I was operating my tmcc berkshire locomotive when the lights went out and the sound cut off.All I got was a blip blip from the locomotive.So I shut it down and moved the locomotive to a different spot on the layout.It operated so its not broken.I was so glad about that.I later called the little choochoo in spencer n.c.And talk to their repairman.He gave me a few ideas.I took a lighted passenger car and moved it over the track.I moved the car over a spot the lights deemed.Moved the car back the other way the lights became bright again.I then placed my hand on the track and got burned.It was the middle rail where I have atlas o gauge rail joiner mate to gargreaves.I have pulled up the track and taken it apart.I have a another railmate.But I might just go and do the whole curve in gargreaves.But I thought about running this by you guys.So any insights you want to share?
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Its a high resistance joint. Basically a bad connection of the positive rail doesn't allow electricity to flow from track to track. Tighten it up or even solder it. Not an uncommon situation.
Train Nut posted:Its a high resistance joint. Basically a bad connection of the positive rail doesn't allow electricity to flow from track to track. Tighten it up or even solder it. Not an uncommon situation.
Thanks for the info.Thats what I like about this forum.The people here are willing to help you.
Train Nut posted:Its a high resistance joint. Basically a bad connection of the positive rail doesn't allow electricity to flow from track to track. Tighten it up or even solder it. Not an uncommon situation.
Good advice.
Another solution is to put power feeders on both sides of the transition joint. I would do both a center rail and an outside rail feed.
At one time I would have soldered a jumper across the joint, but that becomes a nuisance if you want to separate the track for any reason.
You got my attention with this thread title, but I see it's not what I was thinking!
C W Burfle posted:Train Nut posted:Its a high resistance joint. Basically a bad connection of the positive rail doesn't allow electricity to flow from track to track. Tighten it up or even solder it. Not an uncommon situation.
Good advice.
Another solution is to put power feeders on both sides of the transition joint. I would do both a center rail and an outside rail feed.
At one time I would have soldered a jumper across the joint, but that becomes a nuisance if you want to separate the track for any reason.
I thank you for the info also friend.
Had the same problem with some Fastrack; you could even see sparking as the train crossed the bad joint. As above, jumpers and tightening joints is the answer...
Mitch