Help! New to O Gauge and DCS! New to me locomotives having issues!

Are you sure no switch on F-3.  Follow the Pink and blue wire from the 12 pin connector on the board.  Has to be a switch unless it was removed.

The 0-6-0 needs to be factory reset with full system.  DCS remote only recognizes factory reset engines.  Test it conventionally to make sure it works.  G

Jon,

there is no smoke switch/pot on the underside of the locomotive where the manual said it should be.

It's there. Look closer.

I've taken off the shell

Completely unnecessary for this situation and can cause issues.

When I put this locomotive on the track and apply power using a Z1000 and DCS Remote Commander, nothing happens

Did you press the Startup button and, when you did so, did the green light flash on the receiver? If so, the engine needs to be Factory Reset. To do this for this engine, you need someone with a full DCS TIU and DCS Remote. Also, after they do the Factory Reset, theymust not addd the engine back into their DCS Remote.

This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!

GGG posted:

Are you sure no switch on F-3.  Follow the Pink and blue wire from the 12 pin connector on the board.  Has to be a switch unless it was removed.

The 0-6-0 needs to be factory reset with full system.  DCS remote only recognizes factory reset engines.  Test it conventionally to make sure it works.  G

Barry Broskowitz posted:

Jon,

there is no smoke switch/pot on the underside of the locomotive where the manual said it should be.

It's there. Look closer.

I've taken off the shell

Completely unnecessary for this situation and can cause issues.

When I put this locomotive on the track and apply power using a Z1000 and DCS Remote Commander, nothing happens

Did you press the Startup button and, when you did so, did the green light flash on the receiver? If so, the engine needs to be Factory Reset. To do this for this engine, you need someone with a full DCS TIU and DCS Remote. Also, after they do the Factory Reset, theymust not addd the engine back into their DCS Remote.

---

This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!

Barry and GGG,

I have not followed a wire but I will tell you the pots are not where to manual says they should be. I am work not but I will take photos and give model numbers as soon as i get home.

As far as the switcher goes. I did run it conventional at my local store. It would start up but not move. I only have the Remote Commander for now. Sound like it still needs a reset? I will try to find someone with a full DCS remote to factory reset it for me. 

Are you're sure the 0-6-0 is a PS/2 model?  Without a model number, it's hard to know what you have.

Jon,

I did run it conventional at my local store. It would start up but not move

Sounds like a dead battery.

Alright. Here are some photos I promised. Attached are photos of the underside of the F3 with no smoke or volume pot along with a shot of the box with model number.

I've also attached a photo of the steamers model number. I changed the battery to a new battery and charged it over night. Won't start up. No movement.

Looks like you're showing us the bottom of the trailing a of the A-B-A set, there is no speaker in that one.  How about looking at the other A-Unit?

The 0-6-0 is a 5V unit.  Since it started the audio but didn't move, I'd change the battery first, it's a 2001 locomotive.  If it still has the old white battery, it's doubtless dead.  With a dead battery, you can't run conventional, as soon as you press the direction button, the sound will cut out, sound familiar?  If you changed the battery and still tried to charge it with no results, the board is likely the problem.

Here's an easy battery test.... Fire up the engine (it doesn't need to move) and then cut the track power, Sounds should continue on for at least 6 or 7 seconds.... If not the battery needs replacing... This is a must because if you need the engine in the reset state you can't get there with a dead battery and have it stick.  This would apply to both engines.

Jongrill posted:

Alright. Here are some photos I promised. Attached are photos of the underside of the F3 with no smoke or volume pot along with a shot of the box with model number.

I've also attached a photo of the steamers model number. I changed the battery to a new battery and charged it over night. Won't start up. No movement.

I think I'm just going to bring all the locomotives I purchased to our local MTH repair gentleman and have him check everything out. I also purchased a PS1 Camelback that needs to be converted to PS3!

 

 

 Whoops. I attached the wrong photo. Leading A photo attached! Again. Again, no pots or switches.

Gregg posted:

Here's an easy battery test.... Fire up the engine (it doesn't need to move) and then cut the track power, Sounds should continue on for at least 6 or 7 seconds.... If not the battery needs replacing... This is a must because if you need the engine in the reset state you can't get there with a dead battery and have it stick.  This would apply to both engines.

I replaced the old white battery with a brand new green one I just bought. Wont even start up. Off to the shop it goes!

Newer F-3 have the back door drop down for the switches.  Post a picture with shell off.  G