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Anyone "DCC'd" old Atlas WTD Plymouth Switchers??

SundayShunterSundayShunterOGR Forum Member
As per the Title.... has anyone here converted the old Atlas WTD Plymouth Switcher to DCC ??
I know it can't be very straightforward - the one pole of the motor collects power via the chassis, so the motor would need totally isolating from the frame, then there's the question of which decoder would you use? My two Plymouths used to trip out my 1Amp analogue controller I used to have, so I doubt a 1Amp decoder could cope?
Lastly - where would you even [u]put[/u] the decoder?? The only possible places are tucked somewhere in the cab, under the side windows, as far as I can see.

I'd be really interested to see what solutions members have come up with... if any?
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P prrjimOGR Forum Member

I did one.   I did use an HO size decoder.   I used a Digitrax DH123AT or some such.  I know it is the Digtrax 123, which is only a 3 function bottom of the line decoder.   It is rated at 2 amps max, I think, and 1.5 amps continuous.   It is pretty small and I think I put it in the cab.    I will get it out and look.    I don't remember any problem with the motor isolation.   I think the brushes are isolated. 

 

 

BN Bill NielsenOGR Forum Member

I have one of those Plymouths stored away somewhere, and have been considering installing a decoder in it. I'm thinking of using a TCS "KAT-22" (with "keep-alive" super cap technology) to mitigate the limited number of wheel-rail contact points on a small short wheel-based switcher. I have used these decoders in some of my HO locos and have been very pleased with their performance.

 

Bill in FtL

SundayShunterSundayShunterOGR Forum Member

By way of thanks to everyone's replies, here's a few pics of my decoder install of one of my Atlas Plymouths. The job was a lot easier than I anticipated!!

I used a Digitrax DH126D.

The motor is isolated from the chassis; the black wire from the harness went to the black pick-up wire; the red harness wire to the chassis mounting-point, 'rear Fireman's side' of the chassis block.

The decoder is neat & small & fits nicely in the Fireman's position (I have an Engineer in place on the other side of the cab!) Wiring for the rear light & a beacon feed into the cab. As it's only a 2-function decoder, I've wired both headlights (warm white LEDs) to F0F(white lead) and a roof beacon (red LED) to F0R(yellow lead). Now I just need to function-map the yellow lead to F1 and make it flash, and make F0F on continuously - not uncommon for a switcher..?

With the cab in place, the decoder is hardly visible from eye-level -

... although it is from a higher vantage point. Maybe a bit of black paint will help disguise it - like it did the chassis block!!

 

Many thanks again to everyone!!

Last edited by SundayShunter

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