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My good buddy Dennis has had the patience of Jobe, ……so how does one thank him for such patience?…..with precise workmanship, …..that’s how!…We’ll be outfitting Dennis’s 763 with a Pittman, steel slip joint driveshaft, cruise, 4 chuffs, and smoke ….this one is working out super smooth, with very nice snug fitting parts,…..we’ve machined down the stock worm shaft to accept these nice steel slip joint double universal shafts, and of course, fitted the nice big fat Pittman….stay tuned, …

Pat 02FEE5AF-A1CE-44D9-B454-A928C5755DC68F2A428C-0507-4C4C-A0FE-EAA64A94BF82

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@Dave_C posted:

Pat, that sure does run smooth.  Do you machine the up flywheels to go on the Pittman ?

That driveshaft looks slick with a slip joint no less. Is this a train part or is it from an RC car ?

Dave, I use an off the shelf flywheel, that’s actually made for a Mabuchi motor, bore it, and counter bore it for set screws,…..the driveshafts are indeed RC car parts,…they’re available in a dizzying array of lengths, and luckily already are set up for common 4mm shafts,…..the shafts are steel, not pot metal, are very well constructed, and pretty precise,…the universals are very smooth and are made of steel as well,….end result, it will out last all of us straight to the landfill,….😉

Pat

Thank you fellas, ….I must admit, the pilot truck inspiration comes from Ron H.’s recent thread on his Williams Masterpiece Hudson,….Ron used a 2 rail pilot truck with add on details to make a fine looking model,…..so for Dennis’s Hudson, I used the stock Lionel truck frame, and some 2 rail scale pilot wheels….but what I did was to chuck up the 2 rail wheels and turn down the tires to increase the flange height so they’d track well through 3 rail track, be it tube track, fastrack, or I rail ….that was worth the effort,……I removed .015 from the tire’s diameter and gained a lot more flange for 3 rail operations…..the pilot truck navigates Atlas no. 5’s with out issues, …and y’all know those are some of the worst offenders in the business….😉

Pat

Tender change? Is there a big lever next to the engineer or is that a trick or the light? I didn't see if there was a wire tether or not, hard as heck to see. Very curious though Pat, very curious indeed. Nice crew as well.

I know someone had mentioned on one of the earlier Hudson discussions about changing out the drivers on certain model Hudson when discs weren't supposed to be in that particular model, I think that was on one of the J3's though, right Pat, not the J1?

@Ron H posted:

I especially like the piston valve motion. It's a good thing!!!

Ron, I hope you don’t mind, I drew inspiration for the front pilot truck from your work,….I think this needs to be a SOP when doing these Hudson conversions……although I cheated a little to gain some flange height for whatever 3 rail track scenarios could be tossed at it,…your work is top shelf, and I only imitate your artistry ….😉

Pat

@Johnsgg1 posted:

Looks and sounds great.  Now the tender needs the shorter drawbar.  Just installed one on my Centipede tender.

That’s just a loaner tender from my buddy Chris’s Hudson…..Dennis has his PT tender home with him,….he’s a smart mechanic himself, I’m sure he can swap his draw bar out,…..anybody that can mess with ancient Mercedes Benz engines surely can swap a tender draw bar,…..they’d get my vote …..

my good and ooberly patient buddy Chris’s Super Hudson is on deck next,…

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

You’ll be witnessing this driveline very soon sir, ….that set up is now standard procedure for Pulmor conversions…..smooth isn’t the word,….speed step 1 is super smooth, with no stalls….

Pat

That clearly beats the pants off the old dogbone, that looks like something I might consider for some stuff that already has a can motor.

@harmonyards posted:

That’s just a loaner tender from my buddy Chris’s Hudson…..Dennis has his PT tender home with him,….he’s a smart mechanic himself, I’m sure he can swap his draw bar out,…..anybody that can mess with ancient Mercedes Benz engines surely can swap a tender draw bar,…..they’d get my vote …..

my good and ooberly patient buddy Chris’s Super Hudson is on deck next,…

Pat

FYI Dennis, et al., The drawbars from the scale 0-8-0 tenders are a perfect fit if you can still get them. Alternatively just cut and overlap the two pieces and solder together after removing the blueing. They are only .050” thick and have no effect on the optos lining up.
Another fine engine from the Master.👍



Pete

@Mikado 4501 posted:

Super slick work, Pat!

Can't wait to see mine getting a similar treatment. The difference performance before and after is like night and day!

Yep, …the thing is, these Pulmor equipped steam locomotives respond to a Pittman swap like nobody’s business,….the gearing is just right on the money,….so when the motor begins to spin, they’re already in the sweet spot for making power,…..good stuff!!

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

I’ve got about half dozen J1e’s from various mfr.’s to build,….all are under way, …it’ll get way better when they take my day job away from me……☺️

Pat

Tender change? Is there a big lever next to the engineer or is that a trick or the light? I didn't see if there was a wire tether or not, hard as heck to see. Very curious though Pat, very curious indeed. Nice crew as well.

I know someone had mentioned on one of the earlier Hudson discussions about changing out the drivers on certain model Hudson when discs weren't supposed to be in that particular model, I think that was on one of the J3's though, right Pat, not the J1?

Pat, do you know the answer to the disc driver question I asked here?

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