I have two Burns Mfg. Train Detectors, p/n 241 and can not find them on the web.
Does anyone have instructions on how to connect it?
Has 6 wires and three screw terminals on it.
thanks,
bruce
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I have two Burns Mfg. Train Detectors, p/n 241 and can not find them on the web.
Does anyone have instructions on how to connect it?
Has 6 wires and three screw terminals on it.
thanks,
bruce
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I have one and most likely (knowing me) still have the directions too.
Unfortunately, I don't have a computer at home (use library's) so I'll have to wait til I get home, and back to the library, to answer. Unless you get one sooner!
No later than tomorrow morning for sure.
- walt
BTW: you might get more immediate help by posting this on the electronics sub-forum.
- walt
This guy operated out of a P.O. box #5301 in Rocky Point NY 11778.
I don't know if he is still around.
Black wire transformer hot.
Red wire transformer common.
Green outer rail common.
Orange center isolated rail hot
2 whites are for LED.
3 screws
center transformer hot
left screw turns acc on
right screw turns acc off
my contact info is old and I think they are out of business.
PO BOX 5301
Rocky Point NY 11778
tel 631 821 1644
email burnsmanu@aol.com
this device is a relay that is triggered by a current sensor.
the red and black wires power the unit.
the green wire goes to track common no fiber pins needed.
the orange wire goes to a isolated section of center rail. fiber pins on each end.
(remember no current draw in this section ie lighted lockon as it will activate device)
to activate a accessory connect accessory hot to center screw.
left screw to accessory hot will turn on right screw will turn accessory off.
attach accessory to accessory transformer common.
if it is a signal light 3 pins center pin to common
red light for block occupied left screw (must have current draw to activate lighted car etc) right screw to green light (no current draw)
In summary, the device is a current activated relay.
the center screw is the wiper and the left screw is N/O
and the right screw is N/C.
F&G RY: I went home and got my directions. Wish I could print the picture in the directions. Maybe tonight I'll take a picture of it and post that.
Your description matches to what I have. BUT.. you might want to add, in the even that it is not 100% intuitive, that you still have to connect the other post on the accessory to transformer ground to complete the electrical path.
- walt
You are right about common for the accessory.
I was careful about the advanced stuff because a current sensor is different than the trigger devices we are used too.
I think I explained the device so that that others with expertise but not familiar with Burns product can chime in now that they know what it does.
Biggest thing DO NOT MESS UP THE WIRES AS THE DEVICE IS RUINED RATHER QUICKLY.
Thanks, Jim.
Will try it.
bruce
I took some photos of the directions sheet. The pictures make it very clear how to wire. Jim: you description was well written. I didn't mean to imply that it wasn't if it came across that way.
I think if you click on each image a larger version comes up in a separate window. I think.
- walt
Walt no offense was ever taken.
Where can I purchase the burns manufacturing no. 241 at please?
Set a search on eBay to notify you when one comes up. Here's one that sold a few months ago.
However, as I understand it, this detects something drawing power rather than simple occupancy. So an engine will trip it but not unpowered cars. If this is the functionality you need, and you can't find a 241 in a timely fashion, post what you're trying to do in the Electrical Forum. If you are comfortable working at the component level (e.g., assembling/soldering electronic parts) you can DIY this functionality for far less than $25.
stan2004 is correct: the device notices current draw so only things that have lights or motors will it recognize.
I would consider selling mine since I don't use it anymore. Of course though, having only a Christmas layout, it's in storage right now. But I will be starting to set up mid-November so if you're still interested in mine, shoot me an email. Off hand I don't remember what I paid for it but I'll sell it to you for whatever I paid.
walt
Thanks Walt for confirming this indeed uses the current detection method. If you can't find the Burns unit and want off-the-shelf, take a look at Dallee Electronics which is still in business. They make a variety of current detection modules. For example,
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