while I was greasing the gear boxes I discovered the drivers are spring loaded as I was moving drive wheels I noticed they gave way in a downward motion!
no mention of that I found on shipping box or on lionels web site.
did you notice it AlexM??
Originally Posted by cjack:
Originally Posted by ST PAUL:
" When I used to buy new Oldsmobiles, I often found bolts lying on the engine block from new...figured they were just manufacturing debris.
Alex..... I have looked all over on underside of BB and all screw holes are accounted for.
this is a small screw is 1/8" long x 1\16" wide and is a machine screw thread.
cjack...thanks for the good laugh.... it could very well be extra part.
care to explain the other part I found?
if you think 1950's it almost looks like a rail stanchion for a diesel switcher! but it is only a half inch long.
I'm impressed with the extra cab detail. the control area could use a lot more detail but it's a step up. I like the wood strips on the ceiling.
Originally Posted by ST PAUL:
Originally Posted by cjack:
Originally Posted by ST PAUL:
" When I used to buy new Oldsmobiles, I often found bolts lying on the engine block from new...figured they were just manufacturing debris.
Alex..... I have looked all over on underside of BB and all screw holes are accounted for.
this is a small screw is 1/8" long x 1\16" wide and is a machine screw thread.
cjack...thanks for the good laugh.... it could very well be extra part.
care to explain the other part I found?
if you think 1950's it almost looks like a rail stanchion for a diesel switcher! but it is only a half inch long.
That wire sure looks like something that had a chain on it...like a coupler bar.
Alex: I assume you have previously disassembled the VL Hudson. 
If so, two questions:
Does the Hudson also have a Pittmann motor?
Does the Hudson tender also have TWO "Fatboy" speakers with baffle enclosures?
Art, you don't have to take one apart to get that info. Just check out Lionel Replacement parts. It has a buhler motor and two baby Fatboys with an enclosure.
Pete
Originally Posted by ST PAUL:
...are the smoke units set to alternate puffs by factory setting?
The factory setting is the alternate puffs. If you want them to always fire in sync, like the real thing, you have to push AUX1 and 9 before sliding the PRG/RUN switch to RUN after setting the engine ID.
Originally Posted by Tinplate Art:
Alex: I assume you have previously disassembled the VL Hudson.
If so, two questions:
Does the Hudson also have a Pittmann motor?
Does the Hudson tender also have TWO "Fatboy" speakers with baffle enclosures?
Pete hit the nail on the head, it has a Buhler motor and two Fatboys
Alex
Originally Posted by ST PAUL:
while I was greasing the gear boxes I discovered the drivers are spring loaded as I was moving drive wheels I noticed they gave way in a downward motion!
no mention of that I found on shipping box or on lionels web site.
did you notice it AlexM??
I didn't notice, i will have to take a look later on
Thanks
Alex
THANKS to Pete and Alex! 
One more question:
Buhler (German) equal to Pittman (American) in overall quality??
Originally Posted by Tinplate Art:
One more question:
Buhler (German) equal to Pittman (American) in overall quality??
Something mechanical from Germany sounds like a "good thing". My 2010 PM Berk has a Buhler as well, its arguably the smoothest running steamer I own.
Heres a link to their website if your curious: http://www.buehlermotor.com/EN/Products
FWIW Rich has mentioned that he prefers the Canon brand motors that have been in recent legacy steamers to Pittman brand motors.
I'm guessing Lionel makes motor choices based on performance specs and price.
Rick:
Interesting observations!
Buhler motors were also used in the very high quality German-made (original) LGB.
Canon motors are also quality motors.
Originally Posted by F30MSport:
John,
I will also attempt your suggestions. Very interesting speculation on the heat sensitive LED, the symptoms seem to point as such (it only lights up after the unit has been running for some time).
If that is the case, what is remedy for this?
Thanks!
Michael
Replacement of the LED would be the fix. That center red LED is a 2mm ceramic one, those are readily available if needed, I keep them around.
Originally Posted by ST PAUL:
I have another post going but will post this picture here too. seems as my tender at rear just below hand grabs is either a paint issue or?
thought I would post it here so all others can check to see if a common issue or just mine.
My rear tender below the hand grabs has no flaws.
St.Paul,
This might be where that bar goes
Attachments
Images (2)
Alex... thank you that is exactly where it goes.
now seeing the small eye hook attaches to a very small rod how did it come detached?
Maybe someday way after warranty is off I will find where that screw goes!
seeing all is working as built I won't lose any sleep over it.
thanks again for the help.
have a Great New Year
now seeing the small eye hook attaches to a very small rod how did it come detached?
Maybe someday way after warranty is off I will find where that screw goes!
seeing all is working as built I won't lose any sleep over it.
thanks again for the help.
have a Great New Year
Originally Posted by RickO:
Originally Posted by Tinplate Art:
One more question:
Buhler (German) equal to Pittman (American) in overall quality??
Something mechanical from Germany sounds like a "good thing". My 2010 PM Berk has a Buhler as well, its arguably the smoothest running steamer I own.
Heres a link to their website if your curious: http://www.buehlermotor.com/EN/Products
FWIW Rich has mentioned that he prefers the Canon brand motors that have been in recent legacy steamers to Pittman brand motors.
I'm guessing Lionel makes motor choices based on performance specs and price.
Originally Posted by Tinplate Art:
Rick:
Interesting observations!
Buhler motors were also used in the very high quality German-made (original) LGB.
Canon motors are also quality motors.
Rick & Tinplate Art,
I don't remember the title of the thread, but the Pittman and Canon have been compared in detail. Wish I could remember it, there was a ton of great information.
I've been working on some projects and decided I'll try one of each: The Pittman (which I already have in a way because it powers some of the major manfs), the Canon, and the Buhler.
Another big factor will be the gear boxes ratios.
Nice Alex, Can you now trace each wire and document it on a diagram? 
G
Nice photo essay thanks for sharing. The beauty is in the features! What a lot of fun to operate. =)
I'm concerned for Spence- he has replied to my 2 rail posts in the past. Good guy!
I'm concerned for Spence- he has replied to my 2 rail posts in the past. Good guy!
Thanks guys for the nice comments and input.
GGG, With this engine it would take a month to trace all those wires LOL LOL
Alex
Why use all caps in the thread title?
Thx Alex---are we going to see this baby in a couple of weeks on the hi-railers layout ???
I hope so
PS
Loved your layout story
Joe S
Originally Posted by Pingman:
Why use all caps in the thread title?
A bit off topic, but i put "caps" in my thread title for the same reason's you put "caps" in your
signature on your posts.
Example
BEST WISHES TO YOU AND YOURS
FOR A JOYOUS AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR
Originally Posted by dorfj2:
Thx Alex---are we going to see this baby in a couple of weeks on the hi-railers layout ???
I hope so
PS
Loved your layout story
Joe S
Hi Joe,
Looking forward to seeing you at the NJ Hi-railers
Alex
Yes off topic
I never understood why people make a fuss over caps. Yes I know the so called reason.
But caps are easier to read and the printed word is all in so called caps.
As for the engine. I stated earlier on it is one great machine to run.
Happy New Year to all.
I 100% disagree. Maybe for you or even a few but studies have shown all CAPS are more difficult to read.
While titles and signatures are not an issue, paragraphs of capital letters are horrible to read. I like the caps in the title. It stands out. In paragraphs it hurts.
Originally Posted by Jim 1939:
Yes off topic
.
But caps are easier to read and the printed word is all in so called caps.
Originally Posted by Pingman:
Why use all caps in the thread title?
Because he was talking about the BIG BOY!
Originally Posted by Alex M:
Thanks guys for the nice comments and input.
GGG, With this engine it would take a month to trace all those wires LOL LOL
Alex
Some body has to do it, so does that mean it will be ready by August lets say!
Originally Posted by GGG:
Originally Posted by Alex M:
Thanks guys for the nice comments and input.
GGG, With this engine it would take a month to trace all those wires LOL LOL
Alex
Some body has to do it, so does that mean it will be ready by August lets say!
A friend of mine with DCS N gauge was surprised at all the wires.
Considering all the features it is not unrealistic. Does the N scale have a smoke unit or 3? G
Alex; 1st of all thank you. 2nd, whew you are courageous. I'd be scared stiff to open that engine.
After seeing Alex's pictures, I opened mine to fix the bad cab light. It's actually very easy to remove the hood, most of the stuff that needs maintenance is very accessible. The only area that you have to be careful with is the two tiny connectors up front for the lights, they have fine wires and don't have a lot of slack.
Wow! Alex is so good, his threads get links back to themselves!
Any truth to the fact for the Blow Down smoke to work, you must keep your finger pressed down on the button until the unit heats up? Just pushing the button and releasing it quickly will not work
Pat Byrne posted:Any truth to the fact for the Blow Down smoke to work, you must keep your finger pressed down on the button until the unit heats up? Just pushing the button and releasing it quickly will not work
I think that what you are referring to is the tip from Mike R. explained here:
https://ogrforum.com/...tip-from-mike-reagan
which is not quite the same thing as holding down the button although doing that might have the same effect.
Alex, you just really opened my eyes, I had no clue about all the (no pun intended here) bells and whistles, not to mention how fantastic that locomotive is. I was grumbling about the price being so high, now I fully understand why. It is very well worth the money. I'm totally amazed at all the work and planning that went into the forethought of that engine before it was ever brought to market. What an amazing piece of work Lionel has done. They had their stuff together on this one, that's for sure.
Thank you so much for such an informative post. The pics were fantastic and the narration for them really helped to understand what one was looking at. You have waaay more guts than I do, I would never take down an engine just to see what made it "Tick."
Thank you again for a terrific thread.
Thanks to Alex’s bravery and his pics I was able to repair my depleting coal load tender. The weak link on all these tenders is the rubber loop attached to the rubber coal load. Over time that loop will tear and the coal load will fail to deplete. The repair is simple but involved since you must take the tender completely apart to access the coal load.
Thanks Alex without your pics I would have been stumped.
-Pete
Awesome pictures, and comments. LOL, True Tech's don't worry about warranty's.
This tech doesn't do work he can get done for free
