Battery eliminator for Lionel Diesels!

And if you want it cheaper, you can buy it on eBay!   It's just a LM317 step-down regulator module with an input diode and larger cap to convert the AC to DC.

$5 for the first module, $1.50 for any more after the first.  Add a 50 cent diode and capacitor and you have all the parts.

eBay: 133236733656

The difference being, the circuit I listed is made in the USA, not China. It's not always about the money, I spend thousands on toy trains, so a few extra dollars to help a small family-owned American business is worth it to me.

Actually, the board is made in China, it's just adding the extra cap and diode that is assembled in the USA.  Not suggesting you change, just pointing out alternatives.

Don't get me wrong, I don't begrudge anyone using a small family-owned American business, believe me!  After all, I am such a business.

I designed one years ago that actually had the battery form factor using a shell like this:

https://ogrforum.com/...23#66610802182583723

I have a question for GunrunnerJohn:  What kind of diode and capacitor should I purchase to work with the LM317 step-down regulator module you mentioned above?

I have at least a dozen post war diesel and electric locomotives and would like to install a bunch of these.

A 1N4003 diode and a 470uf 35V capacitor would work well for that application.

Thank you sir!

Another question for gunrunnerjohn...

I purchased some of these boards, the capacitors and the diodes.  I assembled one.

I have a Lionel transformer connected which puts out 17 Volts AC to connected to the board (one lead to the Green/ground wire, the other to the Yellow/hot wire).  When I measure the DC voltage between the wire that should go to the positive battery connection (Blue), and the ground (Green), it measures 22 Volts DC.  I was expecting around 2 volts DC at the most.

There is no load on it when I do this.

Any advice on what I am doing wrong sir?  I cannot imagine that the load of a post-war bicycle style horn will drop the voltage that much, but I do not know.

Thank you in advance.

I don't know what board you purchased or how you connected it.  If you're talking about the variable power supply above, you do realize you have to set the voltage with the pot on the board, right?

Thank you for responding so quickly.

I purchased this board:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V...dt_b_product_details

I wired it exactly as the one I purchased from ebay was wired (the one in the photograph that BCianci posted at the top of this thread.

I tried turning the small screw on the board (as shown in one of the YouTube videos) but it had now effect on the DC voltage.

@RAK posted:

Another question for gunrunnerjohn...

I purchased some of these boards, the capacitors and the diodes.  I assembled one.

I have a Lionel transformer connected which puts out 17 Volts AC to connected to the board (one lead to the Green/ground wire, the other to the Yellow/hot wire).  When I measure the DC voltage between the wire that should go to the positive battery connection (Blue), and the ground (Green), it measures 22 Volts DC.  I was expecting around 2 volts DC at the most.

There is no load on it when I do this.

Any advice on what I am doing wrong sir?  I cannot imagine that the load of a post-war bicycle style horn will drop the voltage that much, but I do not know.

Thank you in advance.

@aRAK, The board usually comes set at a higher voltage ie: 22v or thereabouts. The screw on the board is deceiving, it takes many many turns to change voltage either in the + or - direction so don't be intimidated, keep turning that small screw with your voltmeter on the Vout connections to monitor the voltage change...

You have the diode and capacitor wired correctly yes?

Lastly, if you're turning the screw clockwise and not getting any change in the 22v, simply turn the screw counter clockwise, again, it will take many turns until  you see the voltage come down. You'll notice the adjustment become more accurate (sensitive) once you're below approx 12v. 

BCianci,

Thank you very much for the detailed information!

I assume that I am looking for about 1.5 volts DC when I get the potentiometer adjusted correctly?

Yes

Note that many of these boards have the pot wired backwards, so CW is lowering the voltage and CCW us raising the voltage.

Thank you both!

It took a lot of turning, but I now have two of these down to 1.6 volts DC!

I will test these in two locomotives then build the rest and gradually work through my post war collection.

Thank you both again!

I assembled six of these this morning, and installed and tested two.

Very cool little devices!

Thank you again gunrunnerjohn and BCianci,!

BCianci, thank you very much for this post.  My 2 SF f3s had been completely ignored since Mike Wolf's remotes and trains came into production.  One already had a complete horn conversion in it.  Dad's F3 that had been on the shelf had battery corrosion so I cleaned it up and ordered the Battery eliminator.

Is this battery elininator kit for just post war conventional operating Lionel locomotives or for the Lionel comand control Odyssey, Legacy, etc.?

Sorry if I'm missing the obvious!

Post war conventional, a battery eliminator for modern locomotives with RailSounds and battery provisions is the YLB - RailSounds Battery Replacement.

As always...Thanks for the info John!