I think I saw a post about a replacement "dull coat" type of spray paint. Now I can't find the reference. Does anyone have a suggestion? I think it was a Rustoleum product which was much less expensive.
Thanks for any ideas.
Jay
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trainman129 posted:I think I saw a post about a replacement "dull coat" type of spray paint. Now I can't find the reference. Does anyone have a suggestion? I think it was a Rustoleum product which was much less expensive.
Thanks for any ideas.
Jay
I use the Rustoleum Matte Clear
Dullcote-- there is no substitute!
I stopped using "Dull Coat" a few years ago and have been using the following.
Rust-Oleum Brand 2X Ultra Clear matte spray
Also, Duncan SS339 supper Matte and Mayco AC-514 matte ceramic sealers found in craft stores and studio's to seal hand painted ceramics.
All the above are supplied in 12oz. spray cans at comparable cost of 3oz "Dull Cote".
Laidoffsick posted:Dullcote-- there is no substitute!
That's my experience as well. I used to use Krylon or Rustoleum (paints and clear coats) but many times they went on too thick and ran, obscured details, or had that orange-peel finish. Testor's or other model rattle cans tend to be better. You get what you pay for!
Thanks for the replies. I'll pick up a can of both next time I'm out shopping.
If you've seen any of Sirt's posts you know his results are fantastic with the Krylon. As for heavy applications everything takes a little practice to get it right.
Thanks Joe. You can also use Krylon clear flat first then mist lightly with Dullcote. Dullcote eats some powders so do this to save them. Dullcote is 3.99 - 4.99 a small can so doing this gets some extra mileage out of it. Also if applied colors are faded, you are spraying it to close.
As L.O.F. stated "Dullcote- there is no substitute" Nothing out there will be as FLAT as Dullcote. No matter what you try using, there is always a slight sheen especially using Matte. Never use Matte. Lowes has a clear flat but not as flat as DC and it has a strong smell to it. Use with an exhaust fan.
So seal the item with Krylon first, then use D Cote to dull it down a tad more if desired. 
Still only use Testors dull coat. Always applied very lightly it lasts forever.
Agree to using Dullcote, I dont use any other. BTW I'm not using so much that its a cost enters into the equation
I do a lot of painting with an air brush. But there are times when I want to do a quickie. I have tried using Rust-Oleums 2X new rattle cans. But I have yet to master getting the paint on without putting heavy coats or having it run.
Recently painted a Pennsy long haul tender. First attempt was with Rust-Oleum gloss, but was unhappy with the results. Stripped it and went back to my air brush.
It appears to me that the paints are too think and go on too fast for models. Great for 1:1 projects, but I just can't see it used for our models.
Since many of you love it and have no issues, perhaps I am doing something wrong. Does it need to be sprayed farther away from the models and done with a very quick sweep? Perhaps someone can better explain how to use Rust-Oleum or Krylon paint cans for models, or better yet, perhaps a video?
RAY
Ray:
I use both Krylon and Rust-Oleum 2X in my work. What I have learned through making mistakes is (especially with the 2X):
1. Start the spray off the product, sweep across (about 6-10 inches remembering the further away you are the drier the paint gets and the rougher the final spray surface), and finish off the product.
Incidentally spraying the final coats further away works great for making 'concrete'
2. Sweep at a steady pace. While there is such a thing as too slow (see item 3) there is really no thing as too fast other then low coverage and wasted paint. You need to find the speed that is comfortable for you. You have leeway with Krylon but the 2X lives up to its name.
You will need to make multiple coats for 100% coverage. Don't try to get full coverage at one spray. Let the paint dry for about 15 minutes then go back.
3. Don't linger anywhere on the product and don't get the urge to fill in that one weak spot. You will get it on the next coat.
4. There will always be certain pockets or hard to get to areas that need touch up. Don't be tempted to spray (this is how you get uneven coats or even runs on surrounding sections). Instead spray paint onto a piece of cardboard and use a small brush.
5. Krylon cans have a rotating nozzle. Use it in the vertical position to sweep across a product. Use it in the horizontal position to go up and down.
I use the horizontal nozzle position when I am spraying a flat wide piece like a platform or base. Mostly I use the vertical position for everything else. If I am spraying something like a distillation tower I will sweep across starting low and moving up.
With respect to clear coats - I make my own decals. I use Krylon Crystal Clear Satin to seal the decals. Once placed on the product I use Dullcote for protection plus to take the shine off the decal and the rest of the structure.
I have read in a few articles never to use Krylon or Rust-oleum flat coats for some reason or another but it sounds like others above have used it with no detrimental effects?????????
Joe
Ray if you do a lot of airbrushing then buy the bottles of Dullcote. Thats all I use. Thin 50/50 with laquer thinner, spray at 15-20 psi (lower the better) from about 6 inches.
"Dullcote-- there is no substitute!"
I agree; I have had a couple of compatibility issues - like ruining a paint job to save 50 cents - with the hardware brands of dull/clear. Often they are not as flat, either. So far, no compatibility issues with Dullcote.
I use hardware store blacks and grays and others, and I have indeed had good results with some if the "dull coat" Big Cans, but it's too risky for me. Been bitten twice; that's enough. If the money is a problem...my, that's a lot of models.
I use the little spray cans of Dullcote. They have worked fine, and no cleanup.
D500 posted:"Dullcote-- there is no substitute!"
I agree; I have had a couple of compatibility issues - like ruining a paint job to save 50 cents - with the hardware brands of dull/clear. Often they are not as flat, either. So far, no compatibility issues with Dullcote.
There are decals and dry transfers that do have compatibility issues with Dullcote. That's the reason I switched to the Rustoleum Matte. I still use Dullcote, but only when I can sure of the stability of decals and dry transfers that I am going over.
SIRT posted:Thanks Joe. You can also use Krylon clear flat first then mist lightly with Dullcote. Dullcote eats some powders so do this to save them. Dullcote is 3.99 - 4.99 a small can so doing this gets some extra mileage out of it. Also if applied colors are faded, you are spraying it to close.
As L.O.F. stated "Dullcote- there is no substitute" Nothing out there will be as FLAT as Dullcote. No matter what you try using, there is always a slight sheen especially using Matte. Never use Matte. Lowes has a clear flat but not as flat as DC and it has a strong smell to it. Use with an exhaust fan.
So seal the item with Krylon first, then use D Cote to dull it down a tad more if desired.
I do the exact same thing SIRT mentions.....I use Krylon to seal the piece, then Dullcote to my desired dullness.....I don't burn through so much D cote this way and the little cans last longer!
