I have an old canon 4.0 pixel camera i have the wide angle and telephoto lenses with it. It is digital am thinking about something newer so the more automatic the better as I am not a photographer. I think it is a AE-1 any suggestions. Chief
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It could not be an AE-1 since that was a SLR film camera from the '70's, the same vintage as the rest of Canon's A series of 35mm film cameras. The first of Canon's digital SLR cameras was the Rebel. For anyone to offer meaningful advice on a replacement camera you need to tell us what type of digital camera you want or at least how you're planning to use your new camera asnd how much you're willing to spend. They range from very inexpensive, yet quite capable compact point and shoot models with no ability to change lenses or add accessories to SRL cameras with a wide range of interchangeable lenses and accessories. Major manufacturers such as Canon and Nikon, etc. offer similarly priced models with similar features. There is a plethora of digital cameras nowadays so avoid impulse buying to avoid being disasppointed later on. You do not necessarily have to spring for a more expensive SRL model and pay for features you might never use. Many of today's point and shoot models have features similar to those in more expensive high end SLRs and are a lot less bulky in size. Shop around and whatever you do, do not allow a salesperson to influence your purchase by telling you the more megapixels the better. The most megapixels DOES NOT mean better with modern digital cameras. The size and type of sensor the camera has is a very important consideration and as always has been with any camera, film or digital, the most important part is the optics - the quality of the lense the camera has.
Model railroad photography is much less about the camera than the process.
The camera is only the recorder. Think about the types of photos you want to make.
You'll need to consider lenses, lighting, image processing, too.
A decent entry level digital "DSLR" can be put into auto mode and will give you options for advancement should you choose them.
Many of my photos were taken with a base level Canon Rebel.
Check them out at www.scaramouchephoto.com
E-mail me for some specific suggestions
Scrappy
Ogauge guy you are correct that is my old 35 mm camera.
Scher checked your photos that is one fantastic layout you have. chief
Scher is giving the best advice, I think. Buy a basic DSLR - I'd recommend around 10-12 Mpixels.
For the past several years I had Nikon S570 (cost about $130 three years ago) that I didn't really like. It had two dozen "photo modes" I could select within which it would then be automatic. I never knew which mode to put it in: most of the time it automatically took "nearly good" pictures but never really good. On the other hand, it took videos up to a minute long that made relatively compact video clip file sizes and were easy to upload to the forum, and they were always satisfactory.
So I just got - last Thursday - a Sony NEX-5N. The NY Times Techno section a few months ago called it the outstanding DSLR under $1000, etc. Sony reduced price last week and I got mine off Amazon for $500.
It takes, automatically, great pictures, but it is too much. 16 mpixels is nice, but 12 did fine before, and 10 would do. The lens is the size of an expresso cup and it has to have a big big battery compared to others, and so this is not a pocket camera by any means. All its many optional control features (it can vary any and everything if you want) are lost on me. And it takes movies (not videos, the manual makes a distinction as if it's proud of that) in some weird format with a big file size so they won't upload to the forum but have to be saved on Blu-Ray discs, the manual says. Its still new and I am learning it but I can already see I should have bought a sub-$200 basic automatic DSLR - it would have done as well and taken video clips i could upload, had I picked the right one
Thanks for the advice I really know nothing about cameras.
Get a Nikon D5100. You won't regret it. It's up a notch from entry level and the swivel screen will be worth its weight in gold for model train photography. Looks like Nikon is on the verge of replacing this model and the price has never been as low as it is right now.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/...ital_SLR_Camera.html
Pete
I have a Nikon D60 which is very nice. If you want a point and shoot camera that you can carry in your pocket try the Samsung WB150F. This little camera has 14.2 Mega Pixels, 18X zoom, 24mm wide angle, Wi-Fi and full manual if you so desire.
The Nikon cost me $800 and the Samsung cost $200.
Forum member Eddiem took his smart phone and was able to control my camera from a distance inside our museum.
It is time to get to know about cameras if you want to be satisfied and save money by getting the best one for your purposes.
I recommend you spend the next month learning on the web. One place to start is:
There are lots of others. Then go to camera stores and places like Target and Best Buy and others and feel them and listen to and ask questions of their best camera guy.
I become an expert in anything of cost that I buy, washing machines, cars, house, TV, you name it. I hate to impulse buy and then find out with some effort I could have gotten a better item for often less money that would have met my needs better.
Charlie
In case you can't justify DSLR price and you'd rather go the point-and-shoot route, you simply can't beat the amazing value Canon ELPH 300 right now.
It is time to get to know about cameras if you want to be satisfied and save money by getting the best one for your purposes.
I recommend you spend the next month learning on the web. One place to start is:
There are lots of others. Then go to camera stores and places like Target and Best Buy and others and feel them and listen to and ask questions of their best camera guy.
That Rockwell. He's a case but he pretty much knows his stuff. Beats the stuffing out of photoxels for dam sure. Speaks very highly of the Nikon D3200 and D5100. You can find some shots taken with the D5100 on this "long exposures" thread -
http://www.modeltrainjournal.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13583
Check out the whole thread, there's camera info and data for some of the photos on down the thread.
Pete
Don, I have the Nikon D-70s and it's still working well. What a work horse. I'm going to upgrade soon to a newer Nikon so I can use my same lenses. Don
I feel that one of the most important things is to find a camera that feels right in your hands. Most cameras on sale today are capable of taking good pictures, so you shouldn't have too much to worry about on that front. As has been mentioned above, sensor type, the physical sensor size, and quality of lenses have more bearing upon image quality than a high pixel count. I use two main digital cameras, a Nikon D3s for my more serious efforts, and for when it is appropriate to use a larger camera, and a Nikon P7000 compact which I normally carry around with me. The little compact gets used a great deal and is more capable than you might think. It's also a very handy alternative to a dedicated video camera.
If you don't want to be concerned with being able to change lenses, and want a camera that is pocketable, then there are many extremely capable compact cameras to choose from. If however, you have an interest in photography, and may wish to develop this more in the future, then a DSLR is probably a better bet for you, as once you decide upon a system, this can grow with you. In this case the choice of lens system may be your deciding factor as to which brand to buy. As you have existing lenses, you may wish to consider staying with that brand if you have several, and they are good quality lenses with mounts that are still in use.
But whichever route you take, find a camera that feels right in your hands, that you enjoy using, and will tend to carry with you and use often. Remember, you can't take that chance-in-a-lifetime picture if you don't have a camera with you.
If you want a DSLR, I would recommend a Nikon D5100 or their new D3200.
For a quality point and shoot with the same zoom that 3 DSLR lenses will cover, I would recommend the: Samsung wb150F 18x zoom, about $159 on sale, or the Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS19 or 20, a 20x zoom, about $199 or $229 on sale.
The point and shoots, specifically the Lumix, has almost all of the settings of a DSLR, like automatic, aperture preferred, shutter preferred and manual mode. It is a spectacular camera with a high quality Leica lens. Simple to use in auto-mode, but capable of SLR-like exposures if you want to learn more!
The only thing that the point and shoots are bad at is flash - can't fit a good one in a small case, but, for train photos on your layout, you don't want to use flash anyway.
Ed
Not sure what else you want to use your camera for, but, in addition to close-up shots, I take a lot of sports pictures of my kids with the canon SX40 HS with its phenominal 35x zoom. It takes great pictures and shoots crisp 1080p video.
Rick
We have standardized on Canon cameras here at OGR. I am currently using a T2i DSLR.
I am, by no means, an expert on cameras. But I have been using a Canon Power Shot A720 8 megapixel point & shoot camera and it takes a pretty good picture. It is almost idiot proof.
I'm looking to get either a Canon T3i or a Nikon D3200 for Christmas both are very good cameras. I'm looking to combine my older 8mm Canon video camera and to upgrade my 5.0 megapixel Minolta digital camera all within one unit. I also wanted a new camera that can shoot between 3-4 frames per sec. and record video in 1080p HD plus have the ability to shoot in low light and have interchangeable lens.
I wanted something that would work in taking pictures of both models and real trains in action.
One of the most important issues that arises when recommending a camera is, as I indicated above, that the creation of a good photograph involves more than simply a knowledge of the camera.
In the photos below you see two good examples of composition and one not so good.
The first two photos have an interesting theme and the eye is drawn to a clear subject. There is no "schmutz" in the photo, meaning there is little negative space. Negative space is what I describe as what you might see that does not help the photo.
Technically, the three photos have good exposure, they are well focused, and are color temperature corrected. So, therefore,the lighting was good, the photographer knew how to expose, and tried to get an indoor photo to have correct color to make the scene as realistic as possible. There is much to think about beyond which camera and lens.
The third photo has "subject" issues. It is an interesting scene (especially the sign with my mom on it) but it lacks "ooomph."
With a base level DSLR, you can control the lighting more accurately. You can add a flash and "bounce" if you do not have good room lighting or additional outboard lighting. With the point and shoot cameras, you often have the choice of flash on or off. Flash, pointed directly at the subject, usually kills the photo for reasons other photographers have explained. Read Dennis Brennan's excellent articles on model train photography for expert advice on setting up a scene and making a great photo. He is an expert.
So, a good camera . . . yes.
Several lenses . . . . particularly a good wide angle and a macro lens for closeups.
A tripod is absolutely critical. A good camera without a tripod means you probably will have little depth of field (what is in focus in the front and back).
The photos below were taken on our Munoz Lines by my good friend Gustav Verderber, incredible photographer and the "Official Kodak Yellowstone National Park Photographer." Look at his compositions.
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If all you are looking to do is point and shoot, you can always get a point and shoot, nothing wrong with that. A dslr will probably get you a little better photos on full auto mode than a point and shoot. I would ask yourself if you are going to try to learn photography or maybe you already know some things? Take that into account with the amount of money you want to spend. The best most expensive dslr camera on full auto mode, isn't going to be much better if at all than the entry level dslr camera on full auto mode. If you know about photography, the differences are all mostly in features on useability. The only main difference with dslr's now is if it has a smaller crop sensor, like a rebel, 7D, 50D etc. , or a full frame sensor like the 5D series. Unless you are really into photography or are going to get into it, I wouldn't even worry about that or look into that. Megapixels really aren't important at all, and all cameras new today are capable of all you need. A 10 or 12 mp camera can make a huge 20x30 image, clear as can be. In the end, to take great photos, you need to learn about photography, since cameras really don't know what they are doing, but people do! I recommend Canon, and I'm a pro photographer that makes all my money with photography. Good luck!
We bought a pair of Sony A55 cameras a few months ago as we had about $3,000 worth of auto-focus lenses that we used with our Minolta auto-focus cameras. (I don't know of anyone who would have thrown away that much investment in lenses just to change camera brands.)
We're still learning how to use all the different features, but here's a flash-less photo I took at 11 pm one nigh about a month ago using the automatic program in the camera along with the lens that came with it.
(I don't think it's a bad shot considering the Heritage locomotive was parked about 15 feet from a mercury sodium lamp across a four lane, undivided highway from where I was standing on the public right of way.)
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You have received some great advice insofar. As has been highlighted by several members, do not get caught up in Megapixels. From a professional perspective (relating to the fields I cover) I rarely use the full 21 MP my sensor will output, unless I am shooting something along the lines of either Architecture or Landscapes. Then I use the full range of my sensor, as I need to have every pixel available to output as detailed of an image as possible.
For most things which we as individuals like to capture, the need for more megapixels is not necessary. What is necessary is proper lighting and the right lens(es). Lighting & Lenses will do much more for you, than any amount of software knowledge such as when it comes to Photoshop/ Aperture/ Lightroom/ etc... I personally would rather get the image right in camera the first time, than go into to Photoshop and try and fix what I didn't correctly capture when I made the exposure. Beyond Lighting & Lenses, the next most important item is a tripod. Tripod's are not created equal. A cheap tripod typically will wobble & be heavier than a more expensive tripod. I'm not saying to go out and buy a $1200 tripod, but if your needing to support long lenses or get into positions due to space, then a more expensive tripod may be the way to go, as they typically have more functional flexibility. Aside from the Legs portion of the tripod, the next most important aspect is what type of head to purchase. There are ball-heads, 3-way Pan/ Tilt heads, and a few others. The type of head you purchase will truly be the deciding factor in how flexible you want your rig to be.
"Chief" you stated at the beginning that you had both a Wide Angle & Telephoto Lenses. Do those lenses have the wording "EOS or EF" on them? If they do, then they would be compatible with modern Canon Digital SLR's. If not, then you can start with a clean slate, and have a very wide spectrum to choose from.
Although a member stated, that the Rebel was Canon' 1st DSLR, that is not a correct statement. The 1st Canon DSLR was the EOS DCS 3, which came out in 1995 and was a joint venture with Kodak. Canon' 1st In-house DSLR was the EOS D30 which came out in 2000, 3 years before the Digital Rebel/ 300D. There are plenty of resources available to gain knowledge from, though most in the photo world do not tend to recommend Ken Rockwell. His reputation is well a bit inflated by his own ego & marketing. From what I've read, I would recommend Scrappy over Rockwell.
To get started in the Digital SLR world, you do not need to go out and spend $2000. You can buy used (not through Flee-bay), and get started for say around $500-$1000. The price will depend on what features your wanting/ needing/ or quality your looking for. For most beginners a Rebel T2i, T3i, T4i/ Nikon D3100, D3200, D5000, D5100 will in most cases be sufficient for what will be captured. But again having the right lenses will make a world of difference in the images.
Also, while it may be convenient to go to Best Buy, I would recommend buying at your nearest Brick & Mortar. Supporting the local Camera dealers not only gives them business, but it also helps you as an individual, in that you have a resource available if you need help or knowledge. Also try out several bodies, and only buy once your comfortable with a body that feels comfortable in your hands. A lot of people buy a camera body because their friends tell them that it is the best one, but that is usually just an opinion. A camera is an investment. Do it right the first time, so that your not spending more money at a later time.
Also on a side note, if you are looking for a Video Camera & a still camera, buy one of each. While DSLR's like my Canon 5DMKII do indeed shoot video, they do not auto-focus and track subject movement. You have to manually focus, if the subject moves closer or further away. Also most DSLR's will only record up to 4GB per clip which is roughly about 20 minutes @ Maximum Quality. From a video standpoint, I would recommend buying a Good Quality Video Camera.
On a side, Scrappy you have a very clean website. I dig it.
If you do go with an SLR don't skimp on the lens. While you may update the body a good lens will last you forever. When it comes to model train photography I'd recommend a swivel head flash. There are some good knockoffs that can be found for very reasonable prices. A good flash which you can bounce off the ceiling will help make your pictures pop in badly lit basements or train rooms. Finally don't forget to buy a sturdy tripod. If you plan on investing a few hundred dollars into a camera it doesn't make sense to skimp out and buy a cheap tripod. Good luck in the search!
A timely request for information: happens every year. A true show, professionally run. Free to all those savvy who know how to preregister & fill out a form: http://www.photoplusexpo.com/. There is no substitute for hands on judgement.
My preference: Panasonic Lumix FZxx series. (ie FZ60/62) Leica glass, priced right, only trick is finding supply ... ...
If you do go with an SLR don't skimp on the lens. While you may update the body a good lens will last you forever. When it comes to model train photography I'd recommend a swivel head flash. There are some good knockoffs that can be found for very reasonable prices. A good flash which you can bounce off the ceiling will help make your pictures pop in badly lit basements or train rooms. Finally don't forget to buy a sturdy tripod. If you plan on investing a few hundred dollars into a camera it doesn't make sense to skimp out and buy a cheap tripod. Good luck in the search!
For a quality point and shoot with the same zoom that 3 DSLR lenses will cover, I would recommend the: Samsung wb150F 18x zoom, about $159 on sale, or the Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS19 or 20, a 20x zoom, about $199 or $229 on sale.
The point and shoots, specifically the Lumix, has almost all of the settings of a DSLR, like automatic, aperture preferred, shutter preferred and manual mode. It is a spectacular camera with a high quality Leica lens. Simple to use in auto-mode, but capable of SLR-like exposures if you want to learn more!
The only thing that the point and shoots are bad at is flash - can't fit a good one in a small case, but, for train photos on your layout, you don't want to use flash anyway.
I stand by my original suggestion - not expensive, no need for additional lenses (20x zoom), auto for beginners, but manual (Panasonic Lumix) for an amateur who wants to learn about f-stops and shutter speeds. If the OP becomes an expert at this point and shoot, there's always room for a move up to a DSLR, with the P&S as a backup/travel camera.
Ed
For posting on FB all you need is a phone camera. When I use my 46" HDTV to show my pics you can really see the quality difference. All depends what you want to do with your pics. As others have said most $250 cameras will be very good at 20" x 30" size prints. A 4 MP camera is all you need for for posting on the web.
Yes, the phones have hurt the low end camera sales.
Dan