PS2 Diesel 5v and 3v board compatibilty?

Maybe it's an old QSI board?

What engine is it? I think MTH retained the wiring scheme on 5 volt when they brought in the 3 volt.

Oh, oh Where's G?

Hey Pete,

I am assuming you have a new upgrade kit with the PS3/2 stacker board.  The board from this upgrade kit is designed for 3V plugs.  Your 5V plugs will be a little off.  MTH does make a stacker board with the 5V connectors, but is not included in the kit.  You might be able to exchange it for one from MTH or a service center.  Also, the speaker must be changed as the OHMS from 5V-3V are different, use the one in the kit.  Lastly, there is no need for a battery, as the PS3/2 boards have the Super Caps built in like the standard P3 boards.

This is not a new PS3/2 board. Its the previous PS2 upgrade kit that uses the 3 Volt battery. The connector set on the new board is identical to the old 5v board. I just want to confirm its a virtual direct swap save the battery before I blow it up.

5v board on the left, 3v on the right.

Pete

Well, it's 1:1 for the connectors, the pinout of the various connectors is the same.  But...WAIT!

You have to remove the shells from the toasted 5V board and the 3V board and slide the black shells on the 3V board.  The connectors are pinned the same, but they are NOT compatible physically.

It's best to heat up the plastic a bit on them before trying to slide them off.  Also, be VERY careful on the 3V board not to damage the board getting the connector bodies off, obviously it doesn't really matter on the 5V board.

You will need to replace the 16 ohm speaker with a 4 ohm speaker as the 3V board uses the lower impedance. 

Finally, you will NOT use the 9V battery or harness.  I recommend a supercap replacement to solve that problem.

mrmacher posted:

Hey Pete,

I am assuming you have a new upgrade kit with the PS3/2 stacker board.  The board from this upgrade kit is designed for 3V plugs.  Your 5V plugs will be a little off.  MTH does make a stacker board with the 5V connectors, but is not included in the kit.  You might be able to exchange it for one from MTH or a service center.  Also, the speaker must be changed as the OHMS from 5V-3V are different, use the one in the kit.  Lastly, there is no need for a battery, as the PS3/2 boards have the Super Caps built in like the standard P3 boards.

 That board is a PS/2 3V board, it's not the PS32 board, so he needs a battery.  Also, MTH hasn't had the stacker boards with the 5V connectors for many months, the procedure I described above is how I use the PS32 when I have to replace a 5V board.

Thanks John. So how do you replace caps if the boards are soldered together?

I could probably take them apart using a heat gun with small nozzle or a solder tip made for DIPs but that seems fairly risky.

Pete

Caps?  There's most likely no hope for the 5V board, usually when they die, they stay dead!

I'm talking about the black connector shrouds on the 5V board, you have to put them on the 3V board to allow the 5V wiring harness to mate with your new board.  You also have to remove the white connector shrouds (except for the battery connector) and put the black ones on the new board.

The supercaps I mentioned and pictured were to simply replace the 2.4V battery and harness so you don't have to screw around with batteries.  Since the new battery pack will cost as much as the supercap replacement, why not do it once and be done?  That supercap assembly I pictured above plugs in here.

We have plenty of supercaps as well as batteries. I have done quite a few PS1 to PS2 upgrades. Just never had to replace a 5v board yet.

Pete

There's always a first time Pete.   You should have no issues dropping this in, hardest part is prying those stinkin' shrouds off the connectors.

Just loaded the new sound file. All is good again. Not too much problem swapping the housings. I used the chisel blade on my Xacto to pry them off. Definitely easier than swapping all the individual leads. Thanks again for the tips.

Pete

All's well that ends well.   Besides, swapping all the leads means you have to crimp new contacts to put the new shells on, that would have been ugly!