Electrocouplers Not Releasing

Try some powdered graphite to loosen things up.

Some couplers are more stubborn than others. You need a full 18 volts on the track for them to work reliably. The shutdown sounds are not connected to the coupler problem.

 What are you using for track power. If you have or are using a postwar transformer you can test this by holding the whistle button down while uncoupling.

I'm using a postwar KW.  So I've got the orange whistle switcher (not sure what to call it LOL - not a button.)  I know I had the KW all the way up.  I could try moving from the  B post to the A post as well I guess.  That KW is the only component of my grandfather's Christmas tree setup from 65 years ago that I still regularly use.  I occasionally get the New York Central A-B-A set he used out but the newer TMCC stuff is more fun for my kids.   

Posts A-U should supply enough power for the couplers.

I've taken a number of balky couplers apart and smoothed all the mating surfaces to greatly enhance their performance.  The stock couplers are diecast parts and they frequently have some molding flash on them that causes problems.  I believe it was Boxcar Bill that first pointed this out, and boy was he right!

It looks like there is a rivet holding things together.  You haven't by chance posted details with pictures of this operation somewhere have you?   

No, but I believe Boxcar Bill did, I followed his lead.  You do have to remove the rivet, and make sure you don't lose the spring and plunger when the knuckle pops out.

Here's the thread:  Electrocoupler Mods

Thank You!  I've read his post and bookmarked for future reference.  But the issue there seems to be staying closed and mine aren't having any problem staying closed.  So I'm reluctant to take them apart given how many people seem to report losing the springs with no source of spares.  

I've seen a couple of references (including in this post) to powdered graphite.  Can that be just shot into the nuckle gaps or do I need to take something apart to get the graphite worked in properly?  Is there any way to just get the coupler to open if it isn't opening by command without the disassembly/rivet removal option?

You can shoot the graphite in without taking anything apart.  FWIW, this fix corrects both opening and closing of the couplers.  Smoothing all the operating surfaces just makes them work better.  After the fix, you can couple cars without running cars together like a demolition derby, and they also uncouple much more reliably. 

Sometimes you can get a tweek in the housing, or due to other issues besides the knuckle assembly, the plunger doesn't function well.  I see this more with MTH than Lionel.

When a coupler doesn't want to open properly, and the knuckle moves freely, replace it.  you can always go back later if you want to disassemble and see it you can fix it.  

But there can be many other manufacturing defects that cause issues you can't fix with a file.  G

Hi mopac01 - You stated the following in your question….

     “I could only get them to fire sporadically and only without any cars attached. If pulling a half dozen heavy MTH cars firing the coupler wouldn't release the consist. I'm getting the release sound from RS and I can hear the magnet get energized but little love.”

     Since the magnets are firing and you have the sound, I would think that cleaning the knuckle coupler and lubricating the knuckle coupler. Could solve this issue.

Goo Gone for cleaning and Graphite Lubricant and if the Graphite does not work a light weight oil. I use Al Cass Valve, Slide & Key Oil. Odorless and will not separate.

     This is what works on my layout, see photo below, Click on photo to enlarge.

Good Luck • Gary - Cheers from The Detroit and Mackinac Railway.

It sounds odd but I've noticed that a locomotive coupler on a heavy train may not uncouple because the train seems to put a lot of stress on the coupler itself.  If the train is halted and the loco reversed just enough to slacken the coupler it will work  fine.  RICH