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Why figure it out? Measure the amperage and voltage out with a clamp meter on the track wire at the output of the transformer. In expensive meters can be had that are useful for model train work.

A "kill-o-Watt'" type of device before the transformer would answer that question.

Taking the measurements at various points of the track is more of a troubleshooting effort. I would only undertake that if there was a "problem" area.

Last edited by Moonman
Lagerstout posted:

I did measurements of my setup with my kill-o-watt last night.  This is what I saw:

Z1000  no load - 6.3 Watts

W/ TIU no tracks - 8.6 Watts

W/ TIU 20' track + 2x lockons - 11.4 Watts

W/ RailKing PS3 UP ES44AC - 13.2 Watts

W/ RailKing PS3 UP ES44AC Smoke on - 19.8 Watts

W/ RailKing PS3 UP ES44AC Smoke on 20 SMPH 7 cars - 25 Watts

 

Looks reasonable to me. What are you trying to figure out?

oldtimer posted:

When figuring out wattage being used should you use the volts that are being put out at the transformer or the actual "track" voltage at the farthest distance?  Big difference.

Did you happen to measure the power with ES44AC Smoke On (19.8 Watts) at "the farthest distance" vs. at the lock-on closest to the transformer?  Big differences in Watts reading for an engine doing the same thing (apples-to-apples) can help diagnose drops or power losses in your wiring, lock-on/track connections, etc..

OTOH maybe you're trying to gauge whether you're pushing the limit of your 100 Watt brick.  There's a related discussion on losses in the Z-1000 brick (above the 6.3 Watt no load reading).  As PLCProf says it depends on what you're after.

 

 

stan2004 posted:
oldtimer posted:

When figuring out wattage being used should you use the volts that are being put out at the transformer or the actual "track" voltage at the farthest distance?  Big difference.

Did you happen to measure the power with ES44AC Smoke On (19.8 Watts) at "the farthest distance" vs. at the lock-on closest to the transformer?  Big differences in Watts reading for an engine doing the same thing (apples-to-apples) can help diagnose drops or power losses in your wiring, lock-on/track connections, etc..

OTOH maybe you're trying to gauge whether you're pushing the limit of your 100 Watt brick.  There's a related discussion on losses in the Z-1000 brick (above the 6.3 Watt no load reading).  As PLCProf says it depends on what you're after.

 

 

Lagerstout's data is not that of the OP - oldtimer(Bob) - it has no reference to oldtimer's equipment.

Oldtimer has PW pulmor's  and transformers, well, except an MRC 270. Running MU engines and incandescent lighted cars was causing power supply issues.

He converted to LED lights in the equipment, screw or push in replacements and doesn't kick breakers anymore.

See previous activity from his profile.

Aha. A case of mistaken identity - my mistake.

But in any event, if Oldtimer was in fact seeing a big difference in the voltage at the farthest distance I suggest the Watt measurement tool can help troubleshooting.  Converting to LEDs solved the breaker issue, but perhaps is/was a band-aid masking another underlying issue.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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