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While mostly a visitor on this forum, I have received some valuable advice and direction so wanted to give back a bit.  Grew up running trains with my dad and brother and recently got back into the hobby.  My lines of choice are Illinois Central (Gulf) or Illinois Terminal, and over the course of collecting I have come across photos of odd IC stock, or happened to want a car that went discontinued or was never produced, etc.  So I have been doing a bit of custom work, a few on this forum would call it 'fantasy paint' jobs.  I don't claim accuracy in decals, just having some fun.  Thought some of the work might lead to inspiration for others. 

 

Not the best custom work I have seen on this forum, but something to do on a long weekend.

 

Here's one of the projects, saw a nice ICG F3 engine which I had never seen any of the manufacturers offer:

 

 

ICG_original

 

So I took a crack at repainting a nice Lionel B unit TCA engine:

 

 

ICG_paint1

ICG_paint2

ICG_paint3

ICG_paint4

Attachments

Images (5)
  • ICG_original
  • ICG_paint1
  • ICG_paint2
  • ICG_paint3
  • ICG_paint4
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Way to go. Worked for them (ICG/GM&O-side) for 15 years. Never though the orange and white was very attractive, but it brings back some good memories and I've come to, if not "like" it, at least to "enjoy" it. I've wanted to do an ICG F-unit. Maybe this will get me to do it.

 

I do have an orange/white MTH ICG SD-40 and a Williams ICG NW-2.

Also, their later gray/orange lettering scheme was really sharp, but short-lived.  

Last edited by D500

To get the ILLINOIS CENTRAL GULF ACF Center Flow 3560 Cu. Ft. 3-bay covered hopper they will have to strip and repaint the Lionel Erie-Lackawanna and ADM BioProducts ACF Center 3-bay covered hoppers made by Lionel in the 1990's. Those schemes had several errors in graphics and were road numbers for larger cars. The ADM BioProducts scheme is not even a real ADM scheme.

 

So, everybody, which is the safest material to strip the paint off a Lionel plastic body ACF Center Flow 3560 CU FT 3-bay covered hopper. First the trucks have to be removed.

 

 

 

 

IMG_9002

Attachments

Images (1)
  • ILLINOIS CENTRAL GULF 3560 CU FT 3-bay covered hopper
Originally Posted by falconservice:

To get the ILLINOIS CENTRAL GULF ACF Center Flow 3560 Cu. Ft. 3-bay covered hopper

 

I've seen this photo online in a few places, it's a nice unique looking car.  If you get the repaint done please post some photos.

 

My technique of painting over original paint schemes is not great, and instead of using a brush I should go buy an airbrush and learn to use it.  To date I have not stripped any paint off, instead have just painted over.   Some fine detail on doors etc can be lost owing to buildup of paint coats, but it has not been detracting enough for me to be concerned.  I find many newer cars with printed graphics can be painted over once in black and then in color.  That's how most of these are done which I have posted.  Early Lionel cars with raised paint graphics tend to work better if sanded prior to overpaint.  A paint stripper in that case may have worked better.  

Of the ICG paint schemes my favorite is the grey and orange and before I found out that Weaver offered the paint job below, I repainted an old Lionel IC GP9

 

 

ICG_B1

ICG_B2

 

 

ICG_B3

 

 

Here I left the IC orange cab original and it was a bit tough to match the orange with commercial paint, doesn't look terrible, but it might lead me to repaint with a better match down the road.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • ICG_B1
  • ICG_B2
  • ICG_B3

Each shot reminds me what a joy it is to redo or do your own scheme based on a RR you really like. I also get a lot from painting. I owned an airbrush a long time ago, and getting back into it a couple of years ago found me using spray cans. A lot of caution needs to be used that way, but EASY OFF oven cleaner will get the paint off shells without harming the plastic, so spray 'bombs' can give a satisfying result. I'm going to get an airbrush one of these days, tho'...Easy-Off is cheap and works well with a stiff toothbrush to get the paint off.

The latest inspiration was a photo showing a line up of various IC paint schemes with the trailing diesel having an all orange paint scheme with low profile ICG.

 

 

Burnt_orange_original

 

 

While I have not ever seen any manufacturers offer an IC calf, I wanted to incorporate one somehow, so painted an MTH original to look like this:

 

 

Burnt_orange_1

Burnt_orange_2

Burnt_orange_3

 

Here's one in real life:

 

 

ICG-1441-MEM-6-87

Attachments

Images (5)
  • Burnt_orange_original
  • Burnt_orange_1
  • Burnt_orange_2
  • Burnt_orange_3
  • ICG-1441-MEM-6-87
Last edited by Ed42

Easy off does work well. The cheaper "oven cleaners" seem to remove paint and dont harm plastic. Watch out though, as some "degreasers" will even eat into die cast metal! I've used say a broken cheap caboose shell or the extra plastic from a building kit and put it in whatever you plan to use to make sure it won't soften or melt the plastic.

The Lionel ADM BioProducts ACF Center Flow 3560 Cubic Foot covered hopper.

 

 

 

The Illinois Central Gulf ACF Center Flow 3560 Cubic Foot Covered Hopper.

 

The paint needs to be removed on the plastic body of the model using Weaver Models Scalecoat  Wash Away. 

 

The 3-bay hopper has to be repainted very light gray.

 

Decals have to be custom made for this O Scale model.

IMG_3708

Andrew IMG_9227

Attachments

Images (2)
  • LIONEL ACF CENTER FLOW 3560 CU FT covered hopper
  • ILLINOIS CENTRAL GULF ACF CENTER FLOW 3560 CU FT covered hopper
Originally Posted by Sam Jumper:

I'm not sure if this will work. I've always thought of trying to model these cars. It wouldn't fit through tunnel portals, so I never stuck with it.

This is a nice idea also, your link shows

 

 

hopper_load

 

 

 

This reminded me that Weaver had advertised this car:

 

 

weaver

 

 

and it further reminded me of an HO custom job I had seen on ebay a long while back which I really thought looked fantastic but as I'm in O, I passed

 

 

 

wreck1

 

wreck2

Attachments

Images (5)
  • hopper_load
  • weaver
  • wreck1
  • wreck1
  • wreck2
Originally Posted by Mike D:

I really like that F unit. Brings back memories of going to visit my grandparents in Jefferson Heights, LA.  The road passed over a large ICG yard that was full of white and orange locos.

Thanks for the note, it's nice to hear of people who have real world experience with IC/ICG.  I grew up in Monticello which is  where the Illinois Railway Museum is and they have some IC stuff there.  Was out of the hobby for a long time and now being out of Illinois, this is a way for me to stay connected to my roots.   During collecting I have come to realize that the line has heavy ties outside Il to other places like LA which leads to your memories.  Very cool.

Originally Posted by EMD:
Ed, I like that orange/grey GP.

What was the timeframe for that paintjob?
The orange and grey probaly took 2 days total but would be more if you did a bit of work here and there over a longer week.  The original Lionel factory raised IC lettering had to be sanded off which is a quick job, and now I know to put a base coat of black over the entire body which I hadn't done at the time on that specific job.  This helps with overcoats of lighter oranges.  I left the cab orange from the factory and the color was a bit hard to match for the rest of the orange, though it was close enough for me.  I use acrylic paints with brushes (optimally not the best choice, but again works for me) so the orange takes between 6 and 8 coats to not show through, and the grey takes about 4-5 coats.  The trucks and undercarraige are painted grey, and the body was grey also.  The lettering for ICG was done by printing out several ICG fonts and sizes and then cutting out the letters from a piece of paper leaving the outline of the letters on the paper.  I then taped this cutout stencil to the body and carefully painted the ICG orange over the grey body paint.  There was the need to touch up a bit to make true, but I think it came out as good as decaling.   All told I would say the project could be completed in a weekend if you are painting once an hour when the dries.  I work fast since I have a short attention span for projects and like to complete them. I then coat the entire thing in matte varnish to protect the paint and mask any shine from the decals.
Last edited by Ed42

Here are two items I did not paint myself but purchased from other collectors, a Lionel caboose which was repainted.  Not sure whether you would have ever seen a black and orange caboose like that but it was unique.  While you can get a black NW2 from weaver or MTH, the guy I bought this NW2 from had redone another Lionel

 

 

caboose_B_1

caboose_B_2

NW2

Attachments

Images (3)
  • caboose_B_1
  • caboose_B_2
  • NW2
falconservice posted:

To get the ILLINOIS CENTRAL GULF ACF Center Flow 3560 Cu. Ft. 3-bay covered hopper they will have to strip and repaint the Lionel Erie-Lackawanna and ADM BioProducts ACF Center 3-bay covered hoppers made by Lionel in the 1990's. Those schemes had several errors in graphics and were road numbers for larger cars. The ADM BioProducts scheme is not even a real ADM scheme.

 

So, everybody, which is the safest material to strip the paint off a Lionel plastic body ACF Center Flow 3560 CU FT 3-bay covered hopper. First the trucks have to be removed.

 

 

 

 

IMG_9002

Why strip it , just lightly sand of the graphics , as far as decals you could make black ones yourself with a laser printer . No white ink needed . KINKO's has a printer to print on decal paper , via manual feed . Done it many times .

To answer your question about a paint stripper- my favorite for plastics is "EZ Lift Off" (ELO) which is made by Floquil/Testors. You may have to look around for a store that has it as not everyone carries it. Here is the best news- you can strain used ELO through a paper coffee filter and you can re-use it! Just put it in a sealed mason jar after filtering for re-use.

Second favorite is Castrol 'Super Clean' degreaser. CAUTION! This is a very aggressive chemical and if you get it on your hands, it will strip off the natural skin oils and the outer layer of skin will be dry and rough (sometimes red and peeling like a burn). Definitely use rubber gloves when working with this product. It does do a great job removing enamel paints and tampo printing without damaging plastic. BE SURE to thoroughly wash what you have stripped with a soap like dish detergent and warm water before re-painting. There are clones of this product under various names such as 'Purple Power' but I have found them to be less effective than "Super Clean'.

Last edited by MG Brown

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