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Two or three years ago I purchased a couple of Ameri-Towne full kits (#825 Pedicini's Bakery and #874 Granato's Grocery) and an additional building front to be used on my Happy Valley Railroad layout. The full kits have just the right footprint, 6 x 6 inches, to fit one of the corners and will be placed on a riser made from insulation foam. My plan is to add some interior details and LED lighting.

I have plenty of experience with plastic models and have built structure kits by Lionel and Atlas, but these will be my first Ameri-Towne projects. I thought it would be entertaining (and hopefully educational) to share my progress with the forum. Comments and suggestions invited!

Out of the box, the parts for these kits are seriously solid, with thick styrene walls and nicely rendered detail. The first step is to wash them with warm soapy water to remove the mold release agent. This is essential. The plastic was literally so slick that tape would not adhere to it—which means that paint would not adhere either. Secondly, nearly all of the walls were noticeably warped, especially the 3-story walls, but there’s an easy fix for this. Simply boil a few inches of water in a large skillet and dip a warped wall in it for about 10 seconds. Pull the wall out with a pair of tongs and gently bend the plastic (which has just slightly softened but is not hot enough to burn your fingers), in the opposite direction of the warp. It was a quick process, and all of the wall sections sat perfectly flat on my countertop. For the record, I do NOT recommend the method I’ve seen posted on OGR about heating warped walls in an oven. Who knows what sort of toxic fumes that might give off?

Also for the record, note that the bottle of wine on my countertop is capped: I was NOT drinking on the job! 🤣

In the next installment I’ll cover initial assembly. Let’s build!



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Last edited by BruceG
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Well, as I see it, you can certainly document your project step-by-step here on the forum. That would be perfectly fine. OR, you might consider documenting it step-by-step for the magazine, which would earn you $200 for your efforts. I am always in need of nicely done "how-to-do-it" articles, large and small, and it's a pretty simple matter to just send everything to me as email attachments (hi-res photos, of course) once the project is completed.

One real advantage of having things published in the magazine (print and digital) is that they have an extremely long lifetime. Presented online in the vast and ever-changing expanse of cyberspace forums, they are rather quickly "lost" in the massive amount of new information that is posted daily, even though they are still available from a technical/digital standpoint.

Well, as I see it, you can certainly document your project step-by-step here on the forum. That would be perfectly fine. OR, you might consider documenting it step-by-step for the magazine, which would earn you $200 for your efforts. I am always in need of nicely done "how-to-do-it" articles, large and small, and it's a pretty simple matter to just send everything to me as email attachments (hi-res photos, of course) once the project is completed.

One real advantage of having things published in the magazine (print and digital) is that they have an extremely long lifetime. Presented online in the vast and ever-changing expanse of cyberspace forums, they are rather quickly "lost" in the massive amount of new information that is posted daily, even though they are still available from a technical/digital standpoint.

Happy to do that, Allan. I'll save all the photos in a folder and condense the step-by-step narratives once the kits are completed, at which time I'll fire everything off to you. You also had suggested an article related to my post (two years ago, to my embarrassment) about my "rock cut" backdrop. I still need to submit that!

The exterior lights on the building are from Evan Designs. I love their products and they are great to deal with.

Since you can't see the interior lights, I made them with LED's and a hood fashioned from a drywall cup washer. Flip the washer upside down and run a screw through into a piece of 2x4. The washer inverts and you have instant lamp shades. I used a piece of styrene tube for the base.

2020-03-21 13.31.412020-03-21 13.45.27

          Underside of the roof          I made a floor for between the two levels

2020-03-26 20.48.45

These were cool white LED's so I toned them down with some diluted yellow acrylic paint.

2020-04-05 18.08.462020-04-05 18.09.12

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  • 2020-03-21 13.45.27
  • 2020-03-26 20.48.45
  • 2020-04-05 18.08.46
  • 2020-04-05 18.09.12
@RSJB18 posted:

The exterior lights on the building are from Evan Designs. I love their products and they are great to deal with.

Since you can't see the interior lights, I made them with LED's and a hood fashioned from a drywall cup washer. Flip the washer upside down and run a screw through into a piece of 2x4. The washer inverts and you have instant lamp shades. I used a piece of styrene tube for the base.

2020-03-21 13.31.412020-03-21 13.45.27

          Underside of the roof          I made a floor for between the two levels

2020-03-26 20.48.45

These were cool white LED's so I toned them down with some diluted yellow acrylic paint.

2020-04-05 18.08.462020-04-05 18.09.12

Making shades out of washers is a great idea. Did a little digging, and there are many sizes. Do you recall what size you used?

After cleaning and straightening the wall sections and detail pieces, I primed everything with a light coat of good 'ol Rust-oleum gray primer. Next, I decided to experiment on one rear wall piece using a technique I learned from building those classic Revell ship model kits. The deck detail was always raised, and by first painting the deck black, followed by a coat of tan (wood color), then very lightly sanding the whole deck, the raised details would be revealed. To the naked eye, they looked like joints in the planking. My model of the yacht America is an example.

I figured the same theory would apply to brick wall detail, so I merely sanded the walls with a flat block sander--around 200 grit. This cut through the primer on the brick surface but didn't touch the gray in the mortar joints. After a quick wipe down, I sprayed on a coat of flat clear.

Here's the result at this point. To me it looks pretty realistic, and it was achieved without any messy washes or dry brushing. I plan to assemble the outer walls of one building to see if the total effect still looks good. One interesting observation: there's a faint pattern of staggered squares in the plain brick wall sections when viewed at certain angles, evidently from the way the molds were fashioned.



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  • 20211011_164954: Revell yacht America, 1/50 scale
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Last edited by BruceG

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