Reset code for 6-28009 4-6-4 Hudson

Why not tell us the exact product ID, makes it easier for us to help you.

Ummm, the product code is in the topic title.  

I think the manual has a typo. 

It won't hurt to hit the wrong reset.  Only helps when you hit the right reset.   Use 34.

Since there is no 43 I would use the 34. 

Yes it is the Lionel 6-28009. It was bought in 1999. I am using it in command mode with a cab1 controller. I originally bought this for my father who passed away in 2012. The smoke unit worked briefly for him and then stopped working. When I took it at Christmas 2017 and took it home I was surprised that it worked. It worked for a year and then stopped. I found I did not have the voltage turned all the was up on my zw. After I turned it up it worked again. After a few days I turned it off with Aux1+8. When I tried to turn it back (Aux1+9) on it didn’t work again. I figured I would try a reset but saw 34 in the table above and 43 in my manual. I also saw a discussion on this topic in this forum from 2013 but I was hoping that there was some more recent information.

Well, in looking at the parts breakdown for this locomotive, I'd be using AUX1/4 as the programming code.  That's the code for a steamer with smoke, I suspect the two digit code is incorrect.

Thank you to everyone. I will wait a couple of days. If the smoke doesn’t come on by then, I will try out your suggestions until  one of them works. Of course there is no guarantee any reset will work but I hope at least one of them will.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, in looking at the parts breakdown for this locomotive, I'd be using AUX1/4 as the programming code.  That's the code for a steamer with smoke, I suspect the two digit code is incorrect.

Do not be so sure.  There are more variations on this loco type.  I have several, C06/C07/C08 DCDR/E-units, etc...

He is correct that the instructions say 43 despite the 34 in the diagram.  I have done both and it still works.  Make sure your battery is good in remote.  Make sure you have controls over all the other functions like coupler, light toggle.  Try a reset.  Start with 4 see if it work.  But no problem normally using 34 or 43.  G

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, in looking at the parts breakdown for this locomotive, I'd be using AUX1/4 as the programming code.  That's the code for a steamer with smoke, I suspect the two digit code is incorrect.

The 34 code is indeed correct. 43 is the same thing. But it's important to get the 3 in there.

TRW

By the way this is one of those area I don't think anyone really knows.  But some old tech notes stated 0 invert Serial data, 7 Keeps serial data on in conventional, 3 disables serial data in conventional but keeps chuff on.  ORDER DOES NOT Matter so 34 = 43.  Pulled that out from the way back machine.  G

GGG posted:

By the way this is one of those area I don't think anyone really knows.  But some old tech notes stated 0 invert Serial data, 7 Keeps serial data on in conventional, 3 disables serial data in conventional but keeps chuff on.  ORDER DOES NOT Matter so 34 = 43.  Pulled that out from the way back machine.  G

Correct. The OP's loco has one of those funky modular 103 e-units for a motor driver/conventional reverse unit, AND an R2LC for TMCC. The "3" tells the R2LC to stand-down in conventional mode, and let the 103 do its thing.

TRW

Wow, great information. All other functions are working fine. I can see the leds on the TPC and Controller flash when I hit the 9 but I will put new batteries in the cab1 anyway. I will try the reset this weekend and post results.

Thank you for your help!. 

PaperTRW posted:

GGG posted:

By the way this is one of those area I don't think anyone really knows.  But some old tech notes stated 0 invert Serial data, 7 Keeps serial data on in conventional, 3 disables serial data in conventional but keeps chuff on.  ORDER DOES NOT Matter so 34 = 43.  Pulled that out from the way back machine.  G

Correct. The OP's loco has one of those funky modular 103 e-units for a motor driver/conventional reverse unit, AND an R2LC for TMCC. The "3" tells the R2LC to stand-down in conventional mode, and let the 103 do its thing.

TRW

Now that is the best new information I had heard about the 103E unit engines.  I always thought it was sound related.  Of the engines I have some have DCDR instead of the103E(one does), therefore the 4, 34, 43 all work on my DCDR types.  They were the ones I converted to CCM.  Unfortunately the construct and lack of DCDR did not allow that with the 103E type.  G

I always thought the code was related to the serial data as well.  I didn't realize you ever had the 103E and the R2LC installed at the same time.

I'm with John on this one. I  thought the 103E e-unit module was used in the TMCC Upgradable engines. Pull the 103E and install the R2LC. Maybe we're not all on the same page here. 

That was the 104E e-unit models.  In that case you had a DCDR and the 104E was the conventional control of the DCDR.  You replaced it with the R2LC.  If you read the TMCC Upgrade instruction with the kit, that is what you did UNLESS you had the early upgradeable Hudsons and Pacifics.  In that case you had no DCDR.  Instead you had the 103E unit and an open spot on the Mother board to ADD the R2LC.  Notice one board has Motor Transistors and one does not. G

I did reset the engine using 43 as the manual said. There is no change in performance. Possibly it is coincidence that it stopped smoking just after I turned it off and then tried to turn it on again. I did add 6 drops of fluid while it was off. All other command functions are working fine. Maybe I can use my multimeter as an ammeter to see if the current changes when I turn off the smoke and turn it on again. I notice that the headlight dims momentarily when I turn the smoke unit off (aux1-8) and when I turn it on (aux1-9) but does not dim with aux1-9 when it should already be on. Possibly an indication that the commands are actually working.

I remembered that my multimeter has a thermocouple so I can measure temperature. Sticking it in down near the heating element I only saw a temperature increase of 4 degrees Fahrenheit. Doing the same with a postwar 2065 that I converted to liquid smoke, the temperature immediately rose through the 80s then the 90s (starting at 66). So, for whatever reason the element is not getting hot.

I forgot about the combo with the 103E and R2LC, but you're right.

Is your smoke switch on?  If kills power even in TMCC mode. If mechanical smoke (pretty sure it is) maybe element failed when fluid added.  Time to open it up if not a switch issues.   G

Yes, I agree. The switch is on but it could be bad too. The smoke did not work for a long time when my father had the engine. Then for no apparent reason it started working after he passed away and I took the engine ( I bought if for him around 1999 or 2000)) and worked for about a year. I guess checking the switch will be first. I tried turning it off and back on but it didn’t help. At least I now know the reset number (thanks to you, gunrunnerjohn, and TRW) and have a better understanding of the electronics. The wiring diagram in supplement 44 is pretty good too. I hope it is either the mechanical switch or a bad solder joint that I can get too easily.

Not hard to work on.  Good luck. G

Well, I opened it up and checked the on-off switch and it seems to be fine, no continuity between the terminals when off and no resistance when on. I then checked the resistance from the switch terminal with the blue wire that goes to the smoke element to the end of the smoke element attached to ground. I consistently get 2 ohms whether I have the switch on or off. I was expecting to get 27  like I get across a spare smoke resistor that I have. When I try a continuity check from the same switch terminal to the end of the smoke element  I get no continuity despite the 2 ohm reading. I don’t understand that. I am wondering if it indicates a short somewhere along the blue wire from the switch to the smoke element?

Just noticed the little k in front of the ohms. Not used to these meters that auto scale. My face is red but I feel that I understand now.

New smoke element is installed and it is working. Couldn’t fit new cap on, it is very slightly bigger in diameter than original but I was able to use the old one. Thank you to everyone who replied.