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Is this for real, or a joke? Seems to me it would be cheap enough for MTH to print labels, or have them printed in China, rather than pen&ink.
We also haven't seen the promised post by Marty.
It's true, I have one. MTH was waiting on more PS-2 boards to release the Steam kits, but I think they decided to go with the PS-32 3V connector in place. I was told they were sending to Techs and Stores with tech since they had a limited number.
This will be the standard for steam, since PS-3 steam is a 2 board set and that presents problems with a customer mod. Word is diesel may be a full up PS-3 with LEDs since diesel is the one piece board. So it is a matter of harness swap. G
Any idea when they will be released for sale and how much?
Dan
Some dealers may have it. It is about how many parts they have to assemble the kits. Main driver being harness and boards. These get made in batches, sold, and than later in time another batch. G
Same price as PS2 upgrades?
In the future, I'm expecting these to go up in price as the PS/3 base boards are more expensive now.
In none of the posts, do I see what is the price for the kit pictured.
GGG, in the new upgrade steam kits, which you say you have, will the loco board easily fit in the space available in a PS2 loco which carries a 5-volt board in the loco itself?
The PS-32 replacement boards for failed 5V boards are basically the same size as the board set you're replacing. They're in the same size holder as the 3V PS/2 boards, but they have a different heatsink design. I haven't seen the PS/3 upgrade kits, but I'm expecting them to be similar as far as the board size is concerned.
Thanks, GRJ. Reason I ask is that I have only 2 5-volt board locos left, both with board in the loco. I have on the shelf 2 new unopened PS2 steam upgrade kits, which I bought to replace these when they fail, intending to place the boards in the tender and rewire the locos. Just verifying that nothing in the new boards makes it worthwhile to change this plan.
The existing 3V replacement for 5V boards gives you the same functionality as you had previously, and also the same functionality as you would have with a 3V board. So, unless something changes, I don't see any reason to change your plan.
Dumb question, why rewire the loco? Normally, you can fit the 3V board in the same place with perhaps minor mods to the wiring harness. Much easier, and no real downside.
Another point, many times with the processor in the locomotive, you get additional controlled functions, markers/class lights, cab lights, etc. You will lose those changing the wiring to the upgrade kit.
Dumb question.
Not really. Reasons: It's a tight fit. I'd have to make a heat sink bracket (I have tried heating the aluminum first, which makes it easier to bend, but it's still tough). I am wary of taking the plugs apart, not having done it.
But I'm always willing to learn.
You just have to remove the connector shells from the 5V board and put them on the 3V board, no plugs have to come apart. If I have to extend wires, I just cut the wire and splice in a suitable length extension. A little heat on the connector shells helps them come off. I've done quite a few of these, it's not that difficult. It really depends on the specific locomotive how much you have to do to the harness. In any case, I suspect it would be a lot less work then gutting it and redoing it with the kit. And, as I mentioned, without mux boards, many Premier locomotives loose some lighting functionality.
Here are some photos of the new boards.
The top board looks like an interface board with replaceable FETs. The bottom board looks like a standard PS3 Diesel board. Nice design!
Dave
Attachments
Dave, where's the rectifier that needs to be heat sunk?
GRJ, you said "You just have to remove the connector shells from the 5V board and put them on the 3V board, no plugs have to come apart. Would that apply with this board also?
The rectifier is the black wafer at the end of the board. Same as 3V just vertical.
The one thing different is the connectors are higher than the 3V board. So once you have the board installed there will be less room to plug in the harnesses. So it may present some issues to over come in some applications.
G
Thanks for the alert, GGG.
Dave, where's the rectifier that needs to be heat sunk?
GRJ, you said "You just have to remove the connector shells from the 5V board and put them on the 3V board, no plugs have to come apart. Would that apply with this board also?
Well, if you buy the 5V replacement board, that's done for you. If not, I can't imagine why it wouldn't work with this board as it appears to be the same design. Note that I don't recommend it without knowing for sure, I have yet to see this upgrade board, only the 5V replacement.
The 5v boards are only available to service centers.
This board looks like a 'catch all' replacement.
Dave
I was wondering about whether or not to upgrade a first generation 5v board equipped Challenger. Other than a few bells in whistles (pun intended) do you really get anymore? Sounds don't really improve? What do you think?
You'll get very little, my advice is to run it until the 5V board craps out, then look into the options.
That's what I figured.
+1 on that advice.
Dave