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I have tumbled wheels removed from the trucks with good results. I used rouge walnut media. You just need to wipe them off well after you’re done. I recommend cutting short pieces of coat hanger and stringing the wheels  together loosely on them, then bending the ends over to keep them on the “skewer”. At least, that’s the size wire that worked for Std Ga. Otherwise, the walnuts make it into the hollow wheels through the axle holes. You’d be amazed at how it packs in there, then you need to pick it out enough to get the axle back through. My first run at this resulted in wheels that rattled like maracas when you shook them. Once in, it never comes out. That’s OK  as the cars make more than enough noise to drown it out.

Hollar,

The electrolysis method is tried and true.   Many gunsmiths use it to remove rust from used valuable gun parts that they want to recycle.  Thanks for posting the mechanics.

And yet,  I think that the cost of a small container of Rust-Off is about the same as the cost of the 5 or 6 rebar stakes, the nuts, the welding materials, etc.   Plus, you can use the same Rust-Off over and over and over.

Mannyrock

@C W Burfle posted:

One more thing, I have wire brushes for my Dremel. I end up with a mess from the wires coming off and going everywhere. If I wear only socks in my workshop, I am picking wire out of my socks for months.

I'm picking the wires out of my feet .

I'll raise you one wife on that.  Somehow one of those threads got on the floor upstairs from the shop.  She was not happy to have her husband who is an expert in removing small things from skin with tweezers employ that skill on her foot.

@C W Burfle posted:

One more thing, I have wire brushes for my Dremel. I end up with a mess from the wires coming off and going everywhere. If I wear only socks in my workshop, I am picking wire out of my socks for months.

I'm picking the wires out of my feet .

The solution is a matter of good aim.  Now I always hold the wire brush in a position that will cause those flying wires to land on the work bench.

Not sure if they're magnetic, but I try to keep my locomotive work to 1949 and before - no Magnetraction.

In all the talk about rust, I haven't seen any mention of acetic acid - 7% solution.  It's also called white vinegar.  I keep a gallon jug ($2.99) in my cleaning area.

I'm finding that rusted parts left in vinegar overnight will clean right up with a stiff brush or a Dremel wire brush at medium speed.  Sometimes there will be light rust on the iron/steel surfaces after they dry, but I've found that comes right off with gentle wire brushing or WD-40. 

BTW,  Wouldn't do this if I don't want to risk damaging good paint, but that's usually not present on stuff that is rusted enough for the vinegar treatment.

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