Zett's EJ&E light mikado project (Updated 12/08/14)

Normally its not that hard to remove the domes and replace them with brass that match the ones on 755 but Lionel has been putting switches under the sand domes lately so that might not be so easy if that was done.

 

Pete

For now I was going to leave the domes the way they are.

I think the engine you want is equivalent Mikado.  Compare the steam dome on the model (large-wide-oval shaped-two covers) with the real engine (smaller-round-one cover).  

At this site  http://www.steamlocomotive.com/mikado/?page=eje  there is a discussion on EJ&E mikados.  The first were built in 1913 and the last in 1930 to virtually the same 1913 plan.  It strikes me that a USRA light mikado would make a better starting point for general size.

 

ray

What I said was the EJ&E didn't have any USRA Heavy Mikado's (which is what the Lionel model will be)  The five USRA Heavies that were allocated to them were never purchased and instead bought by the Western Pacific.

 

The J had Mikado's that weighed as much if not more (after modification) than the USRA Heavy Mike.

 

The J's steam roster info can be found here.

 

Rusty

Rusty I understand what you were saying. I believe that overall the new heavy that's coming out is a much closer match to this engine than the light.

To put new numbers and letters on, am I coming to have to repaint the entire engine?

Your photo sure looks like a light Mike to me.  Look at the height of that sand dome - put a tall one like that on a Heavy and you will be hitting bridge beams.  But if you are happy moving the bell and relettering the Heavy, that is not a difficult thing to do.

I agree, heres a still from Eric Siegels video of the the legacy " light mike". Aside from the bell location and classifcation light placement, the rest of the boiler and detail looks very similar to the prototype above.

 

I'm far too lazy to repaint a whole locomotive just to re-letter, and for minor surgery.

I've done two re-letters, a K-Line C&O mikado to a Northern Pacific Class W, and a Lionel Nickel Plate 0-8-0 to a Northern Pacific Class G.

For the Class W, all I did was spray over the old lettering with Scalecoat #10 black, paint the cab roof Scalecoat Oxide Red, and letter with Micro-scale decals.




On the NP, I took off the original running boards on the engine and tender,  On this one, I took off the lettering with Scalecoat thinner on a q-tip, and did not bother to repaint, except for the cab roof.  I brushed on the paint on the running boards and front pilot with PollyScale black.  It dried great, and no brush marks.  No advantage to spraying in my opinion, and I was too lazy to clean the air brush and spray such a small area. 




I have a bit of an advantage with the weathering to hide minor imperfections, but I think they came out OK.

Below are some photos of Hot's CB&Q Class O-4 heavy mikado, which started out as a USRA light mikado.  I didn't do the work on this guy, so I don't know if she was totally repainted, as there is details that were moved around, and an elesco feed water heater added.   This model was done by Gene Kutina. 

 

Depending on the timing of your conversion, I'd be willing to walk you through what I did, and offer up my paint booth (and a tube of JB Weld if you elect to move some details and have holes to fill) to see this guy thru.  I seem to recall that you are in the Chicago area.  I'm in Willowbrook.  It would have to be after September. 

 

What are you using for decals? 

 

Regards,

Jerry

If all you are going to do is reletter then there are many techniques to remove the lettering with minimal or no paint damage. If you are going to move appliances then yes you will likely have repaint.

If I was going to do this for the first time I would start out with a much less expensive engine. I have seen K-Line scale Mikes for a little as $250 And like a few have noted the dome shape is closer to what you want to end up. Correct domes are the first thing to hit you as right or wrong. Then floorboard, pilot, and appliance locations.

 

Also Mike Reagan has said the Heavy Mike will mount on the Light Mike chassis which means you could swap the modified boiler on to the Lionel Legacy Chassis if wanted a Legacy engine.

Pete

I think I will cancel my preorder for the heavy Mike then and try to find a legacy light mikado. I wanted the whistle steam but for this project I would rather have a closer match for the engine.

 

Jerry, I have not started a decal hunt yet so I am not sure. I appreciate your offer so when I get the pieces together for the project Ill let you know. I am in Joliet so you are not far.

 

Pete if I order the light mikado then the main piece I would need to move would be the bell.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Mario's Trains shows the C&O in stock, probably a good idea to call/email and verify.

 

 At $749 shipped, you'll save $200 versus the new "heavy mike" to boot. C&O Mikado at Marios Trains

I think the switch to the light Mikado is wise.  I noticed the prototype had a different valve gear and trailing truck. You could probably bolt these in from Lionel parts.

 

Good Luck

 

Ron

Rick,

Which episode?  Been searching and can't find it.  Thanks!

 

All of the recent Mikado threads have been very interesting. Each brand has pluses and minuses.  A little detailing effort can improve an already nice model.

Ok folks I finally own a Legacy engine! Here are 3 real quick poor quality shots of my engine. I got the Union Pacific for $599 brand new (shipping included!). Pretty **** good price if you ask me. I am trying to post this quick before I head to work so I will talk about some details later, and get into what I want to change on the engine.

 

 

T

 

The engine sounds great! I have had a tube of Coal fired Steamer smoke fluid by Mega-steam for over a year, finally got to try it out.

 

Few issues out of the box:

 

1. noisy smoke fan (saw this has been an issue with others)

2. missing builder plate ( knew this was an issue no big deal)

3. ticking noise made by the gearing on the main drivers

4. the front wheels are jumping the track going over one of my Atlas switches

5. Losing the legacy signal on my atlas crossovers. MTH DCS holds a signal there fine, gonna have to figure that one out.

 

I'll try to help with the first three:

 

1. A drop of oil on the fan motor shaft bushing " might" help. Many of these motors were defective and the ultimate solution is to replace the motor if your comfortable " going under the hood". A bit tedious but not the worst repair.

 

Otherwise if your within 3 years of the date of manufacture, you could send it to Lionel for repair  They aren't taking any repairs until after AUG1st because of the relocation. The date of manufacture should be on the shipping carton if you have it. You can contact Lionel via email from their website regarding warranty repair, they will issue you an RA#.

 

 FWIW ,at $3.00 or so for a replacement motor, fixing it yourself is far cheaper than return shipping for warranty work.

 

2. I think Lionel was sending replacements, obviously of no use to you given the mods you have planned.

 

3. Are you sure its the gearbox? Some Lionel locos make a clicking sound in time with the chuffs caused by the axle cam triggering the chuff/cherry switch mounted in the chassis.This is normal.

 

Gear noise would be a constant "buzz" so-to-speak. Some grease in the gearbox screw should help. I'd grease it regardless, a 1/2-1ML shot of Red N Tacky should do the trick.

 

I grease and lube all of my locos before they get powered up for the first time.

Thanks for the reply Rick. I oiled her up before she even hit the rails.

 

I installed a 9V battery into the tender and this has fixed my problem #5 above. I didnt know the Legacy engines required a battery.

 

My switches are not yet installed but I fixed problem #4 just by making sure my Atlas switches were set correctly, instead of just allowing the spring-loaded action to allow the engine to pass through the switch.

 

I have not had a chance to oil the smoke motor yet, maybe this weekend. I would replace it myself before sending it to Lionel.

 

Rick I am using incorrect termonology when I say "gear." The noise is coming from the rods when the loco is in motion. I think one of the rods in a certain position is scraping another part.

 

So I am going to get some pricing from 3 different companies to make the custom decals. It should not be hard at all, the hardest being the Chicago Outer Belt Line that will be on the tender. I found 3 companies that will custom make decals by just searching OGR. (cant remember their names off the top of my head).

 

Hopefully these companies can also make the builders plates. Any suggestions on what I should use for the builders plate other than a decal? One problem with using a decal is that the moulded in detail for the builder plate is round and it needs to be a rectangle.

 

Also I am wondering if anyone has a part # for a trailing truck that closer matches the 755, as well as a bell. I spent some time searching the Lionel parts online and couldnt find anything yet.

Hi Eric

 

     Congratulations on your engine. Definitely will want to see your progress. Too bad we live so far and reside so close.

 

Ray Marion

You may have seen some of my progress on other threads but I thought I would update the original. With some help from the members of the greatest forum on the internet, I removed the Union Pacific lettering from my Mikado using denatured alcohol. Unfortunately this damaged the paint finish. With more help from forum members I repainted the tender and the area under the cab with PJ1 satin black which is a stunningly great match. I first just tried some touch ups with some clear coat but a repaint was necessary.

 

I placed a few orders with doityourselflettering.com for the EJ&E, and 755, and safety first keep off, that you see on the engine. They also reproduced the chicago outer belt line logo, which I made an even closer match by trimming some letters.

 

 

 

This picture is what the lettering company sent me when working on reproducing the logo. I chose the bottom option which was by far the closest match.

 

 

I painted over the number boards with a brush, then applied the 755 over the top. These boards are not lighted. The safety first keep off was seen on just about every EJ&E engine for decades. I still have some touch up to do on these.

 

 

 

The Ej&E under the cab is larger than I wanted it but for now I think it looks great. If I am ever unhappy with the lettering it comes off very easily. For now I think it's a great start and I can finally enjoy some EJ&E steam. 

 

Next i I need to move the bell back, still looking for suggestions on what bell to order. I need to repaint the fireman and engineer, and am going to paint the interior cab walls and ceiling green, also there's room for adding some details to the cab interior.

 

more to come.

Zett

 

That looks fantastic, some video of that Mike would really put your post over the edge. 

 

Ben 

Great job, a lot of useful information here!

Quite an undertaking. Looks very good.

Very impressive work, and one good-looking J locomotive!

Nice. Really like the finished product.

Hi Eric

 

     Nice progress. looks like you almost are there.

 

Best

 

Ray Marion

Eric - Really looking good so far.

 

Art

very nice so far, but in my opinion you need to "dress it" just like the photo. that would make it spectacular! what a great tribute to your grandfather as well as family history.

You've got to love having a one-of-a-kind model.  Way to go!

Make sure your not near a smoke detector if your going to watch this.

 

http://youtu.be/iNSUL3SS3r0

 

http://youtu.be/2TrnCUiJm9w

Here's one I got roped into doing for another painter.  don't know where it wound up.  started as an Overland Models Boston & Maine

Bob that's fantastic!!!

all decals were designed and printed on my Alps printer.  took a lot of doing to get right.