Thanks, Joel, that’s what I thought about the paint, as the rest was going well. Thanks for the glue tips as well. I usually apply on the edges, and let capillary action take place. When I finish, I’ll post a photo or two!
Sounds good Artie, looking forward to seeing them.
@Artie-DL&W posted:Hi, does anyone know why this crazing appears after painting? I’ve sanded them out and applied another coat in a few places, but I don’t want to put on too many coats. Could I be spraying too close or heavy? I’m using Rustoleum gray primer, and the blue final coat is also Rustoleum. Thanks, I want to finish this build.
Did you wash you model before primer? That’s called Crows Feet it’s caused when there’s a residue or your model and the paint is having a reaction to the primer like mixing lacquer acrylics and enamel paints. Although most primers are resisted to this some are not also the oil from you fingers will do this if you handled it. After sanding did you wash it with a mild soap? If you did not wash it after sanding you probably brought out more mold release in the plastic I would soak this in Brake fluid for a couple days till the paint bubbles off of it then clean it off real good then wash it was soap and water I would use Dawn dishwashing liquid let it dry for at least several hours do not touch the model with your bare hands then paint it again with primer let the primer dry for at least a day and then paint it with very light coats building up to your main color
😁 
Hello Agiain my Cousins'.. Latest restoraton projects in the que'.. Both of these items were listed as 1:43 scale vehicles. Upon arrival they are not. Ebay Sellers are not on their game lately when it comes to scales'...👺
The Caddy ambulance, is a 1:32 scale vehicle. The T Bird is a 1:36 scale vehicle. Here is their current appearance... The Ambulance has a triple A battery compartment. When the rear wheels turn it activates the red light. The bulb is shot, but the circuit component is intact. I'll see if I bring it back to life....
The hood and trunk open on the Bird, and there's a motor in side, along with a carpeted trunk liner... Next photos posted will be finished restorations...😉
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Thanks, Lee. Yes, I wash all the parts in Dawn to remove the mold release, and then let it dry for a couple of days. From then on I handle the model with surgical gloves. I use paints from the same brands also. The primer laid down nicely. I think I painted too soon after priming, and since we had warm weather I may have painted with too much humidity in the air. In addition, I think I moved in too close with the spray can to avoid breezes. I use a large cardboard box as a booth, and paint outside. I sanded down the crows feet, now, and wiped the area with a paper towel and distilled water. I’ll wait until the next warm spell. I think you can see it’s only a small area. It should only take a very light coat at this point.
Thanks for the advice, and I’ll let you all know how it comes out. Take care, Artie.
@Artie-DL&W posted:Thanks, Lee. Yes, I wash all the parts in Dawn to remove the mold release, and then let it dry for a couple of days. From then on I handle the model with surgical gloves. I use paints from the same brands also. The primer laid down nicely. I think I painted too soon after priming, and since we had warm weather I may have painted with too much humidity in the air. In addition, I think I moved in too close with the spray can to avoid breezes. I use a large cardboard box as a booth, and paint outside. I sanded down the crows feet, now, and wiped the area with a paper towel and distilled water. I’ll wait until the next warm spell. I think you can see it’s only a small area. It should only take a very light coat at this point.
Thanks for the advice, and I’ll let you all know how it comes out. Take care, Artie.
Humidity does play a big factor but if it was me I would dig the box and paint in the open boxes sometimes can get paint dust while painting even though the box is clean. I’ve also painted outside in the warm weather then take it inside to soon and house will be cool and the paint has a reaction to it.
@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:😁
The Caddy ambulance, is a 1:32 scale vehicle. The T Bird is a 1:36 scale vehicle. Here is their current appearance... The Ambulance has a triple A battery compartment. When the rear wheels turn it activates the red light. The bulb is shot, but the circuit component is intact. I'll see if I bring it back to life....
The hood and trunk open on the Bird, and there's a motor in side, along with a carpeted trunk liner... Next photos posted will be finished restorations...😉
You got that right Ted those eBayer are horrible these days. Like you I’ve gotten stiffed on the scale size. These days if I see something I want and don’t recognize the scale I google it first then if it’s right I’ll bid on it. Good luck with it
Here’s what I have done so far on the Mack B Fire truck. I added some Don Mills components like top light beacon siren on the right side and a bell. For the light on the fender I use the corgi I just added a 1/25 scale model tail light to it
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While I wait to finish the Atlantis tanker, here’s a couple I just acquired from Diecast Direct, and the Lionel Peterbuilt from the “Trains and Trucking series repainted.
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Lee, Looks like you have a great start on the fire engine! I see it has gold trim around the door. Did you free hand paint that?
Artie, Most likely there is something on the primer. Since you have re sanded it and washed it again, I would suggest to wipe it down with Wax & Tar remover and let it dry for a day or 2.
Ted, Good luck on your new project cars! I feel your pain I was told once everything was 1/48-1/50. So I bought the lot. When it got here the only thing right was one truck everything else would work perfect for HO Layout! I am looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Thanks, Mike. I just realized I need to paint that stake trailer a more realistic color than that yellow!
@Artie-DL&W posted:Thanks, Mike. I just realized I need to paint that stake trailer a more realistic color than that yellow!
Great thing about the hobby Artie, our work is never finished'.. Everytime we look at the layout we see yet another project that requires our attention... Nice looking vehicles and layout'...
@lee drennen posted:
Here’s what I have done so far on the Mack B Fire truck. I added some Don Mills components like top light beacon siren on the right side and a bell. For the light on the fender I use the corgi I just added a 1/25 scale model tail light to it
Wow Lee, that is quick work'.. I like the gold pinstriping'... NICE'.
@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:
The pin stripe was already there I just removed the name with Nail Polish remover. Thanks for the complement hope to get more done
@lee drennen posted:The pin stripe was already there I just removed the name with Nail Polish remover. Thanks for the complement hope to get more done
Lee, what do you recommend for paint remover/striper?
True, Quarter Gauger 48, and thanks for the compliment.
Lee, that fire engine is going to be awesome.
@Artie-DL&W posted:While I wait to finish the Atlantis tanker, here’s a couple I just acquired from Diecast Direct, and the Lionel Peterbuilt from the “Trains and Trucking series repainted.
Artie that Pete is nice I have 2 of them I’m going to redo. One as a log truck you can buy a Western type log trailer from Don Mills Models
@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:Lee, what do you recommend for paint remover/striper?
The Purple kinda of Nail Polish remover with a Q tip dip it and rub on the lettering gently and wipe with another Qtip
@lee drennen posted:The Purple kinda of Nail Polish remover with a Q tip dip it and rub on the lettering gently and wipe with another Qtip
To remove paint I sometimes soak them in brake fluid in a tub with a lid on it for a week great when you have other projects going on or Air craft paint remover for metal models for faster results and never put resin models in brake fluid it turns them into a big wad of chewing gum
Ted, that's a big restoration job right there...nicely detailed vehicles. Looking forward to seeing the finished products!
Lee, that "fire engine" red color is spot on...you've got the makings a sharp looking unit right there, especially with the accessories you've added!
Artie, you've got some nice rigs there...I'm in the process of building my fleet a little at a time...
All you guys have incredible skill and blessed with patience in bringing your restorations to life...I'm hoping to finish off the scenery today showing the diesel soaked ground surrounding the "Charles Street Yard". From decades ago, I can still remember the smell of diesel and the appearance of the black ground from NH units running 24 hours a day. I'll post a pic later on today...
Looks to me like the last coat of paint attacked the previous.
Using rattle cans, in some cases, actually requires more care than using an airbrush IMO. First, the pigments in a spray can product are not as fine as in a model paint product. Second the spray can is far less controllable- it is ON or OFF - no in between, which often leads to too much paint for a scale model or runs, or the crazing you got.
It looks like the solvent in the most recent coat is attacking the underlying coat. It can be as a result of too heavy a coat on the last one- or of the underlying coat not being dry enough before overcoating. You should probably either remove the paint using a series of solvents- like Denatured alcohol, then (if that didn't work) mineral spirits, then finally lacquer thinner.
Good results are possible with rattle cans. SO you don't have to have an airbrush. To get better results-
1. I assume you did not use a primer?? (If so, it is possible that the primer (especially of a different brand of type than the top coat paint) is getting attacked by the color coat. Use the same brand and type of primer as the color coat. BUT using a primer often covers fine details like rivets etc.
2. If you use the center of the spray pattern and/or too close- that part will be too heavy, and above and below too light. (You cannot spray it TOO light, assuming you are not 2 feet away. ) Apply just mist coats, using 3 or 4 coats for the job with drying time between. I start off ahead of the object and pretty far away- maybe 12", actually painting BELOW it, and use the outer edges of the spray pattern to actually paint the train. Then move up a little when going the other direction. Move the can rapidly to avoid runs. Maybe make three passes to try and mist the whole thing. Practice on a piece of cardboard.
2. Start OFF the object to one side, with the nozzle 12-15" away, starting to paint with the center of the spray pattern below the object.
3. Move the can in one direction from off of one end, until the nozzle is beyond the other end. Repeat going the other direction, moving the spray pattern about halfway up, then a final pass in the original direction. Then let it dry 5 minutes or so. Wait for 5 minutes or so between coats but not over 24 hours.
Happy Sunday Folks, Thought I'd highlight motorcycles today. I learned how to ride a motorcycle at age 12, on a dirt track know back then as "Scramblers" My Brother in Law, was a racer, and Harley shop owner. I rode up until a few years ago, but stopped due to the psychos on the road.. Any way, I've always loved the english bikes. Not too many in O scale. But here's a few from Germany, by "Schuco Piccolo". Pricy, but worth it as you will see.
BMW R-6
Triumph 500 Tiger'
Horex Regina - 250
Action shot'..😃
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Ted, I can see those motor cycle guys always attract some pleasant onlookers to raise the competitive bar before a race
Artie. Don’t use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits or anything like that it will melt the plastic of your model and it will ruin it.
Thanks for the input, Mike. I did use a compatible primer, but as you mentioned, I went in a little too close and wet on that area. I have used an airbrush, but you can get a good finish with a rattle can. I just finished a Plasticville coaling tower in another post, and it came out well. The next warm, un-windy day, I’ll try again. I just tried to rush it.
No worries, Lee, I just used fine sandpaper, and leveled off the finish, cleaned it, and will wait for a nice day, and just lightly hit that area. I like that blue, which looks close to Sunoco blue.
@Artie-DL&W posted:No worries, Lee, I just used fine sandpaper, and leveled off the finish, cleaned it, and will wait for a nice day, and just lightly hit that area. I like that blue, which looks close to Sunoco blue.
Good sounds looks like you have this under control. Do you mind sharing what color Blue you are using? I never use a airbrush don’t even own one not worth the hassle been using a Rattle can for 40+ years and I’m happy with my results and if I don’t use a Rattle can I hand paint my models
Hi Lee, the paint is Rust-oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Ultra Cover paint + primer gloss deep blue (Quite a mouthful)!
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@Artie-DL&W posted:Hi Lee, the paint is Rust-oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Ultra Cover paint + primer gloss deep blue (Quite a mouthful)!
Very nice. I see it has primer added it the primer add might have reacted with your base primer I’ve had that problem with that paint
You could be right, Lee. It seems to be a good match for Sunoco blue.
@Artie-DL&W posted:You could be right, Lee. It seems to be a good match for Sunoco blue.
I think it’s perfect for Sunoco. I might have to get me a can
I finished detailing the military vehicles I bought a week or so ago at South of the Border, and in November 2019 at the Kennedy Space center. Still have to get and paint sitting people to put on the benches I added to the Troop Carrier.
Here they are at Cape Warrenaveral.
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WOW a lot of good advice being given here! I will try and soak everything in!
Ted, Great looking scenes and bikes, but I have to agree with Paul that gals that the bikers bring along don't leave much to the imagination! But hey I am ok with that! LOL
Artie, I also like the deep blue, I have the same can in my garage. Its the same color I used to paint my scratch built silo's for my Morton Salt building! Great rattle can Paint!
John, you sure have a vast verity of military folks on your base! I sure hope they are all on the same side! LOL Great looking new rigs!
With these low interest rates, things are picking at local dealerships...
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@Capetrainman posted:With these low interest rates, things are picking at local dealerships...
So, Paul, do I see a Chevy and a Ford dealership in this excellent scene. You have these structures lighted just right'... Nice shot'...
Thanks Mike,
Let's just say that the US Space Force at Cape Warrenaveral is on the side of Luke Skywalker!
Paul, the dealerships look great together! I know around here you can go down Auto Row and have every dealer of almost every car made right next to each other! Once again I love the night scene!
John, just checking, wanted to make sure there were no spy's that might have snuck there way on to base!
Great job everyone!
i just got my hands on some nice kits
here are some pictures from the first 2
these are two Ford V3000 trucks
the first pictures are from the model ready to paint
second from my second ford
Cor
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next kit i have started today, a autocar U8144T
from gasoline
Cor
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@moonlicht posted:next kit i have started today, a autocar U8144T
from gasoline
Cor
Cor. Very nice I have several conversations kits for the CCKW GMC one day I’ll post them. Been thinking of maybe starting one.
