DZ-2500 non-derail issues.

Talk to Dennis at Z-Stuff, they're likely broken.

One thing to check for - make sure that the thru and out isolated rail sections are not shorted together - thus when a car sits on one isolated rail, is actually would short both, and the DZ2500 might (i.e. I don't know for sure - never tried to see what would happen) keep switching back and forth as long as a. I do know that if the two isolated rails of a Lionel switch are shorted to together, and you put a car on one isolated rail, the Lionel switch will keep switching back and forth.

@MED posted:

One thing to check for - make sure that the thru and out isolated rail sections are not shorted together - thus when a car sits on one isolated rail, is actually would short both, and the DZ2500 might (i.e. I don't know for sure - never tried to see what would happen) keep switching back and forth as long as a. I do know that if the two isolated rails of a Lionel switch are shorted to together, and you put a car on one isolated rail, the Lionel switch will keep switching back and forth.

Good idea, and that's a problem with some Ross switches, I had it on one of mine.  It does drive the DZ-2500 nuts when that happens.  With both isolated trigger rails shorted, the DZ-2500 will indeed switch back and forth continually.  I just tried it to make sure I remembered correctly.

Thanks guys I was afraid they might just be dead. I’ll double check on any continuity between the control rails. I only had my 902FC clamp meter with me I think it stops at 40K Ohm I’ll get a different meter down there to triple check. Of course this was a couple of days ago so I can’t remember all my measurements but I think with the wires unhooked I could see the 5VDC at the breakout board. Like the other turnouts.

I have had several Ross switches have the issue of a short between rails.  Inside the circle is where the problem lies.  The spike holding one rail is touching the other rail or one of it's spikes.  Check there.

Any ohmmeter should tell you if there's a short, you're not looking for high resistance, but rather very low resistance.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Any ohmmeter should tell you if there's a short, you're not looking for high resistance, but rather very low resistance.

I had the same thought but considering I couldn’t find a low ohm short that’s what has me puzzled.

@CAPPilot posted:

I have had several Ross switches have the issue of a short between rails.  Inside the circle is where the problem lies.  The spike holding one rail is touching the other rail or one of it's spikes.  Check there.

Thanks for the tip Ron I’ll be sure to give that a check next time I’m down there

Forgot to update everyone I think Ron was right I had resistance between the rails and I think it's those spikes being so close together. I still don't know why my 902FC didn't pick up that but when I got back down to the layout I had my Fluke 116 with me and confirmed it. I didn't always have issues either so almost like you had to hold your finger just right while holding your breath to find out if the switch worked properly or if it freaked out.

Thanks guys