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I have a premier MTH Hudson cab number 5335. Don't have the product number, it came in a set with the dark red enamel metal passenger cars.  PS2 to PS-3 conversion, no place for charge plug on tender. Tried a feature and a factory reset.

When running this with other trains running, a derailment of this locomotives rolling stock caused a short and the 180 bricks tripped.  Now it starts does everything except move.  Is this something I can take care of, or back to a tech.

Thanks for your help

Clem 

Last edited by clem k
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bruce benzie posted:

I assume you do not have a TVS connected?  You must be able to have the power cut off rapidly in the event of a short.  You most likely damaged the ps2/3 board.  It must be tested.

bruce

wouldn't the TIU offer the TVS protection?

( I know it's probably a one time thing....)

I put fast blow fuses in my lines between the bricks and the TIU. The Lionel 180s I use, trip before I can (or the fuses) react.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

Clem I went to the new jersey highrailers this past weekend and talked to Ben there club president! he told me the best thing they ever added to there layout was the PSX-AC system  Ben told me they never have blown a board since installing the PSX-AC system trip instantly without any damage! he highly recommends it! and there not very expensive!

Alan

https://tonystrains.com/produc...psx1-circuit-breaker

check these out there much cheaper then boards!

Last edited by Alan Mancus

I would still try a conventional reset. But....What do I know? 

I've had brand new engines right out of the box needing resets.

I have a Tony's breaker thing sitting here that I never hooked up. I have three layouts and haven't blown a board yet (from a derail!). Maybe it's from running mainly 2 rails? or just luck? I run big consists with lots of engines.

I like the Lionel 180w bricks so much that I pulled my Z4000 off my outside main and installed 2 more bricks. I use the Z4000 strictly for 3 rail loop. I should look into connecting that breaker on that loop I guess.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

No TVS that I know of, do TVS wear out? Clem

no they don't really wear out but they due usually short when they catch the spike there designed to catch ! then you have to track down which tvs diode failed where ever you installed it. there inside  tiu's  and some guys install them at there power feeds around there layout. 

Alan Mancus posted:

No TVS that I know of, do TVS wear out? Clem

no they don't really wear out but they due usually short when they catch the spike there designed to catch ! then you have to track down which tvs diode failed where ever you installed it. there inside  tiu's  and some guys install them at there power feeds around there layout. 

Yes they do degrade as the absorb spikes, and while they may "usually" fail shorted, they can fail open.  How about we resolve his engine problem first, before we continue to criticize whether he had a TVS or some other track issue.  G

Joe .... I tried the feature reset and the Factory reset first, I'm using four lionel 180 bricks in four blocks, four tiu channels. The 180 in that block tripped. I also have relays that trip sometimes faster than the 180's.

GGG.......The TIU still works, I used it right after the derailment and for the last couple of days.

How is the conventional reset done ?


  I'll have to look that up somewhere. I use a Z4000 at my bench. I also use 100% of the power of the 180 bricks.  My last video started popping breakers if smoke is turned on. Last time I did this with a Z4000,  I had a constant 10 amp current draw.  Z4000 can do that longer than a brick.

Is putting the TVS at power drops good ? 

FYI  this was an operator error 

Gary...... I watched the video I need more than 8 amps and not sure I should go to 12 ?

clem k posted:

Thanks joe,    does it matter which handle i use ?   I tried it a few times .

Not that I know of? I had a scrambled engine not do the reset thing after several tries. I came up stairs and watched the video by Stan and went back down to try again. On about the third try of that session, all of a sudden I got the two horn blasts.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

Clem,  Since we are not completely sure what the upgrade was, what we do know is that the engine no longer sees the watch dog and starts in conventional. So that is a problem.  We also know it is not taking a conventional reset and all features not working, though you do have sounds.  So the best bet is to get the board tested and move on from there.  I am sure it can be repaired.  But it may need a board replacement.  G

Thanks GGG.......I'll call the service tech that did the install, this locomotive was just there last week for running 10mph faster than the other DCS locomotives. Easy fix this locomotive was weathered and overspray got on the flywheel stripes, just remove the overspray good as new. I'll keep you posted on the repair.

Clem

How much faster does a PSX open than a PH-180 breaker?

Norton, "BCR" is a trade name, a brand, for a device that uses supercapacitors.  In the 9-volt version, the BCR manufacturer uses zener diodes to assure all of the in-series supercaps charge equally, and they do have a patent.  In the 3-volt version, I don't believe there are zener diodes.  All of my PS2 locos have home-built 3-volt supercaps, but they are not made by the BCR manufacturer and therefore are not BCRs.  (RJR's?)

Back before WWII, many people called any brand refrigerator a "Frigidaire" after a then-dominant brand (made by General Motors).  Same with the use of "BCR."

 

OK back from the tech   All is well in my little world again.   The board checked out ok   Couldn't figure out  for the longest time,   It turned out to be the tether, where the wires come into the plug a part time connection   Replaced that and did a little re-engineering and runs like a champ now maybe better than it was . So after more thinking, jogging of memory on my part, thinking on his part. Kinda figured out what happened. remember I said there was a derailment causing a short, this train was rear ended by another 7 trains 1 loop. What we surmise is the collision happened because this Hudson stalled, because the tether failed. the tether failed because  a year ago I had him remove the Anaconda cable and replace with a straight plug, looks really good   I have large curves"120" so I shortened the draw bar and that put undo stress on the tether.    I anyhow all is good all i am going to do now is enlarge the opening in the tender some more we did some a year ago but will do more.

Thank you !!  everyone for the help the people on this forum are amazing 

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