Diode Conversion For Lionel 1033

I wouldn't buy anything from JustTrains in New Jersey unless that was the very last place to go and then probably not then. 

I bought a Like new #97 coal loader roof a few years back. It was repainted on the topside. Had a scratch on the topside. The bottom side was rusty and had grease on it. Definitely not Like new. When I called him out on it he got nasty and made threats about where I sell Trains at the Allentown Train Show. I swore to never do business again.

I have talked to other vendors at the show that had unpleasant and dishonest deals from them also. 

Sincerely; Forest

Purchased the 16amp diode & new line cord from this company for my transformer repair and a new smoke unit for the engine.  The person behind the web storefront  was very helpful via email and I had no problems.    Did not have issue with Just Trains but thanks for sharing your experience.

Dan Padova posted:

Yardmaster posted:

Here is a picture of a diode installed on my 1033 transformer.

I removed the old whistle rectifier and parts, cut off the the old mounting bracket out of the transformer, and soldered in the diode.

Boy, do those whistles blow now and every time!

Quick and easy.

 

Correct me if I am wrong.  So what you have shown here is another way to do what LIONELTIN showed us in his original post ?  And what do I ask for when buying the diode in you photo ?   Great picture by the way.  

This is a very nice and clean way to upgrade the 1033's. Very helpfull. 

Looks like a 6A diode.  Probably plenty for common use of the 1033.

Hey guys,

As it would turn out, I stumbled upon a 1033 in a junk pile, and decided to fix it. Mostly needed a new power cord and replacement terminal posts, but I decided to open it up to clean it up and check on internal components.

I am indefinitely going to replace the circuit breaker with a modern one and replace the rectifier disk with the diode method, but I wanted to check on the tan wire that in mine looks very dry and brittle (and likely should be replaced in general).

I checked service manuals, and said this is a resistance wire, but I wanted to ensure this was absolutely necessary if I’m going with the updated fixes, and most places online don’t bother with this piece in replacement supplies.

It is indeed resistance wire, that's for the 2-stage whistle activation, as the second contact closes on the whistle switch, that resistance wire is connected across the diode to boost the AC voltage for the extra current draw of post-war whistle tenders.

I thought so, John!

Even with the new diode and circuit breaker being added, what replacement do you recommend based on experience?

Normally, I'd keep it as is, but that wire is particularly dry and brittle on my 1033, and needs replacement.

The stock resistance wire has an asbestos insulation on a nichrome or similar resistance wire leading to is peculiar "aged" look and feel. Unless the wire is broken or the insulation is damaged, I don't bother replacing the resistor wire, and if there is a need to, I have a stock of salvage parts with viable resistor wires to use.

On a quick search, if I needed a modern resistor replacement, I would look at something like these - they may be a bit overkill, but I think that they would do the job rather cleanly:

https://www.amazon.com/Electro...strial/dp/B07DCRLYBS

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought it was better to keep all the information in once place.

Recently I picked up a Lionel 1033 transformer for use under the Christmas tree. I cleaned it up, replaced the power cord and diode, and then tested it. The voltage across the various posts seems correct, but when I activate the whistle it makes a buzzing sound and sometimes there are sparks on either the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock contacts from the video below. Is this accurate/safe? I posted the same question on Facebook and one response said we shouldn't even be using a new diode.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epHkxIZbU-0

@Emmo213 posted:

Recently I picked up a Lionel 1033 transformer for use under the Christmas tree.

The case should be installed for proper lever indexing to test the operation, and the tender with the locomotive running with at least a light load is needed to draw enough current through the diode for the DC offset.

Thank you for the suggestion. I put a locomotive and tender on the track to try it with a load and the sparking did stop, although it still buzzes.

I also put the case back on to make sure the handle indexing was correct and it seemed to be. Interestingly even with the case on if I fully rotate the whistle handle the whistle will stop. I have to only partially rotate the handle to get the whistle to function properly.

@Emmo213 posted:

I have to only partially rotate the handle to get the whistle to function properly.

That's usually because there is not enough of a load on the whistle circuit.