GFCI Outlets

Possibly, it will trip from the capacitively connected ground. They trip on about 5ma. You might try an arc protector type which provides similar protection with arc detection. They need about 25 ma to trip. However, if the arc type senses rf to trip, it may not work either.

Around here a GFCI on ALL basement circuits is code and required. We have them everywhere (new home). In the 4 years we've been here we've have had no problems with they layout tripping anything. Also, FWIW, none of the GFCIs has tripped since we have been here.

I think we may have the arc type (cjack mentioned above) in all the bedrooms. They are in the breaker panel. It's something new I had never heard of? Anyway the builder just said if one ever trips to leave it off and call an electrician. 

That’s good to hear. It just seemed like messing with the ground wire might cause an issue.

The arc detector is apparently to catch those smoldering things like maybe a heating pad I thought...

Install the new circuit per the applicable code in your area; it probably does require a GFCI if in the basement as it is a potentially damp location. Depending on your panel type, the new breaker may be a combined GF/arc protector. (I needed an Eaton Cutler-Hammer Type BR GFCI recently and could only find the Combination type.) Your trains will probably be fine, but if not come back here for more help. 

Is your layout in a finished or unfinished area of the basement?  "Finished" according to the National Electrical Code (NEC) means usable as living space, e.g. a family room.  In finished spaces, even in a basement, the NEC doesn't require GFCI protection except within 6 feet of water sources.  (Local codes may override this.)  If you're in this happy place, the capacitively-connected ground Chuck mentioned won't be an issue.  I can tell you from lots of firsthand experience that the capacitive coupling of my track to ground via my Legacy base does not cause nuisance tripping of my finished train room's AFCI due to track shorts.

In all unfinished basement spaces, GFCI protection is required.  A related consideration is that the NEC now requires nearly all circuits in "dwelling units" to have AFCI protection.  Depending on how closely the individual doing the work follows the NEC, you may end up with a panel-mounted AFCI plus box-mounted GFCIs on your new circuit.  In that case, you may have to "play it by ear" and see if there's an issue.

That being said, just now I went into my train room, unplugged my master power cord from the switched wall outlet and plugged it into an extension cord that was plugged into a GFCI outlet in the unfinished part of the basement.  I turned the track voltage up to 18 and laid a screwdriver across the rails.  The local circuit breaker tripped after a few seconds but the GFCI did not.  I repeated this test and got the same result.  YMMV.

Chuck, the AFCI is designed to prevent house fires from situations like someone hammering a nail or drilling into a wall and hitting a live cable.  The high-amperage arc that can occur under such situations can quickly start a hidden fire in the walls.

Retinpa, It is in a unfinished basement, i.e. the walls and ceiling are just the rafters and concrete block, but is moderately used and very functional.  The floor does get wet about once a year with a very heavy storm like we had the other day.  4" of rain in a few hours.  It is an older home, but since we moved here the panel has been updated.  I figured that code would require it.  I'm doing 90% of the work, but having someone else check my work and running the wires into the panel. 

Thank you for all of your responses and help.  Seems to me like nuisance trips shouldn't be a problem. 

Great thread: FWIW (from an experienced sparky)

Arc fault circuit breakers are used to protect the wiring connected to it (not for personnel protection). A good example would be arcing at a receptacle, damaged extension cords, things that can be the cause of a fire (portable heaters connected via extension cord or poor receptacle connections are a big cause of problems). Arc fault circuit breakers are now designed to pickup a series or parallel arc. When arc fault breakers first came out they were either series or parallel (but not both). This was a problem and now they are all series/parallel. If you have an older home that was built around the time these arc faults where first required by the NEC you can contact the manufacture of your panelbox to find out if they are both series and parallel rated. They are great if you buy an older home with very old wiring that's never been serviced. Great devices. Many people will not put an arc fault on older wiring thinking that they will have nuisance tripping. Not true, if they trip there is something wrong.

GFCI circuit breakers and receptacles are designed for personnel protection (excess of 5 ma).  You can purchase a GFCI circuit tester that has a rotary switch with settings from 1ma to 10ma. Very handy device, and you should test them to make sure they are working correctly. All GFCI circuit breakers and arc faults have a TEST button. All GFCI receptacles have a TEST and RESET button. Use them, that is what they are there for. Especially if they are outside.

I own a few GFCI extension cords or GFCI short adapters that are very handy to use on non gfci receptacle circuits. Sometimes you may have to run an extension cord from inside the house to outside and can use a GFCI extension cord or adapter (better than not being protected at all).

To reset a circuit breaker after testing it (pushing the TEST button)  you then have to push the breaker all the way to the OFF position and then to the ON position. Pushing it all the way off resets the breaker.

< The high-amperage arc that can occur under such situations can quickly start a hidden fire in the walls. >

True and more. Even if it's a low amperage fault (below the rating of the breaker), but arcing at a high frequency  the breaker will/should trip.

Relatively new to the code is the use of tamper proof/resistant receptacles.  There are small doors on the two vertical plug opening,  that require the insertion of both prongs of a plug at the same time.  Not user friendly, IMO, but inhibits insertion of things like paper clips/ nails, etc.  by children.  Tamper proof receptacles should be available at an electrical supply store and the big box stores.

We did an addition about 18 months ago. All the new outlets had to be tamper proof, as described by Mike CT.
I took things a step further and had the contractor use higher grade outlets, which I purchased at my favorite local electrical supply house. I don't think Lowes had them in stock at the time.  I think they were called "specification grade".
Funny thing, the stock people pulled standard grade outlets to fill the order. Good thing I checked at the counter.
I wanted the better outlets for a couple of reasons:

1 - previous experience with outlets loosing their ability to tightly connect to the plug.

2 - previous experience with cheap outlets letting go of the wire(s) in the back (push connections). This has happened multiple times in multiple houses.,

The new branch circuits were done with a combination of Arc fault circuit breakers and GFCI outlets. If I recall correctly, its one or the other on a circuit. (Not positive)

My contractor used a GFCI outlet with a built-in nightlight in the bathroom. Very nice feature.

CW, those push in types, while (last I saw) still permitted on 15-amp circuits, are lousy and shouldn't be used, as you have observed.  When I wired up my ne house in 1991, they were still permitted on 20-amp circuits, and I used them.  Eventually, I replaced them all with the so-called backwire receptacles, in which the wire is not bent and goes under a clamp held by a screw.  I note that 30-amp locking receptacles, used in marinas, are similar to these backwire 15- and 20-amp receptacles.