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When I'm doing an upgrade, I frequently come across some pretty ugly smoke PCB's.  Previously, I had created a replacement PCB for the standard rectangular smoke unit, detailed in this thread: DIY Rectangular Smoke Unit Replacement PCB.  However, the Smart Smoke Unit has a different diecast 2-piece case, so that PCB didn't work for a direct replacement.  In the last two months, I've run across three of these smoke units where the PCB was toast, so I had to replace them.  Given the spotty availability of the older TMCC stuff, I figure it's only a matter of time before I can't get these PCB's anymore.

In a preemptive strike, I simply am creating a replacement for upgrades.  I dispensed with the screw terminals for attaching the smoke resistor, never did like those as they come loose, develop high resistance, and that destroys the pads they attach to, thus killing the PCB!  Even if they don't kill the PCB, the smoke performance goes down hill when they come loose and necessitates opening up the locomotive to tighten them.  The screws are also a bit of a PITA to deal with when replacing the smoke resistor.  Finally, when I'm installing the Super-Chuffer, I don't need all the extra stuff on the smart smoke PCB, the Super-Chuffer does all those functions and more.  I also wired the fan and heater connections to one connector making the removal/replacement of the smoke unit a little cleaner and easier.

I retained a simple power supply circuit for the fan to allow this to be used for diesel applications.  To use the power supply for diesel fan, jumper J3 is installed to supply a power ground.  For steam, I simply leave the power supply components off as the Super-Chuffer provides smoke fan power.  The board is designed to mate to the 2-piece diecast smoke fluid reservoir and fan chamber.

Smart Smoke Replacement N1 3DSmart Smoke Replacement N2 3DSmart Smoke Replacement Schematic

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  • Smart Smoke Replacement N1 3D
  • Smart Smoke Replacement N2 3D
  • Smart Smoke Replacement Schematic
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You can get as few or as many blank PCB's as you like.  I won't post the Gerber files until I get a sample back and verify all my measurements were accurate and the PCB fits properly and works well.  I don't want to have people ordering boards that won't work.

Once the design is verified, I'll probably order a bunch of PCB's and I usually make them available for a couple bucks.  For small quantities I've sent them in first class envelopes to keep the cost down.

When the Gerber files are ready, you just send the PCB house the ZIP file and specify some stuff like color, board thickness, etc. to get the boards fabricated.

When I'm doing an upgrade, I frequently come across some pretty ugly smoke PCB's.  Previously, I had created a replacement PCB for the standard rectangular smoke unit, detailed in this thread: DIY Rectangular Smoke Unit Replacement PCB.  However, the Smart Smoke Unit has a different diecast 2-piece case, so that PCB didn't work for a direct replacement.  In the last two months, I've run across three of these smoke units where the PCB was toast, so I had to replace them.  Given the spotty availability of the older TMCC stuff, I figure it's only a matter of time before I can't get these PCB's anymore.

In a preemptive strike, I simply am creating a replacement for upgrades.  I dispensed with the screw terminals for attaching the smoke resistor, never did like those as they come loose, develop high resistance, and that destroys the pads they attach to, thus killing the PCB!  Even if they don't kill the PCB, the smoke performance goes down hill when they come loose and necessitates opening up the locomotive to tighten them.  The screws are also a bit of a PITA to deal with when replacing the smoke resistor.  Finally, when I'm installing the Super-Chuffer, I don't need all the extra stuff on the smart smoke PCB, the Super-Chuffer does all those functions and more.  I also wired the fan and heater connections to one connector making the removal/replacement of the smoke unit a little cleaner and easier.

I retained a simple power supply circuit for the fan to allow this to be used for diesel applications.  To use the power supply for diesel fan, jumper J3 is installed to supply a power ground.  For steam, I simply leave the power supply components off as the Super-Chuffer provides smoke fan power.  The board is designed to mate to the 2-piece diecast smoke fluid reservoir and fan chamber.

Smart Smoke Replacement N1 3DSmart Smoke Replacement N2 3DSmart Smoke Replacement Schematic

John, I have a question for you. What smoke unit would you retrofit into a Lionel scale turbine that at one point had seuth smoke units? Keep in mind space is is that a premium at the front of this locomotive

@ThatGuy posted:

John, I have a question for you. What smoke unit would you retrofit into a Lionel scale turbine that at one point had seuth smoke units? Keep in mind space is is that a premium at the front of this locomotive

The turbine is an interesting case as you need to fabricate a funnel for the four stacks.  I believe that one has four Seuthe smoke units, right?  I did 3rd Rail S2 Turbine, and I used the MTH steam smoke unit with the short posts.  The hardest part was doing the funnel, nowadays I'd get it 3D printed.  Here's the smoke funnel from the Legacy version, probably a good place to start.

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  • mceclip0

The turbine is an interesting case as you need to fabricate a funnel for the four stacks.  I believe that one has four Seuthe smoke units, right?  I did 3rd Rail S2 Turbine, and I used the MTH steam smoke unit with the short posts.  The hardest part was doing the funnel, nowadays I'd get it 3D printed.  Here's the smoke funnel from the Legacy version, probably a good place to start.

Thanks john

@Ron_S posted:

John,

I am contemplating making a early Premier PS1 Northern a ERR with SC CG, what smoke unit would be best to replace the seuthe smoke unit in that locomotive?

Thanks

For use with John’s chuff stuff, the easiest swap would be a PS2 smoke unit with the bracket like this one pictured. ( available at mthpartsandsales.com ) ……very little mods to make this unit fit and work with TMCC,…..first, it’s a divorced unit, so the motor & heater are separately wired. Change the resistors to a single resistor with a  value rated for TMCC, 20-27 ohm, ….wire the the smoke element to the ERR board, and the fan motor to John’s chuff stuff……more than likely, beings your model is old enough that it has a Seuthe, you’ll need to drill and tap one hole in the bottom of the shell for a 4-40 screw….

Pat IMG_7928

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To add to what Pat says, I normally use the MTH smoke unit pictured.  I actually usually end up doing my own sheet metal for the mount since every job is a bit different.  Also, I buy the AA-0000070 smoke unit as I want the threaded AA-0000102 brass cup.  I remove the brass cup and solder the stack extension brass tubing to it.  Soldering to one that's fixed to the PCB frequently breaks the bond between the brass cup and the PCB.

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