Lionel Conventional 0-6-0 Dockside Switcher Smoke Unit Again

Well there is the mistake- leaving the sleeve around the resistor. Removing that is near top of the list for improving smoke units.

@Vernon Barry posted:

Well there is the mistake- leaving the sleeve around the resistor. Removing that is near top of the list for improving smoke units.

Thanks Vernon,

That's a start.  Any ideas about the fluid down the hole issue?

John

@Craftech posted:

Thanks Vernon,

That's a start.  Any ideas about the fluid down the hole issue?

John

I wouldn't replace the O-ring, nor get wrapped around the axle about fluid getting into the piston area.

We use non-conductive fluids that are generally safe, so while annoying to get fluid around, it's just something that happens and even more so with "puffer" units due to the pulsing bi-directional airflow. Even the check valves are never sealing 100% in usage in this app. You get positive and negative airflow and pressure- just how it works with a piston.

@Vernon Barry posted:

I wouldn't replace the O-ring, nor get wrapped around the axle about fluid getting into the piston area.

We use non-conductive fluids that are generally safe, so while annoying to get fluid around, it's just something that happens and even more so with "puffer" units due to the pulsing bi-directional airflow. Even the check valves are never sealing 100% in usage in this app. You get positive and negative airflow and pressure- just how it works with a piston.

So it sounds like you don't think smoke fluid around the piston matters much for air flow.  It does seem to be quite a loose fit right now.

John

@Craftech posted:

So it sounds like you don't think smoke fluid around the piston matters much for air flow.  It does seem to be quite a loose fit right now.

John

My last experience with one of these was a seized piston to the bore. In that case, the user was using tap water for smoke fluid- they thought it was a steam engine- so real steam.

Even if air leaks around the piston this isn't trying to create high pressure, just blow some air. I have a hard time imagining an O ring somehow making a difference.

No, I think another problem and won't know until you remove the sleeve around the resistor, if it's the ceramic coatd kind- that's the other reason in my experience for lesser smoke.

VS

A bare wire wound resistor tends to smoke better, but to my knowledge, they are hard to find and buy in a 20-22 Ohm rating in the 3-5W range for correct size in the bare wire would core (always the square ceramic or coated types).

Per your previous post topic- I think you failed to get the info on the better version, you have to buy resistors with the square white housing, and then crack them off to expose the resistor. Again, the ceramic smooth coated ones, I never knew anyone successful at removing that smooth coating and not breaking the resistor. The square ones- much easier to crack with better success rate.

Read this topic and link https://ogrforum.com/...3#140371140180897403

@Vernon Barry posted:

No, I think another problem and won't know until you remove the sleeve around the resistor, if it's the ceramic coatd kind- that's the other reason in my experience for lesser smoke.

VS

A bare wire wound resistor tends to smoke better, but to my knowledge, they are hard to find and buy in a 20-22 Ohm rating in the 3-5W range for correct size in the bare wire would core (always the square ceramic or coated types).

Per your previous post topic- I think you failed to get the info on the better version, you have to buy resistors with the square white housing, and then crack them off to expose the resistor. Again, the ceramic smooth coated ones, I never knew anyone successful at removing that smooth coating and not breaking the resistor. The square ones- much easier to crack with better success rate.

Read this topic and link https://ogrforum.com/...3#140371140180897403

Great read Vernon.  Thanks.

I cut the sleeve off.  Fortunately it's the bare wire wound type.   I may buy some square ceramic wire wound resistor and crack them for fun as John described in that post you linked.   I'll clean up the resistor a little and try to repack the torch wick material a little better.

Thanks again,

John

Update:

1. Resistor Sleeve cut off.

2. Piston o-ring replaced with a Silicone O-ring 14mm x 12mm x 1mm which is very slightly larger by maybe .5mm

3. Thin film of Molycote 33 Light on piston and cylinder.

4.  Tiki torch wicking carefully wound around the inside leaving the "puff hole" free .

5.  Resistor resting on the wicking slightly embedded.

Results:  Amazing.   It's a significant amount of smoke which is actually blowing smoke rings as it puffs.

Thanks for the fantastic help with this. 

John