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I've learned so much from this forum, I thought I would post some photos of something I have done that may help others.  I searched for years for a way to make a viaduct and couldn't find any solutions until Charlie Easton gave me this idea of stacking acoustic ceiling tiles.  Lowes and Home Depot always have damaged tiles.  I picked up a pack of 10, 2' x 4' tiles for $5.  The process takes a while but I think it is worth it.   The photos here, include one long, 6-7' viaduct and also a small, separate tunnel.  

I cut the tile into strips, the width I wanted, then glued them up vertically.  I then cut out the arch on my band saw.  Everything was then painted with Mod Podge to make it more rigid and less absorbent for stain later.  I then painted it with stain. The decorative stone around the arches is a mixture of the dust made when cutting the panels, mixed with Mod Podge.  That was then applied with a small putty knife.  Bragdon powder was used for the streaks and white glue covered with Woodland Scenics Turf made the climbing vines.  I can provide more detail if anyone is interested.

IMG_1029IMG_1032IMG_1034Viaduct-3Viaduct-4Acoustic tile tunnel-9Acoustic tile tunnel-11Acoustic tile tunnel-12

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  • Acoustic tile tunnel-12
Last edited by Kitbasher
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@Sean007,  here are some more photos of the construction process. Most of the photos here are explained in my original post.  Probably the only one that needs explanation is the first one.  It is a jig I made up to stack the layers and keep them aligned on the sides.  I cut blanks from wood to use at the end of alternating tiles so I could have interlocking sections.  This all made it more repeatable.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Viaduct-2IMG_1021IMG_1025

IMG_1026

Paul

"If you've lost a screw from your locomotive, it will be in the middle of your longest tunnel!"

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Last edited by Kitbasher
Kitbasher posted:

@Sean007,  here are some more photos of the construction process. Most of the photos here are explained in my original post.  Probably the only one that needs explanation is the first one.  It is a jig I made up to stack the layers and keep them aligned on the sides.  I cut blanks from wood to use at the end of alternating tiles so I could have interlocking sections.  This all made it more repeatable.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Viaduct-2IMG_1021IMG_1025

IMG_1026

Paul

"If you've lost a screw from your locomotive, it will be in the middle of your longest tunnel!"

Thanks Paul - I have some ceiling tiles to play with and I know where I can find some more. The building guys where I work stack up the broken tiles near our dumpster. 

I like the idea of using a jig. Thanks again.

The tile material is friable --it crumbles and flakes very much like stone. That is its great virtue. Use extruded foam if you want smooth surfaces like concrete or finished stone. Use tile if you want natural or rough-hewn stone. 

Lots of people use layers of broken tile to simulate layers of sedimentary rock. This is a great technique, but it is not the only one. I frequently take a single sheet of tile and carve random stone patterns onto its back surface and then mount the sheet vertically (the first picture in my post above was done that way). Any sharp tool (screwdriver, awl, etc) will work. I have also used various Dremel grinding and drilling tools. The shards of flaked-off material also makes nice stone rubble.

Last edited by Avanti

Pete,

Thanks. I was looking for a less expensive alternative to foam insulation board. I need to a make a brick viaduct for a Polar Express layout. The home stores carry mostly foil faced 2" board as that is what sells to contractors the most. So, sourcing has become tougher as well as the cost here in NJ.

This material look great for the stone viaduct and the technique is clever. 

@Wye me posted:

To Avanti,

I would very much appreciate if you could provide more detailed ‘how to’ techniques for making those realistic sedimentary rock facings. Your recommended model making guidelines for making it look so natural.

Walt,

I'll give it a shot:

It is really pretty simple, but there are a few tricks.

1) First and most important, break the tiles, don't cut them. Just snap each one apart and stack them. They will look pretty good right out of the gate. Glue them together with hot glue. Don't be too neat or regular in the stacking.

2) Study real stone formations as you drive down the highway. Looking at other modelers' work is all well and good, but getting a good feel for what blasted and natural rock faces really look like is better. In particular, look at all the imperfections -- gaps and unevenness in the beds, places where vegetation has gotten hold, variations in rock color and thickness, etc.

3) Keep in mind that even though all bedding planes were originally formed horizontally, you will rarely find them horizontal today. Over the eons, they have been squeezed, shifted, and folded every which way.

4) Don't be afraid to add a fault or two--places where a crack formed perpendicular to the bedding planes--possibly with a different pitch on each side of the crack.

5) Start by spraying an uneven coat of flat black paint. Trust me on this one. Just as you should end by dry-brushing with a bright white to simulate the glint of sunlight, you should start with a stark black to simulate the deep shadows that form in nooks and crannies on a sunny day.

6) Next, spray on your basic rock color with a very flat spray paint, most likely gray or light brown (or both). "Camo" spray paint colors are a good choice. As always, don't be too even or uniform. Cover the black, but not too well. Spray at an angle, so the crannies retain some visible 'shadows'.

7) Brush on some light patches of green and dark brown here and there. Cheap craft tempera paint is fine for this. End with the normal dry-brushed white.

8) Let the paint dry, spray on some dilute white glue, and sprinkle (or blow) on a mixture of sand, small gravel or kitty litter and something brown (dry coffee grounds are good). You are trying to simulate earth, rocks, and scree. Make sure that most of the material lands on the horizontal surfaces and in cracks that would naturally accumulate such stuff. Don't overdo it and don't be uniform. Nature is never uniform.

9) Add various sizes and colors of ground foam, bits of lichen from the bottom of the bag, and some stretched out flocking to simulate vines.

10) Maybe add a few struggling little trees or scrawny bushes here and there.

11) If its seems necessary, finish with another coat of dilute white glue to hold everything together.

12) Be sloppy and have fun.

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