I have no idea what you have at this point. I can only suspect that something got wired incorrectly and you're cooking stuff. Clearly, something is very wrong. Reminds me of an old saying I had hanging over my desk at work...
That comment was neither required or desired. Im a controls engineer for the nuclear world, this hobby is the one thing I don't want to keep trouble shooting problems that are not my own. I do 60-75hrs a week of that.
Reminds me of a saying too: Treat others as you would like to be treated.
Engineers with that attitude you have, don't last very long in my world.
oh, by the way, its a ccm board issue, but thanks for assuming its my fault....
Ok, that was a little harsh, sorry.
@Coalguy posted:oh, by the way, its a ccm board issue, but thanks for assuming its my fault....
You're saying you bought a new CCM and it was already bad? I guess I'm having a hard time believing that it came out out the package bad. I use a lot of these boards, it's certainly not something I see here.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Ok, that was a little harsh, sorry.
You're saying you bought a new CCM and it was already bad? I guess I'm having a hard time believing that it came out out the package bad. I use a lot of these boards, it's certainly not something I see here.
Thanks
The next thing is removing the ccm, remove the heatsink and all wiring except the 4 pin power plug and hooking it directly to the power supply. Maybe its grounding out somewhere? Resistance to the power input on the ccm is 1.3mohms, and 20kohms across the motor leads. Seems like it would work. ROY from royz trains said he had one keep shorting out, but it was somehow related to the wiring of the older odseay board. He wants me to send it back.
I admit the electronics portion of my EE is weak as I am a power engineer. Then at westinghouse found my calling as a controls engineer during reactor refuel and fuel repair.
I hope the FETs made it...... this was on the lionel heatsink, FYI to you guys....
Interesting comment. Scott told me that one of the issues he's had with RS Commanders is the foam tape is too thin and the connector pins project too far out and short to the chassis. That's apparently the chief source of returns for the RSC.
When I get any of these boards, I trim all the projecting leads before installation, it's just part of the routine. I haven't seen them be long enough to short on the CC-M, but I suspect I haven't seen every heatsink configuration either.
FWIW, when my boards come from China, I have to trim leads as well.
@Coalguy posted:Seems that err needs to trim the tails on the FETs, they looked shorted out. Trimmed them down, but dont have time to test right now.
Thanks for the heads up. I still have some in stock and have not had to order from Scott yet. I wonder if they are coming from the same supplier since Scott took over?
Pete
@Norton posted:Thanks for the heads up. I still have some in stock and have not had to order from Scott yet. I wonder if they are coming from the same supplier since Scott took over?
Pete
I don't know, but I will say, stay away from that Rayz trains, ordering from him was my first mistake.
Just got some in a couple days ago. They need trimming.
Attachments
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Just got some in a couple days ago. They need trimming.
Do you get your stuff direct from ERR? That Ray guy is a real peice of work. Im done with him and his aggression toward customers. I guess the customer is always wrong in his eyes, then berates me when I told him about the leads being too long. Like I'm the one responsible for completing the work....
Yes, I buy direct as I'm an ERR dealer.
FWIW, the older CC-M units from ERR before Lionel closed it down also had the same unclipped leads, I still have a couple of those around, they look just like my previous picture.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Yes, I buy direct as I'm an ERR dealer.
FWIW, the older CC-M units from ERR before Lionel closed it down also had the same unclipped leads, I still have a couple of those around, they look just like my previous picture.
Am I allowed to buy from you? And the super chuffer?
Sure, drop me a line on my profile email address.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Sure, drop me a line on my profile email address.
Thanks, I will. One more question. I have brown and grey for the DC motor leads, any idea whats pos and neg so I dont have to redo the leads if I get it wrong?
The colors aren't always consistent. Brown and gray are not the norm. I just make sure to take notice of where I got the wire so I can match it to the new board. Even then I don't always get it right and have to swap them.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The colors aren't always consistent. Brown and gray are not the norm. I just make sure to take notice of where I got the wire so I can match it to the new board. Even then I don't always get it right and have to swap them.
Got the CCM installed, still have radio issues, antennas are infinite to chasis, but I noticed the radio board doesn't really fully seat on the header socket. The shell has to be hitting it and it works its way loose. Probably why the last radio board had a blown capacitor and scortch mark on the inside of the shell. Do I need a mother board that has deeper pins? I'm at a loss, I can't believe lionel would let this fly....
Thanks
Its actually less common for the R2LC to seat fully against the mother board. In most cases there as actually more pin showing. In fact thats the area where I usually solder the wire to pin 24 to run to the Cruise M. Just trim off the excess pins sticking through the board and cover with electrical tape or duct tape.
Pete
@Norton posted:Its actually less common for the R2LC to seat fully against the mother board. In most cases there as actually more pin showing. In fact thats the area where I usually solder the wire to pin 24 to run to the Cruise M. Just trim off the excess pins sticking through the board and cover with electrical tape or duct tape.
Pete
Its barely engaged with the pins, maybe I need to figure out why the board is angled up?
The tallest cap usually hits the board and keeps it from being horizontal.
Attachments
I just went and checked my supply of Cruise Ms, about 8. None sourced from 3rd Rail. None have the protruding pins shown in the pictures above. They appear to have been trimmed by machine barely above the solder. I have to suspect these are now being sourced from a different supplier.
Pete
Could be Pete, I can't really say. I have some of the Lionel back-EMF boards, those are trimmed pretty close. I just check over any board I'm installing and trim if necessary. Many times, I trim the back of the R2(4)LC closely as well, I put them in places where there isn't much clearance at times. I use a thin sheet of Styrene to insulate the back.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The tallest cap usually hits the board and keeps it from being horizontal.
There was a capacitor under the mother board that was propping it up, one lead broke at the solder as soon as I moved it. Put heat shrink on the leads and moved it over so the board will sit flat. Running it now, also noticed it doent like running next to the baseboard heat, hydronic, really good ground plane. Any time I command it near it, the sound gets garbled and chuffs go out of sync.
@Coalguy posted:Any time I command it near it, the sound gets garbled and chuffs go out of sync.
Could be electrical interference. I was having all sorts of issues with a DCS locomotive on my workbench one day, and I discovered my LED strip lights powered with a switching power supply was injecting massive electrical noise into the track signal! Turned off the lights and everything fell into place and worked fine.
Thanks guys, yea she is sensitive loco. Once I get my real layout done, lots of these issues will probably go away.
Got to be the antenna, if I already didn't take this thing appart 6 times, I'd try only one hand rail to see if it improves, but oh well.
If the antenna isn't grounded to the frame, it should be good. Don't try to remove one side, that won't help the running.