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I am a member of a club that runs public displays in the basement of the local drug store 2 times a month. The main attraction is the HO layout which nearly fills the 14 X 30 foot room but we also have a switching module in an alcove and a 5 x 7 multi-gauge demo table with 5 concentric loops of track running trains from N to G scale. It even has a plastic Christmas tree in the center.

I am having a problem getting my Railking  BNSF Dash 8-40c (Cab # 740, Cat 30-2129) to play nice. When I run it with the Lionel 1033 transformer, it sits on the track and puts out a very noisy impression of a diesel engine going full bore.  The train then goes thru a series of dispatcher type comments and will not budge for about 2 minutes. Then the train will respond to the throttle and and  cycle the "E" unit normally but if I stop it for any length of time it wants to do the same thing all over  again. I found the little screw head on the bottom of the loco that controls the volume so I was able to pacify the other club members who wanted to destroy it since it was drowning out all the delicate sounds their HO sound sets were making. The whistle lever sometimes rang the bell and sometimes did nothing except speed up the loco.

I picked up a 10-1033 remote and 75 watt power brick but nothing happens. I’ve done some researching and apparenly I have a protosounds 1 unit which dates back to about 1998. I get it that this remote will never run this engine unless I upgrade to proto 2 but what about getting the “Z” controller that comes in the Z1000 package?  Do protosound 1 engines work with the horn and whistle buttons on the Z controller or should I just try Lionel whistle lever and the Lionel bell activation button I got for my Lionel 18000 B-6 switcher?

Is there a way to get the full range of options that are supposed to be available to the unit?  I really would like to impress these HO guys with some wizz bang gizmology

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I'd start with that engine doing a Reset-18 for all the features.  That may solve the sitting for a couple minutes issue.  I have run PS/1 locomotives here, and I still have a couple waiting on command conversions.  None of them force me to sit for a couple of minutes before running, and I can only assume that you need a reset to get that engine's mind right.

 

I have to agree with Lee, if you're going to impress the guys running HO with DCC, you'll probably need a command system, either Legacy or DCS.

To fix the bell/whistle problem try reversing the wire connections to the 1033. This should make the whistle sound instead of the bell. The 1033 is an old transformer and probably has whistle control problems. If you can I would replace it with a Z-1000 transformer and controler. It is a modern unit that will run most of your engines both old and new and give modren control buttons. The transformer has outputs for accessories if you need it. As for the PS1 engine, I would give serious consideration to replacing the battery with one of the batteryless replacements. From the sound of it you are running on borrowed time.

 

Al

Thanks for the replies. Apparently I am somewhat lucky that it worked at all since I got the loco used on ebay a few years ago and just let it sit on a shelf in the basement until a week ago when I wanted to try running it. The battery may indeed need replacing soon since it just sat there leaking current for several years but it still seems to take a charge. I am sure that  Lee 145 is probably right that it needs to be swapped out soon. I no longer have an indoor layout of my own set up so the  club runs are my only chance to run trains. I don't set up on the rug when y wife e is up and the basement is so full of stuff and junk that there isn't enough floor space for much of anything.

A little history- I pretty much quit running O gauge about15 years ago when I built an outdoor G scale pike on the left-over dirt from our houses excavation pile after I used about half of it for landscaping and leveling. Now at age 75 I have trouble keeping the darn thing weeded enough to allow trains to pass so I am back to my first RR love --O gauge. I still have enough co-ordination to re-rail O gauge stuff but S gauge is a stretch, HO is a challenge and N nothing but frustration.

I will try the wire reversal trick to get the whistle going.  What electronic system did MTH use when the Protosound One locos were current?

My all time favorite loco is my trusty 226e with its big clunky 2800 series freight cars which I got for Christmas in l940 and still run so it is a challenge to get used to the incredibly picky and unforgiving quirks of the newer electronic marvels.

Hi Gizmog,

 

For starts, before you try ANYTHING else, replace the battery inside the engine.  The vast majority of problems with PS1 result from a dead or low battery.  From your description it sounds like you have either a weak battery that is able to hold a surface charge or someone may have replaced the battery with a BRC.  Either way, I'd put in a fresh 8.4v Ni-Cd or Ni-MH rechargeable battery.  They aren't very expensive, they work for several years, and they won't damage the battery charging circuit.  A dead battery will harm the sound chip leading to operational and sound problems.  A good battery prevents this damage.  If the chip is already scrambled it can be repaired by an MTH certified tech.

 

I would suggest also getting new bell and whistle buttons.  From your description it sounds like the rectifier in at least one of your buttons is getting old.  Many of the better features of PS1 engines can only be accessed with a combination of bell and whistle button presses.  You need those buttons working well to run PS1 reliably.

Also, download the instructions from MTH web site for a PS-1 engine.  When in neutral you don't get a whsitle.  It also sounds like you are activating the Station effects which prevent motion until you cycle through the steps.  PS-1 engines won't leave rest without a good battery charge and track voltage below 10Volts.  G

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