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The last thing I want to do is download software available on this foreign site after having to disable all security blocks on my computer as it says I have to do. Parasitic software/viruses abound. If anyone has down loaded JUST the actual print file from these and care to post them that would be appreciated for all the containers, be careful though. Am I wrong here??

Hi Frank.  I do feel that they are quite passable and may make more so I have enough to fill a 5-car articulated thrall set.

 

I would like to buy the Des Plains 53 footers, but they are the riveted type in 1990's paint schemes.  I would like to see 53 footers corrugated like the modern ones from Jindo and CIMC.  And of course they would have modern liveries like jb hunt, schneider, swift, pacer stacktrain, etc.

 

Also, at $25 apiece, that is quite a lot of money to fill up a stack train. Can't they sell a 3-pack for $50 or so?

 

As for the husky stack cars, I don't like single-car husky stacks.  At least they could make the 53 foot ones.  They do seem like a quality offering from what I've seen in the pictures, though

 

I printed those cardstock ones i just showed for less than $1 each.  Takes about 10-15 minutes to fold it up and glue it after printing.

Where the K-Line Containers S Scale?


I am not familiar with S scale 40' Containers. I believe some of the responses focused on 40' containers and not that this is a S scale forum. K-line did do O scale 40' as well as Right of way[ scale o] and Atlas O. 


For S Scale didn't American models or SHS do a spine car set with containers?

One of these days I've gotta get over to Des Plains hobbies!

Were I used to work, all we ever got in to the back dock were the 20' ribbed containers to hold our wire...nice sliding frame triple and tandem axle trailer frames...still want to build one in 1/25th scale. Anyway, those ribbed containers would be easy enough to scratch "if" one could find the scale ribbed sheeting...I have that in 1/25 thru plastruct but I'd have to find the catolog to see if they make it in 1/48th. 

Depending on just how many one would want, Alumilite makes a great expanding foam that skins when cured and is rigid{enough- dont' drop them though}. Once a mold was made someone could make a bunch of copies of a given container master. This type of foam was used over at Depot G eons ago for the triple log loads...fairly light but strong and easily paintable...just tossing ideas out here...

I've got an MTH husky stack 48', a railking husky stack 48' and a 3pak of MTH 40' containers to play with....sort of suprised the 2 railcars don't swap containers- different pin locations. One would have to set a standard for those pin locations too... 

Originally Posted by Burlington Route:

Depending on just how many one would want, Alumilite makes a great expanding foam that skins when cured and is rigid{enough- dont' drop them though}. Once a mold was made someone could make a bunch of copies of a given container master.

Or one could scratchbuild a container "kit" out of flat pieces of styrene and use them as masters for flat-faced molds, duplicating them en masse using Alumilite resin.

 

If I were to go to the effort to scratch-build something that detailed (meaning the corrugations), and knowing a little about silicone rubber moldmaking, I'd want to only build one model, and let some slabs of rubber plus a few cups of resin do the rest

 

---PCJ

PCJ...true so long as there's no warpage in the sides/ends...folks get a notion that if they pay any decent amount of money for a kit that it should be flat and easy to work with...{laughing...} while those of us who've ever built resin kits know that some warpage or fudging is usually {but not always} to be expected. I've done quite a few "flat" pour molds as well as plunge molds for a box sided object{top/sides/ends-open bottom}...flat sided are nice to see any air bubbles and work them out quickly...plunge molds are a crap shoot if your pour lets any air in - a vacuum bell or jar would help there but I've never used one{$$$}. I like the foam stuff, though I've actually never tried it, because it expands to a far larger volume than poured...one just has to experiment with how much for a given mold...though if the given is 75% expansion and your mold requires 1 cup{figure out of thin air here} to fill it solid, then all that should be needed is a 1/4 cup{at 75% expansion}...easy to say till tried.

A final aspect to this would be casting for fun or profit....profit being over the initicial investment and costs. ...playful guesses below-

- mold @ $25

- acceptable life= 20ish casts{details can cost mold life even with a release agent}

- resin costs per each unit @ $3

- cast unit cost of $5 each= 12-13 units sold to pay for the mold and the resin

...I haven't priced casting supplies since the mid '80s..this is all guessing, but more for an informative idea whether to build your own or pay a caster.

I wouldn't go to $10 a piece because I've seen them for that from MTH...bought my 3pak for $30 at a store...  

Yes, Frank, those are 1:64 styrene cars I made.  I used American Models high-rail trucks and obviously it is sitting on traditional AF track.
 
I'll post more photos when I finish the other four cars.
 
 
Thanks
 
Martin
 
Originally Posted by Swafford:

Hi Martin,

 

Containers are looking great. I'm curious, did you make the Thrall cars in S Scale? Can you post some more pictures please? Thanks.

 

Regards, 

Frank  

 

Originally Posted by Martin H:

Here's what my cardstock containers look like in a 1:64 thrall car

 

photo 4

My only problem with DPH container cars is they are very lightweight.  But then weight must be added to many pcs. of S rolling stock.
I also have AM's spine cars, like them very much, but would like to add "tread" where the trailer tires sit.  Any ideas?
Back in my 2 rail O scale days, I had the Atlas Gunderson well cars.  All metal!  Took two horses and a mule to pull 'em!
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