Atlas O Switches

I have a lot of Atlas switches. I have had all the problems that you have mentioned. I still love the looks and operation of Atlas switches and feel that it has been worth solving the problems to use them.

 

Whenever you have a situation where the spacing of the pickup rollers and the gaps in the switches don't propererly lineup, you will have engine stalling at slower speeds. There are three obvious soultions.

 

One, don't run at slow, realistic speeds. That is a temporary option but not a permanent one for most of us. Second, use engines with as many pickup rollers as possible, four is the best. Third, use "power routing" to supply power to the "dead" rails of the switch.

 

I only have these problems with long switches and "stacked" switches. I "stacked" 072 switches in two of my yards and also cut them shorter to get closer track spacing. Engines with four pickup rollers will run on them as is. Engines that are shorter or with one or two pickup rollers wouldn't run at slower speeds without "power routing" the switches.

 

Also, we have recently went to Tortoise switch machines which has provided better operation and less problems. AND it is great getting rid of the above table switch machines! There are power drops on both sides of all switches.  I am using Atlas Non-Derail boards on all my switches too. I am contolling them all from control panels and a few are hooked up to MTH AIU's for remote control with the handhelds. I am very pleased with operations after all these modifications.

 

PS - It really helps to have a son that is a comercial electrician and layout builder.

 

Art 

 

 

They don't come with the switches.   I wouldn't say you have to call and complain but you would have to call and just "ask".  :-)

 

And they were shipped free to me.

JohnS - thanks for the "helpful" response. lol By the way, assume that your nj hi railers footer means your affiliated with the njh? If so then you know Atlas O is on the subway lines. curious - does njh use Ross switches on the Atlas O subway lines?

 

Just get Ross switches and make your life easier and your train running experience better!!!!!

PJB, All Atlas track on the subway. Ross switches on the rest of the layout.

Jim D.

Trevize, would you happen to have any pics of the extender you rails?

 

Sorry I do not.   I got a couple sets from Atlas assuming I would need them but after I installed several #7.5's and ran all my engines through them on super slow speeds it was obvious it wasn't needed for me (your milage may vary).   I had 2 steam engines that only had 2 pickup rollers that had issues so after doing the math of adding rails to 120+ Atlas switches or adding a pickup roller to the tender of 2 steam engines I chose adding a pickup roller :-).

 

To: JohnS and those that like to jump on any Atlas switch topic with unhelpful comments.

Ya know what? It doesn't reflect well on you.   It really doesn't.   Nor does it reflect well on the NJ Hi-railers club as you proudly display their name in your signature.  That's a mighty attitude that you convey for the entire club.  It becomes a really big turn off for any desire I may have to visit.   So anyway,  many of us choose the Atlas track system because we like the look of the track.   It has many advantages that Ross/Gar doesn't have which I won't debate here.  Why some of you have to try and turn a topic about helping some one into a bashing which is better is beyond me.   I just don't get it.   The OP is asking for help with Atlas switches, either help on that topic or if you really feel the need to start a debate go start your own new topic on the matter.    Thanks. 

Trevize, Since we have about 300 Ross switches and maybe 50 Atlas switches I think the NJHirailers club would have some expertise in the matter. The Ross switches are more reliable than the Atlas. We have issues with both switches but the Ross come out on top. Come the club and we will be happy to explain it to you.

Jim D.

Norm:

 

The newer stock of Atlas number 7.5 switches come with the extenders already installed.  If you have a dealer close by, you could see them installed there. 

 

If you would like a set to try, I will be glad to send you one with the instructions.

 

Your layout is looking great!

 

Happy railroading,

Don

I seem to have more problems (on my Atlas #5s) with sounds dropping out on shorter tenders that have IR tethers and no batteries installed. It's an easy enough fix to just chuck a battery in the tender. I'd still like to see these extender rails if anyone can snap a quick shot.

 

I'll probably always stick with Atlas track. It held up very well during the layout nuking last year. I reused a lot of it including all the #5s on this go-around and the track and switches are just as smooth as ever.

Thanks Don! Are these kits only for the #7.5s?

 

I think I have WAY more experience with these products than you

 

 

Yes it is clear that you "think" that you do.

Hi Norm,

If you use the Atlas 6924 non-derail circuit board they will provide anti-delaying feature and also do power routing of closure rails as well.  I added power feed lines to both closure rails and then power them thought the 6924 board. All my engines will do a slow crawl through the largest Atlas switches (7.5 and 5 deg turnouts), the down side is all the wiring necessary to make work. I know you're using Custom Signals based on your blog site so the 6924 so I think these are a "must have" when using those nice signals.

 

I can do a video or provide a demo as  I'm also in Metro Detroit area.

That might be worth checking out, thanks Craig.

Okay Norm, I will post some video during the next couple hours,... will be available around the house this weekend as well as I'm about 1 mile from Lakeside mall.  I can show you the 11 wires used to complete the hookup.

Norm:  Atlas only makes the kits for the number 7.5 switches but like you, I have had problems with the number 5's also.  I was able to modify the kit for the 7.5's to work on the 5's.

 

if you would like to see one, send me an email at:  jonesdonaldg @ bellsouth.net  (without the spaces) and I will send you a picture of one of my modified number 5's.

 

Happy railroading,

Don

It does not appear that Atlas has made any changes that would fix the power problem, I have also seen derailment problems with their switches. I agree with the post that says they should work right out of the box. Since that is not the case Ross is the way to go using Atlas track if that's the one you like.

OK, I'm getting a bit confused now. The original poster, PJB, asked questions SPECIFICALLY related to Atlas switches.  Those of us that actually use the Atlas O track system, have responded.

 

Why does "Ross" keep enter the discussion? 

Getting back to the original poster's question 1, try the Public Delivery Track hobby shop.  When amhobbies did not have what I wanted, they did.

One of the largest Atlas O dealers in the US is, Caboose Stop Hobbies, Cedar Falls, Iowa (800-642-7012). I purchased ALL my Atlas O track & switches from Merlyn Lauber, and he gave me quit a deal, 5 or 6 years ago. I still buy Atlas O freight cars from him, and he was/is just as competitive as Bob Thatcher was, who I also used to purchase from (especially Bob's special run Atlas cars).

 

Try Caboose Stop Hobbies, you will NOT be disappointed.

Thanks to all for all the input and advice, and would really appreciate it if we could keep this thread constructive please?  

 

It’s true I am asking about Atlas switches, as I’m leaning toward using them.  This is because I think Atlas and RCS would probably clash aesthetically (rail color/shape and tie size/spacing seem different) and it seems the two big gripes with Atlas switches are: (a) losing power at the Y point; and (b) the need to wire all three ends.  If that’s the case, then the gripes amount to “noise,” given any switch would experience power loss at the Y without a “fix” (RCS offers one as a charge item) and standard operating procedure should be power drops at all three legs (RCS does this free of charge) – so these problems with Atlas switches are easily fixed.  With that said, because I’m a novice doing a father-so project with my young sons, inputs are greatly appreciated for whatever you all believe to be the best solution.     

 

If it helps, I have done some research – I’ve read RCS switches are the best and that Atlas switches are just plain problematic.  I’ve also seen posts from people who experience problems with RCS switches because they have differences in tolerances because they are hand-made or because of varying quality control (but let’s face it – the lion’s share of complaint threads are NOT about RCS switches).  And, I’ve read that the newer Atlas switches are fine.  And, as I said, it seems that even the two major concerns with Atlas switches have easy solutions.  I guess the reason I’m only leaning toward Atlas switches at this point is that I’m not entirely convinced that I’m aware of all the real problems (hence, the reason I posted here).  I think if it weren’t for the aesthetics issue, I would definitely go with RCS.  On the flip side, I may or may not encounter problems with Atlas switches (so it’s a “possibility" ) but unless someone can offer creative advice, it is a certainty that mixing Atlas track and RCS switches would create clashing aesthetics.  

 

I’m very much open to your experiences and advice, but hopefully this offers a better understanding of why I’ve burned so many brain cells on this and why I’m now leaning toward Atlas…

 

Peter

Well now, since you haven't actually started your layout construction, you should also look into the MTH Scale Track line. If I had known more about the MTH Scale Track, I would have built my permanent layout with the MTH track instead of the ATLAS O.

 

The MTH Scale Track has a much more prototypical rail size & height, and since I am a 3RS modeler and run a lot of 2-Rail wheel equipped rolling stock, the MTH solid nickel silver Scale Track would have looked and worked even better, in my opinion.

 

You can check out what my track looks like by going to the August/September 2010 issue of OGR Magazine (Run 244), it is the "cover story".

 

Enjoy building your new layout!

I’ve looked at MTH.  We own Premier steam locomotives, freight and passenger cars so I am a fan of MTH.  Unfortunately, I’ve read that MTH switches are problematic, and in my opinion, the track ties are spaced too far apart for a main line.  Finally, I have a concern over the center rail.  A similar center rail was introduced a while back by someone else and, over time, people complained that it scored the pickups.  Thanks but not for me.  Sticking with Atlas (assuming the two “big” problems are as I’ve described), or possibly RCS if I can get past the aesthetics.

I've combined Ross switches and Atlas track and haven't had much problem doing that. They do look different but once the ballast is in place, the difference is not objectionable.

 

I prefer Atlas switches because they're made to tighter tolerances than Ross. The Ross frog is built to accomodate a wider variety of manufacturer and vintage of three rail trains (since the major manufacturers don't build their engines and rolling stock wheels to a common standard like the HO and N folks do). My big articulated steam engines tend to drop into the Ross frog when the rear engine passes through the frog. I don't like the "bump" every time one of these engines goes through a Ross switch. However diesels and non-articulated steam run very smooth trough a Ross switch.

 

Even thogh I prefer Atlas they are somewhat more troublesome than Ross. Besides the other issues that have already been pointed out, I have had a few of the tiny screws that attach the jumper wires to the rail at various points under the switch to back out due to the vibration from the moving trains. Before I put a switch down now I make sure these screws are tight and place a drop of 5 minute epoxy over the head and adjacent tie surface to keep them from backing out. I also wouldn't buy Atlas's curved switch because of power drop out problems similar to the 7.5's. When I need a curved switch I buy Ross.

 

The biggest issue with Ross has been the DZ1000 switch machines. Some of them just don't throw completely or bounce. This is not specifically a Ross issue but a Z Stuff issue. Ever since Z Stuff had to find a new manufacturer for their switch machines there has been what I would call a higher than expected rate of failure.

 

If you go with Atlas switches, consider buying the Rossbed switch pads for them. These provide a stable and flat base for the switch.

 

Ken

 

 

If anyone has the time, most of my Yootoobz have trains moving over Atlas #5s at different speeds and routing. There's even an O72/O54 switch on my passing siding that gets cruised over by a 3rd Rail Dec without too much hassle.

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/no...bonneau?feature=mhee

 

All of these switches were recycled from the old layout except for a few new ones.

Well, you can believe what you want, but that is all total BS!

 

A number of guys have built pretty sizable layouts with ALL MTH "Scale Trax", and have no problems at all. 

 

1) The switches are NOT "problematic".

 

2) The tie spacing may LOOK like they are too far apart, but after weathering of the rail/track and ballasting, everything then "looks right". In my opinion, anyway.

 

3) The old wives tail about the "too thin" center rail wearing/grooving pick-up rollers, is BS. Dave Hikel has built, and is STILL building, a huge 3-Rail layout, out in Washington State, all with MTH "Scale Trax", called the "Northwest Trunk Lines". Do a search for that on the OGR Forum, and you will be amazed at the size of the layout, and how good the MTH track really looks. Also, do some research for the guy's (can't remember his name) layout that is featured in current MTH catalogues, as his layout is also stunning.

On the 7.5 switches I have had a problem with MTH locos with 3 axle trucks with the blind center axles they tend to short out on the longer turnouts. No other problems so far with other locos.

 

Also some of the plastic throw rods keep coming off from the Atlas turnout motor to the contact point on the turnout.

"The old wives tail about the "too thin" center rail wearing/grooving pick-up rollers, is BS."

 

Well, not completely BS.  In the late 1940's/early 1950's Lionel used some soft material for the roller pickups.  These were generally wider rollers than we have today.  When Super O track was introduced in 1957, these soft rollers did not do well with the narrow center blade and did groove badly.  I've seen this myself.  Of interest, a friend bought a NYC 2344 F-3 at a train show that had badly grooved rollers, except the groove was rounded at the bottom and the width of the regular Lionel O-gauge track.  That puppy had some serious miles on it!

 

With modern pickup rollers, I agree that grooving is not an issue.  I've never seen a modern locomotive, or even a Lionel piece newer than 1955 that had evidence of roller wear.  I do find it interesting that there seems to be so much concern about a problem that existed 50 years ago but not really today.

One thing that has always bewildered me in product presentations, advertisements, and the such is the lack of addressing specific issues that are/were "inherent" in previous incarnations. Of course, the marketing heads will blather on about never, ever say anything negative - but down here on the ground we are left to wonder if anyone took notice of the issues. I mean, folks around here are not exactly shy! (In the software world, a 'bug' list is maintained. Then, when the issue is resolved, it is generally listed in the info for the update.)

 

I know I will be building with Atlas. Done deal. And the piece of territory that comes with that decision is the awareness of the issues with Atlas switches as pointed out in these threads. In such, accommodation/access has additional requirements.

 

Regardless of where something is made - ya gotta listen to your customers. I have never heard of anything but "best" associated to Ross. I have always heard of two distinct problems with Atlas. And if the folks here can figure out the fix - then why is the fix still a fix?? I've been reading about these same issues for three years now. Has the issue(s) been fixed and folks are still just harping about the old stuff - or does the problem still exist in the NEW switches? I don't know. I can't find anything that disputes their experience with the status of today.

 

So again, if a fix has been implemented at the production point, I wonder why publicly addressing the issue isn't done. Surely, even the marketing heads know that product improvement is reason to brag! 

 

(PS - by 'improvement' I don't mean they upped the rivet count.)

 

That would likely be Rich Battista, who posts here from time to time.  He produced two wonderfully inspiring DVD's of his Black Diamond Railway layout done up entirely in MTH Scaletrax.

 

The ONLY downside to MTH Scaletrax (IMHO, that is) would be that it isn't as extensive an offering as either Atlas-O or Ross.  Admittedly, it's mostly missing the more exotic items like curved turnouts and double-slip switches, etc...  And unfortunately, Scaletrax has a different enough rail profile that it can't be mixed in -- at least not easily (from what I've been told) -- with Ross, if you were to need a Ross turnout here and there to fit the bill.

 

I'm currently planning a HUGE hi-rail layout, and I had seriously contemplated going the MTH Scaletrax route after seeing Rich Battista's videos.  But my current track plan does have a handful of curved turnouts that I don't think can easily be re-designed out of the plan if I were to go the Scaletrax route.  So I may ultimately decide to go with a combination of Atlas-O and Ross.  But I haven't passed the point of no return, yet!

DTI-Craig. If you post a video that would be amazing!

Norm Charonneau -I just got the chance to check out your YouTube linked videos. Your layout is freakin' amazing!!! Couldnt get my mind around the fact that its a model despite seeing the third rail. Am I correct in concluding you're using atlas track with RCS switches?

DT-Craig. If you do post video please give us the link here. Or at least tell me where I can find it. Thanks. Hot water - I have Battista's Black Diamond videos. He has a nice layout and the lower profile track looks nice in the video. But like I said, to each his own. I'll stick with MTH trains.

On our last two layouts we have installed every type of Atlas O switch there is. A total of about 55 switches In all. I use Atlas O because appearance is very important. I have seen friends who have significant issues with "other" brands that I have not experienced with Atlas O. Our large steamers and most smaller steamers run beautifully over the longest switches.

 

Are the Atlas O switch machines Rube Goldberg? Yes.

Do they work? Yes.

Do you need to wire each leg? Yes.

Is it worth the effort? Yes

Lookat our layout videos.

 

Eliot