Okay Henry, That is a pretty good rate of speed, I'd think the engine should fly right over it without issue. In order for the engine to goto from 50 to 0 in that small gap seems unlikely but I think if you could post a picture of the switch junction that is giving you issue that would us all a lot.
I'd be looking at the engine, not at the switch. Did you do the simple checks, are both rollers connected?
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:I'd be looking at the engine, not at the switch. Did you do the simple checks, are both rollers connected?
Yes both roller work ok I can lift one end off track at a time and it will keep running
It actually does appear that something is amiss in the engine, it drops power immediately when it loses the power momentarily. Even if it has that gap, it should not have lost sound. Since the lights come back on very quickly, it has power back and should have continued on it's way like the other engines. The battery should have kept the PS/2 electronics running and allowed the engine to continue on.
First step is to check the battery and charging circuit for that locomotive.
If you put it on a straight track section and interrupt power momentarily, (less than a second), the sounds should continue and it should act like nothing happened. Again, if you have it on a straight section of track running slowly forward and interrupt the power briefly, it should momentarily stop and then just pick up and continue running. If either of these tests fail, you have a battery/charging circuit problem.
I took off the ground for less that one second and you can see what happened.
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There's your answer, it's broke.
Put a new charged battery in and see if that helps. If not, you have a bum PS/2 board set.
@Engineer-Joe posted:for a test, put a regular 9 volt inside just to see if it makes it over the switches. Some batteries fail when under load. Take it back out right away.
On some steam, you can add a pick-up to the tender if there isn't one. On diesels, you can add the double rollers when they fit, if they aren't already there.
I've also seen where some wires aren't connected properly or failed, and the engine stalls like you're seeing.
Don't get me wrong, the battery and/or the charging circuit is definately an issue. But if you can, I'd also fix the dead spot. If it's just the battery, then the board is fine.
Can't hurt to fix the dead spot, but with that behavior, it can stop just because of dirty track. Clearly, there is an issue with that specific engine. 
I agree with you you it must have been the engine/BATTERY. when i replaced the battery the first time I must not have let it charge now look with a BCR installed. The old battery was a green one and it showed 8.8v at the battery as well as the backside of the board where the wires hookup. The battery must do more than just the sound. now when power off the track the sound goes for about 5 seconds.
Again Thanks to all for your input
Henry
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Well at least you have the engine running now. However, there is still a problem. You can see the lights go out momentarily when the engine goes over the switch.
I'd look at both center rail pickups on the engine. Maybe one is non longer connected (wire broke?).
Just an idea.
@DaveGG posted:Well at least you have the engine running now. However, there is still a problem. You can see the lights go out momentarily when the engine goes over the switch.
I'd look at both center rail pickups on the engine. Maybe one is non longer connected (wire broke?).
Just an idea.
@c6usa posted:Yes both roller work ok I can lift one end off track at a time and it will keep running
Joe and Dave Thanks, Projects for tomorrow
@DaveGG posted:Well at least you have the engine running now. However, there is still a problem. You can see the lights go out momentarily when the engine goes over the switch.
I'd look at both center rail pickups on the engine. Maybe one is non longer connected (wire broke?).
Already tested that, at least he said he did. The issue with the switches is that they are spaced to drop power briefly to the engine, the voids match up with the rollers. However, with a good battery (or BCR), the engine flywheels carry him to power again, the battery keeps the electronics humming, and the engine continues on. If a roller were not connected, the lights would have been out a lot longer and twice for the two switch gaps. Even with a good battery, I doubt a PS/2 engine would make it around all those switches with one roller.
Ok. So does the other engine he used as a test doo the same thing, that is lights flicker while going over switch?
No, but if it's a PS/3 it wouldn't, and even some of the later PS/2 3V ones tended to have a little more headlight "life". The bottom line is he already stated he checked the rollers and they were good.
The rollers was the first thing that I tested. I lifted each end off of track one at a time to see if they were making contact and they were then when I had it on the bench I also check with a ohm meter both the roller to roller and wheel set to wheel set both were good.
In my life a little flicker no big deal I can live with that the engines don't miss a beat and all is good now with the CSX yard. I just like to run the trains nothing is perfect.
Thanks Again to you All
Henry
Testing a battery with a voltmeter will not show the condition of the battery, except in the rare case where there is an internal disconnect. A battery must be tested under load, and today's test meters are not enough of a load.
I don't see this being a battery issue, I think the engine is running fine. The problem with the switch spacing has already been discussed and does indeed briefly cut track power. However, the engine continues with the flywheel inertia and regains power before shutdown, thus indicating the battery is fine. On PS/2 locomotives, the lights will go out immediately on any track power interruption, they're not supported by the battery. The only "fix" here is to fool around with the switch spacing, and since it's not affecting anything but a brief flicker of the lights, he's elected to let sleeping dogs lie.
