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Wow, there sure is a lot of diversity on opinions of The Best Track for these Toy Trains. I think, after 60 years of playing with these trains, if I ran conventional, I would almost without thinking use Lionel O  Gauge Tubular Track, Hands down. However, do to the fact that Lionel, MTH, Atlas O, Weaver, and many others are making trains that look, act, run, and smoke, and talk, and do wheel slipping, and all these finely detailed features, I am thinking that Ross, Atlas O, Gargraves is the best.......Its a great Hobby and everyone is Exactly right, the choice of track is the one that works for them. Lets enjoy Running Our Trains.... Great Thread....Happy Railroading

Originally Posted by Scrapiron Scher:

I have done several large layouts, the most recent of which was The Munoz Lines. We have used Atlas O after much testing of all the track systems. I would use Atlas O and also Atlas O switches every time. I know there has been much criticism of Atlas O switches. They were great for me.

 

Scrapiron

To answer - yes.  Went with Atlas O for a host of reasons and zero regrets.  

 

Scrapiron - I use mostly No.5 turnouts. Most all my locomotives, right up to my VL Challenger,  don't have pickup rollers spread far enough apart to maintain electrical contact - even going through the non-diverging leg. The 6924(?) gizmo is great - for power loss going through the diverging leg, not the non-diverging.  Any suggestions on how not to lose power on these things?  I know Atlas is revising the turnouts and subsequently will offer a bandaid fix for those who own older turnouts. But this is of no help today.  Thanks for any advice. 

 

 

Peter

I agree Rich. I am in the planning stages of a new layout and have had trouble with track choices over the last several months..  I currently use Atlas O and Ross switches, but really like the look of MTH'S Scaletrax. So I narrowed it down to using Scaletrax. However,  problem is availability.  Especially the #6 switches that have not been released in over 2 years. So now it's back to the drawing board. Do I go Gargraves and Ross? Atlas and Ross? Wait to see if Scaletrax will come back? Peco?? Good lord, it's mind boggling.  
 
Originally Posted by Rich Battista:

You guys don't know what you are missing!  ScaleTrax all the way!

 

www.toytrainsontracks.com

 

Yes; Super O with custom bent curves and Ross Custom Switches.  Old layout was Gargraves which was excellent track but wanted to try the Super O which, IMHO, looks better and is quieter.   Only problem is with slide shoes on the switches.  Lionel 022 switches are the only ones I've never had slide shoe problems with.  Both the Gargraves and the Super O custom curves require more labor than sectional track. 

Too much time on my hands?

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  • Super O curves and Ross Switches: Super O Layout under construction

Leapinlarry posted "Wow, there sure is a lot of diversity on opinions of The Best Track for these Toy Trains."

 

I don't read this thread as the best track, but rather as the title asked - and as most folks have responded - are you happy with your track choice. But I suppose folks are choosing the track system they think is best.

 

For me, I don't know if 027 tubular is the best. It has it's liabilities as well as advantages. It just works for me. Best for me is not necessarily best for anyone else.

 

There is a diversity of opinions here - just as there are a diversity of choices. The vast majority of the history of 0 gauge is one that is mostly toy trains. Now with the interest in scale 0 gauge, we have a greater diversity of choices in this still small market.

 

One might assume more choices would mean growth. And I'm sure there has been some growth. But not equal to the choices or variety.

 

Reading this begs one question I wonder if folks consider: How does a train company come up with one single product that will please a majority of train consumers when we are such a diverse group?? Especially when one considers the high cost of new product development versus actual market demand, meaning sales and profits.

 

Just because a particular product would be a hit with one small segment of this overall hobby 0 gauge market, doesn't mean it's going to sell enough to be worthwhile of the initial investment costs.

 

Well, this is a great time to be a consumer in the 0 gauge market... there are more choices than ever (as witnessed by this thread) even if there are products yet to be made.

 

But I more than suspect this is a very challenging time to be in the manufacturing end (and the retailing end too) of this train hobby.

Not at all satisfied. When all four trains are running, the Fastrack noise is deafening, and you have to shout to be heard, even with a carpet barrier between the track and the plywood.  Recently made some changes and took out the worthless uncoupling and operating tracks. Also replacing my lighted bumpers with earthen bumpers as they inevitably fail one by one.

Traditional all the way if I could do it over again.

Somewhere around 1955 I started to glue and HO spike O27 tubular to 1/4 inch square hardwood ties. Except for trading 27 inch curves for 54 and 72 inch and hand making turnouts the process hasn't changed in 60 years of model railroading. This all started because 3 rail looked so unproto-typical to a 12 year old especially one with friends that had American Flyer or HO so something had to be done.

 

Round 1 was painting the center rail black, still not super good.

 

Round 2 went to brass brads every several ties with brass rod soldered to the tops of the brads, pretty good looking but required a connection between conductors every few feet which never satisfied well in looks or longevity.

 

Round 3 went to brass tube which then could be joined with pins much like tinplate rail.

 

Round 4 when I saw Super O for the first time the brads went away with the ties cut from lengths of pine run through my father’s table saw to emulate the shape of Lionel's plastic tie. However the center conductor continues to be a small diameter tube glued to the tie. Until epoxy longevity without maintenance continued to be a problem but the look especially when ballasted with Hartz Mountain bird gravel was acceptable. This has been the regimen pretty much ever since.

 

Bogie

Originally Posted by OldBogie:

Somewhere around 1955 I started to glue and HO spike O27 tubular to 1/4 inch square hardwood ties. Except for trading 27 inch curves for 54 and 72 inch and hand making turnouts the process hasn't changed in 60 years of model railroading. This all started because 3 rail looked so unproto-typical to a 12 year old especially one with friends that had American Flyer or HO so something had to be done.

 

Round 1 was painting the center rail black, still not super good.

 

Round 2 went to brass brads every several ties with brass rod soldered to the tops of the brads, pretty good looking but required a connection between conductors every few feet which never satisfied well in looks or longevity.

 

Round 3 went to brass tube which then could be joined with pins much like tinplate rail.

 

Round 4 when I saw Super O for the first time the brads went away with the ties cut from lengths of pine run through my father’s table saw to emulate the shape of Lionel's plastic tie. However the center conductor continues to be a small diameter tube glued to the tie. Until epoxy longevity without maintenance continued to be a problem but the look especially when ballasted with Hartz Mountain bird gravel was acceptable. This has been the regimen pretty much ever since.

 

Bogie

Do you have any pictures Bogie? It all sounds very interesting. 

I am running four mainlines with a total length of 84 to 93 feet of track in each loop.  The layout travels between two rooms.  Power distribution is tapped off of 16 gauge solid insulated copper wire ran under most all of the table areas.  I use 5 soldered power connections on each mainline.  I use Lionel O gauge tubular track laid down on 1/2" plywood covered with astroturf carpet.  The lack of roadbed, number of track ties, scale dimensions, etc hasn't bothered me so far.  I grew up with tubular track and for me it is easy to use.  I have a significant amount of track in reserve for those layouts that travel throughout the house on the carpet and linoleum.  Having a 2 year grandson totally in love with trains usually gets me final approval on just about any carpet layouts, train purchases or train room modifications now days.

Originally Posted by O Scale Will:

I like the 027 tubular track, though with 042 minimum curves. I was less than happy with the 6-65168 42" path switches, (shorting, buzzing etc), so I have replaced most of them with the K-line/Lionel 6-12080 switches, and they are great.

I have track right on the hardwood floors, so I am more concerned with reliability and durability than "prototypical" appearance of the track.

I do have a short section of FasTrack, just to have the flashing crossing signals.

I use the same with K line switches.

image

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Originally Posted by rdeal:

of all the tracks discussed in this thread - which works best with tinplate?

 

thanks- rdeal

Tinplate will run on all of them. However I love K-Line shadow rail or K-Line snap. Mates with Lionel tubular perfectly,rugged,looks good, available in a lot of curve diameters. Can be mated with Ross Tinplate switches. If using snap,add pins. I have used GGs,Atlas NS, I like the K-Line the best by far.

 

 Here is some O 120,click on photo to enlarge

 

P1000286

 

Dale H

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Last edited by Dale H

Paul,

   Having used Lionel conventional tubular for years, I switched to FasTrack using my old 072 tubular switches for many years.  Now I have upgraded to the new FasTrack Command Control switches with my FT track, controlling the FT CC switches with the Legacy Cab2.  I am totally satisfied with FasTrack for the running of all my different Tin Plate, Post War and modern Legacy/ P2 Trains.  I do have an inner circle of 036 MTH RealTrax, which I intend to run with the new 036 FT CC Switches, this coming Christmas season.  

PCRR/Dave

 

 

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

 

I was wondering who made those switches thanks Kurtds.

 I don't own k-line shadow, or super snap, but I sure wouldn't mind it much.

A buddy has had both. Great looking stuff.

 

  It has a "Super-O look" to it, but black instead of brown. "Normal shaped" center rail too, not a thin strip of metal.

I don't remember the track profile though, just how clean and smooth it seemed.

 

  I initial reaction is tin car wheels would do better in the long run on tubular.

   Mine likes the O gauge, & puts up with 0-27. Old Super-O likes roller pickups.

    Track code (rail height) might be an issue for tin flanges on some track switches too.    

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Adriatic:

 

I was wondering who made those switches thanks Kurtds.

 I don't own k-line shadow, or super snap, but I sure wouldn't mind it much.

A buddy has had both. Great looking stuff.

 

  It has a "Super-O look" to it, but black instead of brown. "Normal shaped" center rail too, not a thin strip of metal.

I don't remember the track profile though, just how clean and smooth it seemed.

 

  I initial reaction is tin car wheels would do better in the long run on tubular.

   Mine likes the O gauge, & puts up with 0-27. Old Super-O likes roller pickups.

    Track code (rail height) might be an issue for tin flanges on some track switches too.    

 

 

 

You see them on eBay every now and then. I had a lot of 027 track saw the switches at a train show about 15 years ago and got 4 switches. Wish I would have got more. They were 42 and I changed all my curves to 42. To have the layout I wanted changed it from 4 x 8 to 5 x 8.

Originally Posted by rdeal:

"suzukovich" - how have you worked out the noise? ? ?

 

thanks - rdeal

There have been a few threads dedicated to this subject. In my case its a combination of a few things.  Wood base on carpet, Then the bathroom mats I have used to simulate snow cover. Bathroom mats as you know have a rubber backing and are thick and plush which has a tendency to fill the gaps under the fast track. Also in certain sections in addition to the wood base, I also have carpet padding on top of the wood and under the mats. Two of the pics show a section of Atlas track I am playing with to see if it will give me more of the desired look of deep snow.

 

1-DSCF3105

 

 1-DSCF3099

 1-DSCF3103

 1-DSCF3104

 

 The next two are with the Atlas track. 

 

1-DSCF3100

1-DSCF3101

 

 

 

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Spray foam on the underside of track works well too.

Originally Posted by suzukovich:

       
Originally Posted by rdeal:

"suzukovich" - how have you worked out the noise? ? ?

 

thanks - rdeal

There have been a few threads dedicated to this subject. In my case its a combination of a few things.  Wood base on carpet, Then the bathroom mats I have used to simulate snow cover. Bathroom mats as you know have a rubber backing and are thick and plush which has a tendency to fill the gaps under the fast track. Also in certain sections in addition to the wood base, I also have carpet padding on top of the wood and under the mats. Two of the pics show a section of Atlas track I am playing with to see if it will give me more of the desired look of deep snow.

 

1-DSCF3105

 

 1-DSCF3099

 1-DSCF3103

 1-DSCF3104

 

 The next two are with the Atlas track. 

 

1-DSCF3100

1-DSCF3101

 

 

 

My layout is 23x11, all Fastrack except for a tubular street car section. I get transferred every three years on average and have to take it apart and redo it, so I appreciate the flexibility of Fastrack. The construction consists of various sizes of tables made of 1x4 frames supporting plywood covered with 1/2" foam insulation sheets painted white for a Christmas snow look. I can just play around with Fastrack and manage to get some nice designs to fit my current space. I know it's noisy (especially when I have 5 trains and the street car all running) and the plastic ballast is at least twice as high as prototypical but it is very easy to work with; I do suggest to watch Mike Reagan's vid on how to fix continuity issues with the center rail. I never could master RR Track software and for me Fastrack is easy to experiment with; just have lots of the short pieces at hand. And since my layout basically looks like the Polar Express (both scale and toy models) running through Bedford Falls in It's a Wonderful Life" it's all a willing suspension of disbelief anyway. To each his poison.

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