Central Locomotive Works SD40-2 Instructions

I have the full construction/assembly instructions (10 pages) for a "Locomotive Works" O-Scale SD-40/SDP-40...  Please note that Jan Lorizen's "Locomotive Works" is a different company than "Central Locomotive Works"...

 

Is this what you are looking for?

Steve,

Check with the Research Desk at the Kalmbach Memorial Library.

 

Matt

Thanks Questor and Old Goat for your replys.  The model I have was manufactured by Central Locomotive Works at least that's what it says on the box, so Questor I don't think your kind offer will work for me but thank you.  I'll check with the Research Desk at the Kalmbach Memorial Library.  Thanks again,  Steve

I have the full construction/assembly instructions (10 pages) for a "Locomotive Works" O-Scale SD-40/SDP-40...  Please note that Jan Lorizen's "Locomotive Works" is a different company than "Central Locomotive Works"...

Jan's co was called Locomotive workshop NOT locomotive works so as to avoid any confusion.

I knew this forum was going to be good, the brain trust is awesome.  Interseting history on CLW, hopefully the new owner will come out of hiding!! 

 

I purchased a 2 rail ALCO PA at a recent swap meet here in Phoenix.  Any ideas who manufactured this model?  The front end is cast bronze and the rest of the body is highly etched brass.  SteveO59

 

 

You have a CLW model.

I did not know the transfer switcher was made in all cast.  I do know that the above PA was second- generation.  The first ones were all cast, with a better nose in oh- so- many different ways.

 

Smith did get the Northern in to production.  I have one, and have seen many others.  It is an outgrowth of the Scale Craft Northern, and has no prototype.  If you work real hard, you can make it in to a 17/64 scale FEF-1.

 

 

A piece of unsolicited advice for kit purchasers.  I have this vague feeling, based on kits I have worked with, that any kit you buy that has not been very carefully inventoried will be missing a critical part.  Bob was always quick to replace wrong or missing parts, but he is not doing that any more.  My experience is pretty much 100% on the few kits I have been privileged to work on.  Anybody need a left- hand Transfer truck side frame?   I have two, and would need one of each to complete the truck set.

If you post a pic of the drive we can narrow down which run that was. I have an ABBA set that Lou (new owner of CLW) repowered. They could pull a brick )@)"@$$ house!

In it's last year of ownership by Bob Smith CLW produced a photo etched center cab Baldwin transfer diesel.  I understand Capitol area O scaler Bernie Gallagher built one., Bernie built a significant number of PS4's for himself and others.

 

Ed Rappe

I heard that Bernie did all the patterns for the lost wax/etched version.

I had to put the model together in order to get a picture of the drive assembly as I was polishing the body, trucks, and everything else I could get to.  Railroad-guy, I posted some pictures of the drive assembly for your input.  I'm very impressed on the engineering design and thought that went into the truck suspension and articulation, seems the whole assembly can float in three dimensions. 

 

I've posted some pictures of the PA after polishing and I really like the contrast between the bronze and brass.  The etching on the body is very detailed and sharp, grant you I'm a novice when it comes to brass trains and this may have been common when this model was offered but I'm still very impressed.

Looks very good polished.  I like it.  Those are intermediate designs, and I bet they are as good as they get.  Earlier ones were huge brass blocks, unsprung, and the very last were engineering plastic with chain drop-down.

That's a nice PA    So what did you use on the nose casting to clean it up? 

It's appears to be mid run. Not the first but not the last. The last runs in the 70's had the engineering plastic gear boxes.

 

Lou took mine and remotored using a can to replace the open frame and also used his newest drive system.

 

The last image shows two units that I got at an auction and have your drive in them.

 

 

 

 

 

For castings, you start with files, graduate to sandpaper, then finally jeweler's rouge.

The castings took the most work.  I used 80-100 grit sanding blocks to even out the roughness of the catings, and graduated to finer and finer grits ending with a 400.  I purchased a buffing wheel from Harbor Freight for 38 dollars.  It was on sale and I couldn't resist.  The buffing wheel was very useful for cutting and polishing the body and truck castings.  For the finer details, I used MAAS metal polish with cotton balls and q-tips, very time consuming but for me therapy!!  Before I began, I soaked the brass pieces in a mixture of lime/lemon juice, water, and salt.  This removed most of the oxide which had built up over the years.

 

 

I like the ABA set-up.  I was thinking about scratch building a "B" unit since I doubt I would find a "B" unit for sale.  The remotored work that Lou did is very clean.  I have heard that chain drives are very good.  I'm probably going to give some thought on adding fixed bolsters and a sub/frame plate after seeing your configuration, very nice!  Do you know if the fan ever had screen mesh over it on either the A or B units? 

 

I have an unpowered B unit that I would part with. Drop me a note if you want pix. Yes, they all came with wire mesh grills for the fans. Dan

I have a PRR M1A or maybe an M1 which I have not been able to identify the  manufacturer.  Does anyone have an idea who manufactured this?

 

 

Scratchbuilt.  And very nicely done.  All Nation drivewheels.

Your model is of a PRR M1.  The primary spotting feature is that M1a and M1b class 4-8-2's had inside steam delivery pipes, yours has external ones. The builder apparently modified the chassis to handle sharp curves as he filed the lower corners of the cylinders to clear the leading truck flanges.  An alternative leading truck mounting approach (used on MG and Westside M1’s) would be to attach the truck via a mounting bolt sitting in the center of the truck, with an arch shaped hole in it.  If you need a PRR slat pilot I have a very nice Weaver/Samhongsa casting that I was going to eBay – email me off line and I’ll send you a photo of it.  M1’s trailed both short and long tenders in several different classes.  Suitable tenders pop up on eBay from time to time.  A good site for PRR steam photo research is: http://www.northeast.railfan.net/prr_steam8.html

 

Ed Rappe

Thanks Ed, I sent you an email.