....well let's hope its a small creek trestle to cross and not high water, lol.

56, I hope you don't mind this train thread robbery too much

Adriatic,

Here is a link to the (Italian) RivaRossi 0 gauge catalog: http://www.rivarossi-memory.it...ogo_Zero_1971-72.htm (click on the pages on the left to expand).

The IHB model came in 2 kits: one for the loco with plastic wheels and one to motorize  the loco and this included the metal wheels. The Casey Jones model also came in 2 kits, however the model kit already included the metal wheels and the motorizing kit was simpler. Both models had the same motor but I do not think you can use the one kit to motorize the other. I might have somewhere the Casey Jones instructions, but if so they are deep in some pile. The IHB I acquired much later and the instructions were still "on top" of the pile. What information do you need?

Regards

Fred

As it turns out, maybe intstruction, but maybe nothing. I'll let you know in a few days.

  I have both CJ kits on the way from Mike G. I thought it was just the shell kit, but he must have saw this thread, because he let me know the powertrain kit was included too.

  I thought I was going to be kit bashing the power, and got too excited each time to ask about instructions. Ive wanted something to represent one of Casey's trains for yeats.  I even contemplated bashing the Marx William Cook.

   Someone had mentioned a kit without the instrictions, and I had looked at a few while waiting to see if a previous deal for it was followed through on. It wasn't, and I'd rather send my money to a great guy like him anyhow, so Im glad I waited it out. But I forgot who didn't have the instructions with the kit, lol.

   Likely not a big deal; I seldom built models by using them anyhow, but they are nice if an issue rears and kicks.

Either way you'll know when I do, thank you.

   I have to complete it with photos and steps in a post for the forum, just to uphold part of the bargain, (Oh, darnit ) If you folks would like a "heads up" when I post, just say so. In fact, another Rivarossi or two, all in one thread would be awsomI, if you want to add something...or keep this one going.

I have two CJ 4-6-0 kits....both have plastic wheels like the IHB 0-8-0. The 4-4-0 kits DID include metal wheels but not the motor. Cool kits....wish all the parts were still made....they were easy to convert to 3r.

ADRIATIC,

I did see the thread, Just so you know the Casey Jones Kit has 3 sheet of instructions, and there are instructions for the motorizing kit in there somewhere also! I hope you enjoy the build.

Interesting link to the 1972 catalog. I wonder if those Santa Fe coaches were made? I have not seen them in any train shows here in the northeast.

I got it, 4 sheets of instructions and a motor kit parts list. English,German, French and Italian versions. I'll follow up more after I download updates. I loose text after each program finishes.

I have two of those kits that are new.  I also have a drive/power kit and they will go for sale after York.

Cool I am glad you got it! ENJOY!

I'd like to find a set of these two 0-8-0 kits of my own, someday. 

You can count on it Mike! Thanks again,& again,& again.

Oh man...Your killing me Marty. I already double head my Generals; this could get interesting as I planned on running them at the same time as an "era" thing.

Do these flanges stand a chance on Super O, or will I be hand laying some 2rail?  Railing an axle, they seem under gauge on tube and SO, lots of wiggle room.(Euro O is slightly different from American O if I recall. I forgotten by how much, but I know it differs, or used to anyhow.

This has nothing to do with Mike, he packs as expected:

An envelope failed en route and a rod spacer found a crack and fell out. No big deal. Finding a washer/ spacer should do the trick, but the original spacer is stainless. I'm going to raid a guy's HO junk box and hope I find something. It ironically was the largest of them that found a gap in the well sealed shipping box. But still, it's only 4.5mm od X 2.55 mm i.d. X .46mm thick (.177 X .1 X .018 inches -ish)

A few others that are way more critical  got stuck to the tape right near the dented corner of the shipper, which had caused a very small gap. I dissected the box; no luck

I found it! And an extra thin spacer too unless I missed something in the instructions.  It was between the front door and where I opened the box up. The dog, "Puppy" (too interested in anything I do) tried licking it up while I grabbed my parts box, but had bad aim and missed it, so I'm set.

I'm having image queued lock up, this may take a few posts to get rolling on building mine and posting, so here's some box art. I think it's pretty cool.

Ah ha. Liking a post  brought the full composer up again, lol.

The other one like this in the attachments is  the top and should be easier to see

The instructions art is great too.

Ok, Trainnut is going to graciously host this Rivarossi party while I build.

I started a trial assembly, but decided to work on the tender first to get used to working with this plastic. It's a hard shiney black styrene similar in look to a brand new post war tender. There is little flash, even at the flow holes. I'm tempted to not paint it, but we'll see how it looks, and how I feel about things later. The fit is pretty good. Cornections for the pieces have a series of 2 small teats here and there at the corners that rest crossed together and once filled with glued should make for good strong anchor points. I'll use up some ancient Kmart brand tube of styrene glue from the 70s. I saved a few tubes for its quality, but this should fittingly finish off the last tube.

Here is the instructions header and parts list for the motor kit before I get rolling. Good advice is listed. These are pretty good instructions from what I see off fhand. Red in diagrams are from the electric kit, and black is the model kit. I'd label the bags with a sharpie and not mix things as placement in bags, and count on screws is a puzzle that should sort itself as you go. EG. #32 &#50 are nearly the same screw. But some are printed red and some black, and the correct screw number can be found in both bags, and each bag holds a different. Amount, so it's a counting juggle on totals, and totals let bag to id them. (I have extras and am going to cheat)) Had I realized this, I would have created a key list, but too late.

Step 9- the trucks

This is where I began, and right away ran into an issue, so I'm glad that I did start here, it gives me time to work on it before the loco is done.IIl post the text next post, this is a late addition to a long post.

Two of the tender axel's were lost in shipping; part of that envelope splitting open. It shouldn't be too hard to fab them if I cant find more

The tips step has a 1.13mm(.045") dia. shaft, and each step is about 3.85mm(.15")long. The thick portion 1.95mm(.075) dia. for 37.95mm(1.48) step to step, with a total length at 45.8mm(1.8") tip to tip. Any ideas let me know. I'll use the two I do have have, one on each truck for now.

One wheel set finger pressed together, but the other needed a vice to press one of the wheels,, but barely. The wheels have cooling fins and do look great imo.

The parts. There is a lionel knuckle for comparison by that GIGANTIC copy of the old school HO type the kit includes, and a toy coupler I'll use till I locate a plastic dummy lobster claw or a Kd version that works with lobster claws. There is a scale coupler and gear box that body mounts by snapping in place that is  included too. It looks easy to swap systems at a whim; nice

The pins are for ballast plates in the tender

.

That HO-ish coupler could be heated/bent/trimmed to work in a pinch, I bet.

Not much side to side swing on the stock parts. There is a cast ridge that locks the hO ish one in place. File that off and it would center by spring action. The draw bar has notches that severely limit is swing. It looks like it swings enough for 031 curves, but I will take some of the limiting plastic off with a dremel just in case it rides tubular ok, it will be set for 0-27 too.

(Edit: no trimming needed for the tender to take an 0-27 turn behind a General, but this AHM 4-6-0 engine is 0-36 minimum )

.

One truck had some flash at the arrow to remove from the pocket. But others were perfect. The trucks s screw together, no glue needed . Its side frame screws being correct is a bit of a puzzle having to do with screw counts supplied in each bag, from each kit. I'm ignoring that puzzle and using the longest with pointed ends because of a two thread advantage over the self tappers, which I ran in first for the cutting action, then swapped in the longer. If I feel the need  for longer ones again later for the intended use, I have some longer ones I'm sure.

To be continued........

Adriatic

Thanks for sharing, but only 1 of your photos is showing in that last post

Bob

I see them all in the post, but only one in attachments. The first ones were there but disappeared. I love how Android and Firefox never works..... And folks complained about Internet explorer, I'll attempt again, but there was literally hours in uploading.

If you "paste" in pictures, you can see them on your device but no one else can see them.  You have 2 options:

1.  use the Add attachments link

2.  upload them to a photo sharing site, then copy the url. Back in the forum click the photo icon (it looks like a little mountain) and paste in the url.

The second option gives you more control when mixing pictures and text.  The first option can be quirky (when using my iPad) unless you upload all the pictures then add the text.

Thank but I was using the attachment tool with FF, on Android, which needs an add-on to trick id to tablet, and request of desktop to even get a composer with the attachment tool and "format command header" vs a text only version. And this works better than the last android device! Copy paste in android doesn't work well here either, but/and the menu for copy paste constantly comes up too. All photos were done and showing normally before I hit post. Third device third OS since July , including windows, different providers, and I still can't go a week without issues on attachment's.

I can almost only link photos from my "bucket" embedding fails even more often. This isn't rooted and has few apps added, all inactive when I post, cache cleared for each session.

I'm going to try an edit, but it will take a day or so to reload them, one at a time, one edit for each shot. Only one for now as a test too.

Attachment tool won't work in edit mode either......time for a site tech forum post.

Wonderful art work posted up above. IMHO, those art items are worth collecting for that reason!!

Yes they are! I almost told Mike to keep the box and ship as small as he could,  but I gave in to my inner graphics love and told him if the expense wasn't bad,  ship it.  I gave the OK to cut it some, but that was the keyliner not really worrying too much.

Taking a break from editing photos in my gallery now, more comming later.

Thought went into this package, not just a slap and sell job. The whole of the graphic design is great. From box art to instructions on  gloss paper, it screams quality and pride. Even the separation partition is a yellow clone of the Casey Jones frame seen here.

Some missed views of the. Instructions

Above  you can see the  screws are hardly different. Any combo would likely work. Notice each part is numbered ON the part as well as the tree.

The worst washer,  used where it is most likely to be replaced later, the coupler.

As you can see,  these are done here. I have moved one axle to the  other truck just for sitting level till I manage axles to replace "Zip" the mailman folly. (remember Zip?)

Anyone know what type of truck this is?

The scale coupler & box,  completed.

And since I showed the pins, the ballast weights for inside the tender body,  which is next.

I'm going to focus on some parts photos to get em done for the most part. The Ruby box holds the electric kit motor, balast for Loco (bar) & tender, and envelopes of small stuff

.

If the small stuff is still in the envelope anyhow.  Look for tiny strays.

Don't forget to label the envelopes!

Continued..... (queued pics are stuck again, posting & refreshing)

Adriatic posted:

Anyone know what type of truck this is?

Fox trucks.  Yoder will be importing new brass ones soon,

The tender trucks are Fox trucks.  At one time, this tender was just about the only source of them in O scale.

I spent a long time hunting for a picture of those trucks but lady luck just giggled at me,  Thanks for the ID and source too,  both of you. I think I knew that as a kid and had been searching hoping it would bring a cool memory back to the forefront One of those forgotten tidbits I had picked up from Gramps. Seem to recall they were brass on an early electronic chuffing tender he had, old already by the 70s.(german name... Began with an O.??  ) The heavy duty look always appealed to me and they have a unique look to boot.

A few more parts, just to give an idea whats included.. I was always very curious about these kits. Had I seen a kit opened, I would have had one long ago.

This is the other bag to label (below) to figure out the screw puzzle. Also, the loose parts from the split envelope, kept in plastic trays now. There is a small wrench included. Remeber, in the 70s, use of metric hardware wasnt quite as wide spread like it is today, especially in America, fewer had metric tools. Im betting this is a metric wrench, or possibly even unique, made special for a scale hex head. When I get to the bolts, I'll measure them with a caliper to see.

All the tiny brass still shines

and the little 12v motors magnets can be felt easily by spinning it, sort of like a stepper motor. Im curious how many poles it has.

And a shot of the tenders big parts since I accidentally loaded it, lol

Ok, "time to "mash" some tender parts"

(what? read the instructions )

The only thing worth noting is not to be hasty and add the section with the coal pile till the rest of the body is ready.

The ballast plates and pins aren't shown again, but I will use a dab of silicone between each plate, and a thin smear on the bottom of the stack and on top of it, just around the pin's holes to prevent rattles and lessen chance of impacts breaking something. I'll be letting it cure before adding it to the floor inside the tender, and glueing the pins in place.

These first six parts fit well enough, but the assembly is rickity without the rubberbands. This is a dry fitting, no glue. If glueing brings up anything worth mentioning, I will.

The front slips into place easily enough, nothing unsightly.

Tank covers pop right in

Front frame too; never removed a band.

Fill hatch went on with a slight press, and stays put, even without glue.

There was no flash to remove. Just a few sprue connections to clean up.

Looks like its coming together just fine, I hope your having fun! I love the updates!

Somewhat disorganized, but I've never done this before, didnt plan, and am just winging it. It's keeping me from building it "overnight" though. A good thing; I'd need another before my wallet was really ready, lol...I had a drainpipe's nipple break. Still trying to figure out a good layout use for the impressive "Spray-seal" I used for a temp fix while waiting on help for a week. It worked so well I think there has to be a train use too.

(That's a hint to put your thinking caps on folks.)

Expect a letter by next weekend Mike. I'm looking at something of interest for you again too. Hopefully there will be another box after it vs just two letters. It's all hinging on a ride at the right time, just like last time. Static, I know; but did you ever put a hitch on that MoW truck? Hi-rail the trailer?

Hi Adriatic, I'm glad your leak is holding, and I agree with you I am sure the spray flexseal will work somewhere on a train layout. No, no hitch as of yet, I got side tracked building a lift for a Atlas Pratt bridge I bought on here. That has been taking me awhile, that and DR. appointments. I hope to get back to that soon as I am almost done with the lift for the bridge. I just need to pick up a gas cyclinder to slow the lowering down. I will post some pictures on here soon. I look forward to your letters, I am sure there is some great stories in them.

No up? Google Bimba phnumatic.

I'm waiting till last and finishing the engine to apply the brass fittings and rails.

Done, it weighs about 9 1/2oz, 250grams. I have at least six lighter and all have at least some weight added, so its no ultra light like you may expect.

(Edit*-the engine requires 0-36)

*And it runs on 027 no problem.  The.flanges are smaller than Lionel's but not exact scale; its made to operate well instead. I ended up raiding the ancient button box and haystack of needles, where i came up with two stainless steel hat pins to clip so I have a axles. Later I'll need to line the wheel hubs with brass tube. I gave it a test behind a general using a wire scrap coupling and pulled three cars

I just gooped glue over the pegs to encapsulate them and set the walls and top first.

Made sure the holes for the brass rail stand offs lined up and that seams sat even.

Catching up on my current events while it dries.  Lol.   A vintage newspaper special I saved.

Dry now, I have a solid shell and chassis. I reinforced the shell further inside the shell, with a caulk-like bead of glue along the top and side seams running between corners. And my seams turn out well enough, but there is a gap at the coal pile and floor. Fishing the bottom into the shell to be glued and clamped will take four clamps to close all gaps, and seat fully, as the frame has an ever so slight warp to it. It would also seal off the tender forever. So, not knowing if electronics might be installed someday either. I chose to modify it with four screws to hold the shell on, and draw the gap at the coal pile closed. It worked , easily pulling it closed . or shown).

This is the gap before though

Screws ended up on the other side of the beam, closer to the ends but I'm going to add two more here just for overkill.

That toy coupler sits way to low and actually rubs the axle too, but it worked on my elevated line no problem, so it should be great once trimmed and bent with heat. Next to the generals tender for comparing size.

I had to widen the gap cabs gap with excess wire on the tempory rig. Close enough? Hope so, because I'm keeping about there.

Done enough to run so the loco is next before I go further on this.