American Models Six Wheel Heavyweight Passenger Trucks

There should be a solid "snap" heard when reassembling the trucks. The side frames latch is on both side if the center wheel set.

If one of the latches is damaged, there's no real option but a new truck.

Rusty

I had the same problem. Some AM truck assemblies warp over time. Unsure if this issue has been resolved. I ordered new trucks and replaced the warped ones and have had no more problems.

Thanks guys. Is it just a problem with the 6 wheel trucks or are the 4 wheel trucks similarly afflicted?

It can be hit and miss.  The AM passenger truck uses the same method of side frame clips as Pacific Rail Shops used on their freight trucks.  I've had one or two of those go bad on me.

Rusty

Fast Tracks makes replacement trucks for the AM 6 wheel passenger cars: http://themodelrailwayshow.com/cn1950s/?p=6154

I have 18 of the AM heavyweight cars. All the 6 wheel trucks worked fine after I snapped them together. I did not care for the appearance of the 4 wheel trucks and some of them had problems with drooping couplers that snagged on turnouts. I was never able to completely solve that issue. I converted all the cars to 6 wheel trucks and now everything runs perfectly.

My sincere gratitude to all of you who have answered my newcomer questions these past 2 years without ever labeling them as "dumb." As someone who knew none of the terminology, brands, equipment, mechanics, electronics, it was and still is refreshing and encouraging that help was given so freely by so many and at the right level to someone who didn't know what he didn't know.

No question is ever dumb.

Greekchief posted:

No question is ever dumb.

With the possible exception of "Where did you lose it?"  Because if you know that, it wouldn't be lost.  Also "Can everyone hear me?"  Because if you can't hear it, you can't answer.  Finally, as I always told my students, the only REALLY dumb question is the one you never asked because then you'd never find out the answer.  (Presented with tongue firmly in cheek...)

And that's why we're here, Chuck!

Does anyone have a solution for the drooping couplers on the 4 wheel trucks?

I am hoping that there is an alternative metal coupler do use.

I replaced them all with 6 wheel trucks from American Models. No further problem.

Problem is that Reading used 4 wheel trucks and since it's not the trucks, but the coupler, I was hoping that someone had the solution.

American Models sells dummy scale passenger car couplers. If you do not need operating couplers between the cars these should solve the issue. For the car that connects to the engine there is also a matching scale coupler for the engine. Or the actuating lever can be cut off or heated and bent upwards. It will not reliable uncouple remotely (with an uncoupler) but it will connect to the engine and no longer snag on the turnouts. You could just cut off the bottom of the actuating lever on all the couplers if you want. They will stay coupled but then will not uncouple.

Francine posted:

Does anyone have a solution for the drooping couplers on the 4 wheel trucks?

I am hoping that there is an alternative metal coupler do use.

I am not familiar with the couplers on the 4 wheel passenger trucks but if as Tom suggested heating and bending, might you be able to heat the coupler shaft and bend it up?

Ray

The couplers on the American Models cars are made from Delrin.

As Francine has said, the problem is the talgo arm that connects to the trucks.  It seems hit-and-miss whether the arm is warped or not.  Even the scale cars (at least the early ones) had some warped talgo arms, I wound up replacing them with body-mounted Kadees on my scale heavyweights.

 I think if I were to try and correct the talgo arm, I would cut off the arm leaving about 3/8" on the coupler.  Replace the arm with a piece of brass stock or Evergreen channel and screw the coupler to the new arm.  It would be a trial and error project on the first ones.

Rusty

Hi all,

Thanks for the suggestions.  I am hesitant to heat with a heat gun because I don't know how far to bend them and what the break/melting point is.

I may have to use Rustys' method of changing to scale couplers with one knuckle to attach the the engine.

I made a half hearted attempt to bend the delrin arms on the couplers using a heat gun with no success. Someone with more patience and skill than I have might be successful. Since I prefer the look of the 6 wheel trucks that was an easy solution for me. It sure is nice to be able to back these cars through the turnouts in the passenger yard throat without any derailments.

Gentlemen , For coupler arm hanging down too low you need the tool that HO people use to bend to adjust their Kdee couplers . Squeeze & hold for a few seconds & the plastic will take the new bend or curvature.

 Bob Guckian

Francine,

I changed most of my Flyer style couplers to the scale sized ones.  Since I run passenger trains as a unit, I don't care if the couplers uncouple or not.  I've been able to bend the Delrin scale sized couplers quite a bit to correct any sag and align them better.   The Flyer ones can also be bent along the arm to raise them.  I've done it without breaking them.   But then I also have a small bag with all sorts of AM couplers.  American Models also has a few hints in their site(at least on their old site) that allows better performance.  

Dont be too afraid of breaking the arm.  The plastic is tough.   Just try a little at a time.