Cruise Commander M install

Pin-24 on the R2LC is where the serial data lives.  If you use an ohmmeter on pin-24 of the R2LC, you can hunt round for the serial data.  You can also take the easy way out and simply connect the serial data to the R2LC motherboard on the pin-24 position.

          <Click on graphic to enlarge>

https://ogrforum.com/...nections%20R1.31.pdf

For serial data required for Cruise M to function.

Your board and wiring.

On your 691-PCB1-0B9 motherboard, your wire is green but it's all about the position NOT wire color.

Never go on wire color alone. Go by wire position in a connector.

Thank you guys, I suspected that it was position over color but I needed verification

Is it really possible that all I had to do is plug in the connectors slice for the serial data and mount the board and this will work? It seems to simple so now I am worried that I missed something. Plus the isp port/connector has two black wires that I have not done anything with. Do I leave them alone or connect them to something to make the cruise feature work? That is the whole reason that I am doing this is to get cruise.

Thanks

@terryd73 posted:

Is it really possible that all I had to do is plug in the connectors slice for the serial data and mount the board and this will work? It seems to simple so now I am worried that I missed something. Plus the isp port/connector has two black wires that I have not done anything with. Do I leave them alone or connect them to something to make the cruise feature work? That is the whole reason that I am doing this is to get cruise.

Thanks

Dont fire it up yet, …..put up some pics of what you did, and let’s take a look and make sure you got it right,……it’s easy to find the magic smoke if you hook something up wrong,……and a cruise M is full of it,……😁

Pat

Will get pics soon

Thanks

@terryd73 posted:

Is it really possible that all I had to do is plug in the connectors slice for the serial data and mount the board and this will work? It seems to simple so now I am worried that I missed something. Plus the isp port/connector has two black wires that I have not done anything with. Do I leave them alone or connect them to something to make the cruise feature work? That is the whole reason that I am doing this is to get cruise.

If you're replacing the non-cruise DCDR, that's all that's required.  Plug the two existing plugs in, connect one wire to serial data, and fire it up and program it.

What's this ISP Port/Connector you speak of with the black wires?

First off Gunrunner I miss spoke it is the ICSP connector and the instructions call it optional. It is for switching the cruise feature off and on I think. Since I want it on always do I even need that plug?

I took it back apart and took pics and will wait for the experts advice before I put power to it. If it looks OK I will solder the serial data splice and shrink wrap it and then reassemble after I tidy up the wiring.

Thank you guys for your input!

I've never used the connector for the cruise switch, you can do that from the remote.

BTW, in the future, consider posting larger pictures, hard to see what you have with those.  I'm an old guy with poor eyesight.

Where are you going with what looks like a green wire next to the serial wire in the J4 connector?…pin #2 on the J4?……the other end ain’t in your pics,….

Pat

Also agree with John, you can just ditch the ICSP connector altogether, ….it’s not needed…

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Where are you going with what looks like a green wire next to the serial wire in the J4 connector?…pin #2 on the J4?……the other end ain’t in your pics,….

Pat

That is my next question, the instructions say Pin 2 Serial Data OUT to sound system  Where does it go? (not shouting I copied and pasted)

I did power it up and it runs in conventional mode with chuffing sound but no bell or whistle or cab chatter, and I cannot get my DCS remote to communicate with it. What should I be doing next?

@terryd73 posted:

That is my next question, the instructions say Pin 2 Serial Data OUT to sound system  Where does it go? (not shouting I copied and pasted)

I did power it up and it runs in conventional mode with chuffing sound but no bell or whistle or cab chatter, and I cannot get my DCS remote to communicate with it. What should I be doing next?

I’ve never used pin #2 on the J4 connector on a steam engine, ….where did you hook it up to?….as far as erratic operations, sometimes the serial data can be corrupted by the M ( basically sucking down all the data stream) ….you may have to add a serial buffer to pump up the serial line ……it happens sometimes,…..

Pat

I did not hook it anywhere, I was just going to wrap it up with the rest of the wires. Reading previous posts it appears that I need to find someone with a cab1 remote to address and “set” the feature number? All I have is DCS, I do rum several other TMCC locomotives without issues but they are not ERR equipped. I was thinking about posting on here looking for someone in North East Oh that has a CAB 1 TMCC set up that can help. I will call  LHS tomorrow and see if they can help me.

@terryd73 posted:

I did not hook it anywhere, I was just going to wrap it up with the rest of the wires. Reading previous posts it appears that I need to find someone with a cab1 remote to address and “set” the feature number? All I have is DCS, I do rum several other TMCC locomotives without issues but they are not ERR equipped. I was thinking about posting on here looking for someone in North East Oh that has a CAB 1 TMCC set up that can help. I will call  LHS tomorrow and see if they can help me.

Yep,…you need to set it to R100,….somebody with a legacy remote can do it in seconds,….

Pat

OK thank you, I will try to find someone local that has one. If I need a buffer as you mentioned, is that something a novice can install and where would I get one?

You say nice things to me.   Improved R2LC/R4LC Serial Data Buffer.  I did these a couple years back.

Update, took it to LHS about 25 miles away and in 30 seconds he set the address and features and it took about another 2 minutes to add it to his DCS and test it. It works great and the cruise does exactly what I wanted. Thank you guys! The only issue and I can live with it, is that the front marker lights don’ seem to work. I plugged them in to their original plug on the Lionel board but they do not come on.
Now I wonder if I should shop for a cab1 remote so that I could do this myself in the future.