Ballasting switches

DON'T do anything that interferes with moving parts. NEVER use any liquid product under or near electrical components of a switch that would touch the liquid like an Atlas O switch. NEVER.

You can ballast carefully so that the switch appears to be fully ballasted.

Scrappy

I prefer to NOT ballast and glue my switches as they are TOO expensive. If I decide to change my layout my cost will be limited to basic Gargraves track

My layout is made up of Lionel 0-27 style switches and Ross Switches. All are ballasted, all ballast is glued, never one single problem with electrical or ballast interference. 

All of the Gargraves switches on my TimerSaver layout and Ross Switches on our club modular layout are ballasted. Just be careful when working around the points. Tweezers are good for placing bits of ballast and a fine dropper is a good idea when gluing the ballast.

Gilly

I ballast and glue all my Gargraves track and Ross switches. Some of this track and switches have been on three layouts. I move my track and switches during the lifetime of the layout.

I use MTH Realtrax and after painting the switch flat brown I glue down the ballast except between the switch points.  I'm pretty carefull during the process to avoid getting any glue or ballast where they do not belong and have not experienced any problems as a result of ballasting.  I think it improves the overall appearance of the switch and to me it is worth the effort.  It really is just a matter of personal preference.  Here is a photo I posted on this week's Weekend Photo Fun and at the bottom of the photo you can just see a portion of one of the ballasted switches with another one off in the distance.  I'll see if I can find a better photo showing a ballasted switch.  Bo 

You can see more of my work on the Mid Atlantic Railway System on my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com 

yes, very, very carefully and no glue mix at the points.

Here's a better photo showing where it is I don't put ballast on my MTH Realtrax switches.  I took the photo while rearranging my track to create a switching (yard) lead.  The switching lead track was something I had omitted on my original plan.  I learned of it's importance after reading an article by Rich Melvin titled "What's a Switching Lead?"  From an operational standpoint the new switching lead has made a world of difference and has made working the Maryville yard much more realistic and fun.  But, I digress, here is the photo.  Bo 

You can see more of my work on the Mid Atlantic Railway System on my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

I ballast and glue it.... every switch, carefully. It takes a lot of time, be patient, and don't flood the area with the glue.

Very nice work.

I never ballast my switches.

I airbrush Floquil (the original, not the water based stuff), equal parts of RR Tie Brown & Rail Brown, with just a little grimy black. 

In my opinion railroad track, including switches should be ballasted to look authentic.

Bo...that is nice looking Realtrax. If you didn't specifically say that is what it was, I'd never guess. It looks THAT good. Nice website and photos there as well. 

Beautiful track Flanger...

I am again humbled by the craftsmanship of folks here.

SJC...thanks for the compliments on the track and the website.  When I started work on my railroad years ago I did not think I would be ballasting track, and went with Realtrax for it's rugged reliability more than appearance.  As time went on though I started to think differently about "realistic appearance" and began ballasting.  It is a time consuming chore, but it does improve the appearance.  To date, I've ballasted about 60 percent of the track.  

I appreciate your taking the time to look at my website which documents my work on the MARS.  I enjoy the website.  It is something I started doing after I retired as a way to document my progress, share stuff I learn with others, and help me focus on what it is I'm trying to accomplish with the railroad.  Not being all that computer/tech savvy the website has been a learning experience in itself.  Thanks again, Bo 

You can see more of my work on the Mid Atlantic Railway System on my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com   

Chris thanks, takes a 2 railer like yourself to fully appreciate it...

Bob

I don't know Bob, the look of scale ballasted track such as yours in the photo above is almost in a league all its own.  You've done a beautiful job!  I don't know enough about two rail O scale track to be able to say for certain, but the track in your photo looks handlaid.

I like that water tower as well!  Bo 

You can see my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

Thank you Bo. I checked your website, much to see and admire there, great way to spend retirement...very nice indeed.

Bob

Bob, thank you!  Bo 

As Dewey said, very very carefully! I literally used a Lionel shovel that came with a kit to place ballast as close as possible to the moving parts.

Cesar

Some Nice work. I think I will ballast outside the outer most rails. Hopefully it will draw the eye away from the non ballasted areas and hopefully provide a more trouble free operation and or removal for track changes.

Here's a good view of the ballasted switches on my TimeSaver layout.

These are all manual GarGraves switches with a custom blend of Woodland Scenics ballast.

Gilly

I do both 1 and 3 depending: if the switch is where I can't hide it well and easily then I ballast it, very carefully avoiding the moving parts.  Otherwise I prefer to hide it.  I don't worry one way or another about removing the switch: if I remove it I am unlikely to need another just like it (a revised track plan would need a different type or diameter curve, etc) so its not a priority in my decision.

I ballast all my switches very carefully keeping glue mix from the points/moving rails.

It is not difficult to remove old 50/50 glue mix from switches with hot water. The turnouts in the high speed crossover pictured on my former layout [below being dismantled] were cleaned and recycled onto my small attic layout with its 17 switches. Messy but not difficult!