conventional units and slow speed operation

I use the diode method,described here

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Bl...=488&categoryId=

I would stick with a pure sine wave transformer to avoid compatibility issues

Dale H

What specific diode would be needed? I know you stated 6 amp, but is there a voltage as well? Can these same diode pairs be used to drop the voltage at the track power connections to slow speeds on downgrades?

Rather than modify each locomotive, get a transformer that starts out at or near zero volts. That pretty much rules out Post War transformers. The only one I know for sure that does that is the MTH Z4000 but I am sure there are many more that I don't have experience with that fits the bill.

Pete

 I agree with Dale H. The diode method works great. I have done a couple and they really run slow. Will also give you an increase in smoke output on steamers.  Not hard to do and quite inexpensive. Tom

The KW transformer has a 0-14 option.

6 amp,50 volt or more is fine.

here is a good buy on the Bay for example

www.ebay.com/itm/50x-6Amp-1KV-...;hash=item1e7ac7a651

www.ebay.com/itm/6A10-6A-1000V...;hash=item5d3071fcfb

Dale H

Some E units will not work on 1 or 2 volts,at least 5 is needed for some.

Dale H

Electrical pickup in 3-rail is usually a non-issue, and all of those locos have inexpensive can motors.  The key is the Gear Ratio.  Many 3-rail locos are geared for "Toy Train" top speeds, because that was the norm for so many years.

Whichever of your locos makes the most revolutions per inch of travel, will probably have the best slow-speed performance.  You can find out by taking the shell off and turning the flywheel by hand.  Put a little mark on one driving wheel and see how many turns it takes for one revolution of the drivers.  It might be fun to find out the gear ratios for yourself.

For any steam loco to run well, the driving wheels have to be quartered correctly and the running gear must be free of binds.  I've heard some good things about the Lionel S-2.  Let us know what you find!

A side note.  The Atlas SW units are very good slow operation units.

Hi

if they are using can motors, remove the reverse unit and use pure DC.

Andre.

I think I replied to an e-mail from you about this earlier this morning.  You will get a lot of information here and all manner of suggestions that are good from the perspective of those making the suggestions, but might not match your needs.  I have never used the MRC Tech AC unit but have heard good things about them.  I have used MRC Tech products (only DC, for N gauge and to power my 'Streets) and they are fine units.  I would not use a pure sine wave power unit as Dale H recommends unless you also use the diode (rectifier) modification he has outlined: I have an old (1950s) Marx pure AC unit that I play with sometimes and the method Dale recommends makes a noticeable difference in how well locos run slowly with it.

Lee

I read the OGR review of the new ZW. Though a fine transformer,there were problems with some older reverse units. I have hundreds of engines with various electronics. Not sure what the original poster has. The CW does not work and play well with PS 1.  Pure sine wave is the only universal system for 3 rail. 

Dale H

My layouts have TPC 300 and TPC 400 controllers on them. You can instantly start out at 30% power, or even 100% power. They throttle down to almost nothing. Everything works well on them, but you will never get an old universal motor to run smoothly at a slow speed without stalling.