Does Nickel-Silver track oxidize less than tinplate track?

Not in my experience, no.  they both seem to do about the same.

The G&O garden railroad in the SF Bay Area uses Atlas nickel silver track.  The track has been out in rain and shine for 4 years without oxidation problems.  It does need to be cleaned because it is outdoors.  I have Atlas track on my home layout that I have only occasionally cleaned.

Regular Lionel tubular track would not last a rain storm without rusting in my experience.  I have friends who have run their trains on Lionel tubular track for years indoors without problems.  I suppose it depends on how wet your environment is.

Joe

I'm not so sure that solid nickel silver rails actually "oxidize", at least my Atlas O track doesn't "oxidize" on the upstairs layout. I would think that "tin-plate" track would definitely rust/oxidize under humid conditions.

Nickel Silver does oxidize, but the oxidization is conductive.

I have Atlas O track 3 rail track and I haven't noticed any oxidation (nothing rust like anyway). I'll go with what the others have said about that. I've had some of it for about 3 years and it has worked very well for me.

I purchased some of my track used, some was (is) pretty dirty and needs cleaning. I have been using it for quite a while as-is with no problems. I have both DCS and Legacy and have not removed any of the black on the center rails. That is working just fine here so far. I will get around to cleaning it one of these days. I have decided to purchase only new track and switches from now on.

Atlas makes transition rail joiners for both tubular and Gargraves track. Magna-traction could be a problem, if you have any and want to have grades. I have all modern diesels with traction tires and have not had any problems. I also use Atlas switches and switch machines and the only problems I have had were with some used switches. Had to replace a couple of switch machines and some throw bars and throw bar springs and links. Atlas had the parts and was also a big help in getting me what I needed for repairs.

The iron content in most common metals including tinplate track is what attracts rust.  Nickle-silver, like that used in Atlas O, MTH's RealTrax & ScaleTrax is mostly copper (about 60%) with about an equal percentage of zinc and nickel comprising the rest of it.   Since there's an absence of iron (or at least not enough traces of iron) this makes the material highly resistant (virtually impervious) to rust corrosion; the only effect is that it can and does oxidize if the atmospheric conditions are right; but as already mentioned the oxidization is electrically conductive, so really the only issue to deal with is keeping the track clean from surface gunk like oils & grease just like with other track systems.  Lack of iron is also what makes nickel-silver non-magnetic.

Based on experience with nickle silver track in another gauge, what people may be saying is oxidation is more than likely simply the track gets dirty, all kinds of track needs to be cleaned (other than if you were running with batteries and had true radio control, where track cleanliness would have no effect electrically on the engine). Nickel silver does oxidize, but unlike steel, the oxidized metal is conductive as others have said.  In a damp environment nickel silver or stainless would be options. 

I knew it was non-ferrous, didn't know it had that much copper in it though. I know copper oxidizes also, but not sure what nickel-silver looks like oxidized? I have some pretty dirty track and it still gives me 10's all the way around on my DCS system, at least it did a month or so ago. Everything I have also runs very well on it. That's why I'm still slacking on the cleaning.   The looks of it may get to me before any problems arise, looking pretty ugly in a few places.

Bachmann considers nickle plated HO ez-track superior to their steel ez-track and prices it accordingly. They claim conductivity of nickel-plated rail is much better than conductivity over steel rails. While uncertain about oxidation, nickle-plated rails propensity towards rusting is virtually  nil compared to steel rails.

We chose the Atlas Nickel Silver track for it's no-rust properties. It doesn't rust, but it certainly gets dirty! The bridge on the modular layout is GarGraves Stainless Steel 5 rail. Hands-down, it stays cleaner than any other track on the layout.

Gilly

I have a two track suspended layout under a covered patio attached to my shop that I haven't run in probably two years. This would be a good opportunity to see how it has fared. I think I'll put a small train on one of the lines and see what happens. I'll post my results on the weekend.

Don

The other gauges seem to like it much better than regular steel. You can "feel" the smoothness running on it. Its considered an acceptable alternative for outside use. Better conductivity than stainless (less power drops needed), and aluminum and brass both have to be cleaned more.

Seems to be a "bang, for your buck" product if you ask me.  

My money is on Don quickly wiping/dusting the track tops, and running fine after only a couple loops. 

Conductivity and dirt are far more problematic in 2-rail.  I have loops of brass, nickel-silver, and steel.  All of them need serious cleaning if left unused for more than a week.  I like the steel loop, but have no feel as to which loop conducts better.

Again, I have both and oxidation, dirt . . . whatever you call it, they are about equal in how often and how serious the cleaning has to be . . . it may not be oxidation with the one, but it still requires cleaning just as often.

I've had Atlas nickle-silver 3 rail track for about 8-10 years.  I've never had a conductivity problem.  I used to clean it because I thought that I should.  After letting it go for a while I noticed it didn't make any difference.  I haven't cleaned it for at least three years.  It will accumulate a "grime" on it, but it doesn't seem to affect performance.  Not all metal oxidation is the same.  Iron rust is a bad player, but other metals' oxidation have different properties.  Rust is a four letter word, but oxidation isn't.

I have to abrais off a rubbery like build up on switches sometimes.  I think that this accumulates due the electrical "sparking" that occurs as the wheels and rollers go from one feed to another on the track.

Alan