Adapting Kadee coupler to my Hi-Rail MTH Premier J

Pretty much as you said it. The coupler will unplug somewhere inside the tender. Thats cleaner than just cutting wires.  Even if they dont have a kadee mount, they've done you a favor and given you 2 holes in the floor to mount something to, so it looks like its a no-drill modification. Just find the screws that thread in there (or tap them) and add your adapter plate from there.

Start with a 745 and see if it fits. Should have plenty of room to move it up and down to get the height correct. Sometimes you have to clip off the back of the box to make it clear the ear that the protocoupler mounts to (or cut the mount off the truck).

This is an easy job with a 3D printer, but is doable in styrene as well.

Some later Premier engines came with the Kadee mounting pad in the box, ….you might check in the box. …on your tender chassis, I see the mounting holes for the Kadee mount……I know we’re working on the parts for the web site for the J real soon,  so there may be some in the parts bins…..this is an example of the Kadee mount pad should look like, or something close to this example….

Pat

Thanks, I've been chatting with MTH parts via email.  Didn't find one in my engine box, they said that Hi-Rail versions of engines did not include them.  I need one with 23mm screw spacing.

@Boilermaker1 posted:

Pretty much as you said it. The coupler will unplug somewhere inside the tender. Thats cleaner than just cutting wires.  Even if they dont have a kadee mount, they've done you a favor and given you 2 holes in the floor to mount something to, so it looks like its a no-drill modification. Just find the screws that thread in there (or tap them) and add your adapter plate from there.

Start with a 745 and see if it fits. Should have plenty of room to move it up and down to get the height correct. Sometimes you have to clip off the back of the box to make it clear the ear that the protocoupler mounts to (or cut the mount off the truck).

This is an easy job with a 3D printer, but is doable in styrene as well.

Thank you!  I'll be sure to just unplug the protocoupler, much preferred!  Will start with the 745, thanks!

I bought a handful of these Weaver ones at a show a few years ago. If you think it will work. Hit my e mail and I’ll get a couple out to you.

I’m not sure if the offset is going to be long enough looking at your pic. . The Factory holes seem to be in a ways. I can’t think of the Kadee number off hand. They do  a longer shanked coupler that uses a standard size box. It’s mostly used on passenger cars.  If the stock Kadee mounts under the tender to much. The longer version may work.
I usually make my own mounts out of brass. Usually in a T shape. Some drilling, tapping and soldering are involved.  If your mounting to the frame. Most cases you will need to create an offset to clear the tenders shell.

@Dave_C posted:

I bought a handful of these Weaver ones at a show a few years ago. If you think it will work. Hit my e mail and I’ll get a couple out to you.

I’m not sure if the offset is going to be long enough looking at your pic. . The Factory holes seem to be in a ways. I can’t think of the Kadee number off hand. They do  a longer shanked coupler that uses a standard size box. It’s mostly used on passenger cars.  If the stock Kadee mounts under the tender to much. The longer version may work.
I usually make my own mounts out of brass. Usually in a T shape. Some drilling, tapping and soldering are involved.  If your mounting to the frame. Most cases you will need to create an offset to clear the tenders shell.

Thank you, unfortunately I think you are correct in that the Weaver one will work.  I think I'll probably end up having to make some similar to yours!

These pics. may be of more help. The 23mm is a go. It’s just a matter of figuring out how far away from the factory mounting holes you need for the coupler to look correct as to where it sits.

If you think it might work. Just send me your address and I can send you what you need.

@Dave_C posted:

These pics. may be of more help. The 23mm is a go. It’s just a matter of figuring out how far away from the factory mounting holes you need for the coupler to look correct as to where it sits.

If you think it might work. Just send me your address and I can send you what you need.

Email sent, thank you!

Thank you. I also found this useful!