Atlas O track with Lionel Fastrack switches?

FWIW...my layout is all Atlas.  I haven't had any issues with any of my switches (there are currently 23 on the layout).  

There is a non-derailing feature built into Atlas switched.  The switch mechanism is sprung which provides the non-derailing feature.  If a train enters the switch through the non thrown side, the trucks simply push the points aside while the train is moving through and the points spring back after the train passes.  

As for using FasTrack switches with Atlas track...I haven't done it so can't really speak to how it works...but I imagine it should work just fine

Hope that helps!!!

The problems with Atlas switches were resolved long ago. Some of these things just don't seem to go away? Also as Wanderer says above, the Atlas switches are spring loaded and have non-derail built in, as long as you don't want to actually have the switch change positions. If you really want to do that, then you will have to do similar modifications to what Alex M did in his video with his Ross switches. I started out to add the non-derail and the Atlas 6924 boards to my switches. However, after seeing the springs in action I changed my mind and did not add that feature. I still might add this feature someday (mainly for looks and I like fiddling with the electrical stuff), but really I am satisfied with things as they are now.

I have 13 Atlas switches and have not had any problems with them, other than some I bought used that had really been 'used'. I had to repair those which I was able to do with help and parts from Atlas to make the repairs, they work just fine now. The switches I purchased new have had no problems at all. Personally, I would not hesitate to use Atlas switches and I like everything to match. Atlas has also made further improvements to their latest release of switches which is what you will get if you currently purchase them new. They were out of them for so long a while back that the old supply was exhausted, which is the reason I bought the used ones.

I use both Legacy and DCS and they both work just fine with all the Atlas track and switches. Some say the blackening causes problems, but I have not had problems there either, I have not removed any blackening and everything all works well here. The only known problems I am aware of are with the curved switches and smaller engines. The pickup rollers are too close together and they lose power in the curved turnouts. This applies to all curved turnouts and is not just a problem with The Atlas curved turnouts. It's the gap between the power rails that causes the problems.

As for the Fastrack switches with Atlas track, I believe Lee Willis was using Fastrack and switched to Atlas track, but kept his Fastrack switches. As I recall he only had a few, but I believe he posted here with information on how he adapted them to fit up with the Atlas track. It's been at least 3 or 4 years ago that this was posted, but the thread might still be available here somewhere.

Thanks Brian.

Maybe I had heard wrong all along as I thought that the Atlas O switches didn't have this feature and would have to be wired to operate as such.  That eases a lot of my concerns for any future purchases of Atlas O switches (I have none in my inventory now).

I'm glad my thoughts helped out Kevin!  

I actually like the Atlas non derailing feature vs. the others.  Since it's passive (mechanical), it's really pretty fool proof.  

Kevin,

I was very frustrated early on with Atlas switches but after I got through the learning curve I was pleased to find them very reliable. In fact I go out of my way to snap up used switches whenever I can no matter what condition they are in. For me, the trick was to examine the jumper wires underneath. In later switches these are very large and obvious. In early switches you don't see them because they were embedded in the plastic and very poorly attached to the track metal. Where I have the older switches I drill into the base metal from below and anchor tinned 18 awg wire with small machine screws. Problem solved. If you're concerned about the machines you can replace with DZ1000's. After doing that for while I've since started using the Atlas machines again. Make sure the machine moves freely. You can test it off of the track to be sure. Then be sure there's plenty of clearance around the throw and you're good. Personally I think Atlas track with Fastrack switches would be a poor match. Atlas plus Ross switches might be the way to go if you want an alternative to the Atlas switch.

S

Thanks for that detailed explanation RTR12.

Your post basically came through at the same time as mine so I never saw it until now.

Scott T Johnson posted:

Kevin,

I was very frustrated early on with Atlas switches but after I got through the learning curve I was pleased to find them very reliable. In fact I go out of my way to snap up used switches whenever I can no matter what condition they are in. For me, the trick was to examine the jumper wires underneath. In later switches these are very large and obvious. In early switches you don't see them because they were embedded in the plastic and very poorly attached to the track metal. Where I have the older switches I drill into the base metal from below and anchor tinned 18 awg wire with small machine screws. Problem solved. If you're concerned about the machines you can replace with DZ1000's. After doing that for while I've since started using the Atlas machines again. Make sure the machine moves freely. You can test it off of the track to be sure. Then be sure there's plenty of clearance around the throw and you're good. Personally I think Atlas track with Fastrack switches would be a poor match. Atlas plus Ross switches might be the way to go if you want an alternative to the Atlas switch.

S

Thanks Scott.

If I were a bit more electronically inclined I would try that.  Sounds simple enough though.

Regards...

You are welcome. Hope the info helps you some.

The only other thing to be careful of are the switch machines. Scott's post made me think of those. They are twin coil and will burn up if left on too long. This is not unique to Atlas, the smaller scales have used this type for many years and they have the same problems. I used the Atlas switch controllers that came with the switches (#56) and have never had a problem. As long as you don't hold the button down too long you should be fine. Just push the button and you will hear the switch operate and then release the button. Just don't set anything down on top of the switch controllers.

I do have one DZ1000, which is also a very nice switch machine, but the only reason I have it is because the Atlas switch machine was too big to fit where I wanted to install it. The DZ1000's are much smaller and it fit the space with room left over. If you ever do want to change your switch machines the DZ1000s are a very nice replacement, but about twice the price of the Atlas switch machines. The only Atlas switch machines I have had to replace were on the used switches I purchased. All newly purchased are still working just fine.

One more thing if you ever do have a problem. Atlas has great customer support. Every time I have contacted them about something they have been great at helping me and they have some very knowledgeable folks there as well.

If you have any more questions, ask away and I will try to answer them or my email is in my profile.

Good luck.

Wanderer posted:

There is a non-derailing feature built into Atlas switched.  The switch mechanism is sprung which provides the non-derailing feature.  If a train enters the switch through the non thrown side, the trucks simply push the points aside while the train is moving through and the points spring back after the train passes.  

 

if only this were true for light weight cars and two wheel pony trucks.