How many on here are building in P48?

This might be of interest (proto48 layouts):     http://www.protocraft.com/Layouts.cfm

It's too late in the game, so to speak, for me to do that route, as I'm too invested in the "regular" 1 1/4" gauge track.

However, if I was just now starting out, Proto:48 is the way I would go. There is some marvelous stuff being built; the Proto:48 website (sponsored by Protocraft, as "Mark S" mentioned earlier) has a ton of great info and pictures...

Mark in Oregon

I have the protocraft site bookmarked.

Mike cougill's blog.

Gene's blog.

P48 modeler.

 Several years of OST magazine.

San Juan car company.

NWSL is going to be my source of wheel sets.

Right 0'way for turnout components and code 100/125 rail and other such parts/supplies. 

Overland models will be the source for most of my rolling stock. With the exception of Atlas for my GP35/SD35's. Good starting points. But lots of mods needed to get the correct for the Chessie prototypes. 

Couplers protocraft. 

Still looking at finding a source for truck bolisters. I see some on shapeways for the newer atlas trucks. So I may buy some to play with. Otherwise scratch build them. I do like scratchbuilding so that is a plus. But I don't have much time due to work.So I weigh the pros and cons. For me,It's easier to spend money than it is to find time. 

Protocraft has standard friction bearing trucks. And at some point roller bearing trucks. Have not seen a set for sale though of the roller bearing trucks. My chosen modeling date is October 1978 so I will need a mix. 

First venture will be a 2x15 switching layout set in West Virginia. Minimum No7 turnouts with a classic inglenook track arrangement. Built as modules. 

Hand laid turnouts and ME code 100 flex. 

DCC and sound. Only planning on two locos in P48 now. A SD35 and GP35 with around a dozen cars. 

That's the plan now anyways. Sound reasonable? 

So I guess my interest are more related to personal input on the choice of p48,as well as pictures of your personal efforts/mistakes. 

Links of course are always welcomed. 

I will add my email to my profile now. 

And once again. Any information is appreciated. 

Thank you! 

I am not the best track layer, although I have done quite a bit of hand-laid track.   My inner loop is 1 1/8" gauge using .172 tread wheels.  That means my bolsters are very close to Proto-48.  I changed one caboose to .115 tread - very easy to do on older NWSL Proto-48 wheelsets.  It ran ok for about three months, then the temperature changed and I couldn't keep it on the track.

In the early days the Proto-48ers left steam drivers with wider treads.  Proceed with caution; Proto-48 is for exacting modelers with perfect track.

Way back when, somebody was selling Proto-48 bolsters for Athearn trucks.  White metal, but they worked fine.  I machined a few out of steel, then graduated to a simpler design in brass.

I would be delighted to feature a Proto-48 layout in the magazine, if anyone cares to submit the necessary photos and text. I have not featured a Proto-48 layout in the magazine during my 10-year tenure as editor.

Allan Miller posted:

I would be delighted to feature a Proto-48 layout in the magazine, if anyone cares to submit the necessary photos and text. I have not featured a Proto-48 layout in the magazine during my 10-year tenure as editor.

Gene D, an occasional contributor here would certainly know of some.

Simon

bob2 posted:

I am not the best track layer, although I have done quite a bit of hand-laid track.   My inner loop is 1 1/8" gauge using .172 tread wheels.  That means my bolsters are very close to Proto-48.  I changed one caboose to .115 tread - very easy to do on older NWSL Proto-48 wheelsets.  It ran ok for about three months, then the temperature changed and I couldn't keep it on the track.

In the early days the Proto-48ers left steam drivers with wider treads.  Proceed with caution; Proto-48 is for exacting modelers with perfect track.

Way back when, somebody was selling Proto-48 bolsters for Athearn trucks.  White metal, but they worked fine.  I machined a few out of steel, then graduated to a simpler design in brass.

Precise track work is key. That's why I am thinking that ME P48 flex may be the way to go to limit the amount of temperature changes vs wood ties. With synthetic road bed vs wood or homasote. Feeders soldered to every piece of rail to insure a solid pathway. Sound reasonable? 

 

Way back when, somebody was selling Proto-48 bolsters for Athearn trucks.  White metal, but they worked fine.

Wiseman Model Services sells them now.

I switched from 3RS to P:48 about 2 years ago - for me, it was definitely the right decision.

Your plan sounds solid.  Very similar to my approach and it has worked out well.  Outline the objectives and standards you want first and adhere to them.

Track work is exacting, but I figured it couldn't be any worse than HO or N, and it isn't.  I used code 125 ME flex track with turnouts built by Bill McConnell.  Am now ready to try my hand at building turnouts, so purchased a #8 P:48 jig from FastTracks.

The critical thing about turnouts is to have them plane - I installed one over a joint in the benchwork and have had problems - after shimming, it seems to be OK for now.  The layout is in a climate controlled basement with no more than a 5 degree temp fluctuation throughout the year.  Dehumidifier runs during the Spring-Fall to lessen any movement.  Another tip is to not have a curve lead into a turnout - try to have at least a car length of tangent track before and after.

If you are hesitant about converting locos, there are several experts who frequent this site.   I've used Jay Criswell and really like his work - he has produced the conversion pieces and motors for Protocraft (PC).  In fact, Norm has turned all of this portion of his business back over to Jay thru Right of Way.  I've had Jay re-motor locos with Faulhaber motors - very smooth runners, especially for switching.  Diesel easier than steam, but he is expert at both.

You'll become an expert at truck and coupler conversion. I use Protocraft trucks (not modern era, so roller bearing (RB) are not needed), PC couplers and wheel sets.  RB are tough to find - for the few cars of mine with RBs, I have converted the tracks with bolsters from Shapeways.  Works OK, but not as nice as the ball bearing trucks from PC.  Also check out Rich Yoder - he has additional P:48 trucks.  I used his swing motion caboose trucks.

If you are planning to be in Chicago for the March Meet, there is a P:48 get-together Friday nite.  Happy to chat anytime - I am still a newbie at P:48 too.

Another tip - the PC couplers take a bit more dexterity to work compared to Kadee's.  Be sure your uncoupling points are close enough to the edge of the table for you to see.  My benchwork depth is 32" in areas and have an industry spot set at 30" - it's do-able, but a bit of a pain.

...gregg

theteejmiester posted:

 

I am curious as to how many are actually building layouts in P48 on here? I have been quite enamored with P48 for a while, and have just started to give it a go in earnest.

I have the Protocraft site bookmarked.

NWSL is going to be my source of wheel sets.

Hand laid turnouts and ME code 100 flex. 

And once again. Any information is appreciated. 

Thank you!

TJ,

There's a slew of modelers building models in P48, and many building layouts. I know there are a few on this forum, but I'd venture a guess that most are not. It's actually a growth segment within O Scale, with a lot of younger guys (20's, 30's, 40's) recently moving over from HO, and joining our ranks. It's wonderful to see that, but one of the side-effects is that the steam-to-diesel "transition era" is losing ground in favor of guys that model the 1970's and later, i.e. "The Modern Era". 

Proto48 Modeler

You are certainly more than welcome to use NWSL wheelsets, but Protocraft makes a superior product. NWSL just uses straight drill rod for axles, whereas the Protocraft wheelsets have full detailed axles that correspond to the load rating of the wheelset/truck, i.e. 40 ton, 50 ton, 70 ton, and 100 ton. 

NWSL wheel backs are flat, but the Protocraft wheel backs are fully detailed and profiled to the AAR wheel spec., including a rib-backed variant. Their tread profiles are also accurate, offering one-wear and multi-wear treads.

Protocraft wheelsets are also continuously available, but NWSL availability is hit and miss.

Protocraft wheelsets

Also, there is no Micro Engineering code 100 flex in P48. The only ME flex is in code 125, and is available from Jay @ Right-o-Way.

You might also want to check out the P48 Yahoo Group, with 712 members.

P48 Yahoo Group

Matt Forsyth

The Gibson Shops

Forsyth Rail Services

TJ

FWIW:

Your plan sounds very reasonable and well thought out. You should be fine. Please keep us posted.

Since you know about Gene's blog, you must have seen the bit he ran about the NP RS3 conversion that Lee Turner did: incredible!

Mark in Oregon

Does having a ton of P:48 trucks and P:48 train cars qualify for building in P:48?

Rule292 posted:

Does having a ton of P:48 trucks and P:48 train cars qualify for building in P:48?

 

Rob,

It's a GREAT first step, unless your end-goal is to operate a business that peddles P48 product?

MF

I have always been in favor of the move to Proto-48.  I consider our track gauge problem the major "downer" for our part of the hobby.  I sincerely wish we had adopted either the correct scale or gauge in 1938.

That said, always keep in mind that wheel and track standards are not related to gauge.  Apparently, the most reliable of those are tinplate standards.  As you decrease tread and flange toward Proto-48, you sacrifice reliability for appearance.

Life is a compromise. I personally choose the correct track gauge, but opt for prewar tread/flange standards.  I greatly admire finescale modelers.  I will never be one.

bob2 posted:

I have always been in favor of the move to Proto-48.  I consider our track gauge problem the major "downer" for our part of the hobby.  I sincerely wish we had adopted either the correct scale or gauge in 1938.

This reminded me of something written in 2012 by the creator and publisher of O Scale Trains, the late Joe Giannovario. 

An excerpt of his words taken from his "Observations" column, March/April issue.

Matt Forsyth

Protocraft code 125 Flex Track is made by ME for us.  The dies are proprietary to Protocraft/ROW.  We have a batch on order but, beware, the prices are going up.  Norm was selling it at cost, or actually losing money on each sale.  I'm afraid that's a business model I can't, going forward, continue.

I need to see if ROW rail can be used (gives us the opportunity to offer steel) and if other codes can be inserted into the die.

Jay

Jay C posted:

Protocraft code 125 Flex Track is made by ME for us.  The dies are proprietary to Protocraft/ROW.  We have a batch on order but, beware, the prices are going up. 

I need to see if ROW rail can be used (gives us the opportunity to offer steel) and if other codes can be inserted into the die.

 

EXCELLENT news Jay, thanks for the update. I don't mind paying more, as long as the product is still available.

The potential of different rail code sizes and materials is also intriguing. Would love to be able to acquire your flex in code 100 and code 125 steel.

MF

Awhile ago I wound up with a large lot of first run P48 ME over length flex.  Seem to remember it was about a meter long??   I had the hardest time selling it.  P48 folks told me there was something about it they did not like.  Can any one fill in the blanks on this?

Tom Tee posted:

Awhile ago I wound up with a large lot of first run P48 ME over length flex.  Seem to remember it was about a meter long??   I had the hardest time selling it.  P48 folks told me there was something about it they did not like.  Can any one fill in the blanks on this?

Tom,

My best guess is that you're probably referring to the ME P48 flex originally made for and marketed by Ed @ House of Duddy.

That track had several issues (i.e. gauge would open up and widen past the max allowable spec. when curved), etc. Norm B. @ Protocraft had the original Duddy dies re-tooled and remedied the problems.

He has since divested himself of that track (as well as his drive components), with Jay Criswell of Right-O'-way now taking on those products. 

Right-O'-Way website

MF

This is directly from Norm (about 5 minutes ago).  It what he uses when bending flex.  I can't attest to it's abilities but I trust Norm.  That plus, I don't think he owns the company that makes it.  Can't swear he doesn't either.  He buys it at Home Depot (which he may also own).  He tells me he sprays it on lightly make his bends and allows it to evaporate.

I've been told some people can't see the attached photo.  Not sure why.  Anyway here's a link to the company that makes this stuff,

http://blastercorp.com/Dry-Lube-with-Teflon

Jay

Penn Division posted:

bob2 posted:

I have always been in favor of the move to Proto-48.  I consider our track gauge problem the major "downer" for our part of the hobby.  I sincerely wish we had adopted either the correct scale or gauge in 1938.

This reminded me of something written in 2012 by the creator and publisher of O Scale Trains, the late Joe Giannovario. 

An excerpt of his words taken from his "Observations" column, March/April issue.

Matt Forsyth

Exactly. If O scale was easy I wouldn't be in it. I enjoy the challenges of this decidedly underappreciated scale. Is stuff cheap? No. Easily available? No. Does it have a lot of draw backs? Sure,but the ability to see epuipment with mass running on scale track, with great sound and details I can actually see? Priceless. And P48 is the logical outcome of my venture into O scale. When I was in the smaller scales I didn't have the "thrill of the hunt" like I do now. It is exciting. It teaches New skills and perspectives and makes you think about the next step. I am still of the somewhat younger crowd I believe you all are referring to at 33 years old. And I am introducing fellow moderator around my area( a surprising number actually) to the ideas of P48. I see many of them look at me like I have lost my mind. But a few....well there is interest because O scale to them is associated with "toy" trains. Very enjoyable to ask these questions and to have them asked. Its a craft, a art form if you will. And I am having a blast. Now I just need time to do anything.....

I enjoy hand laying track so P48 from that perspective is easy. Converting engines is the hard part and something I find intimidating. The fine scale wheel profile is also a bit of a concern from a reliability standpoint. I'm comfortable with a 145 tread but 115 is tiny.  I'd love to have rough, uneven track undulations like the real thing but our rigid trucks and engines make that nearly impossible, especially with smaller wheel profiles. 

Well, that is timing.  I just earlier today had a discussion with Scott Mann about making P48 conversion kits for his locomotives and cars available.  I had NWSL make me axles to marry Protocraft diesel wheels to Sunset worm gears and was showing him the result.  If you are so interested please let him know.  As noted above Bill McConnell makes #6 and #8 P48 turnouts available, with or without ties.  He was making me some #10s for the Chicago meet for me but the jigs he had made were faulty so that is put off.  And John Houlihan is working on a P48 Code 125 double slip switch for me so he might be another person to express interest to. 

Gary Schrader says, "if you're track meets NMRA standards you're good to go" and he has a video on Youtube of a Key Cab Forward with .115 treads @5' gauge on his layout demonstrating it.

I've had some P48 Wheelsets made for OMI SD70/80/90s and will have some trucks in Chicago with both narrowed sideframes as well as the standard width to show.

Interesting, I talked to Scott about obtaining extra axle gears and didn't get very far.  If you have the gears and bearings making conversion kits isn't that tough.  We made conversion kits for the Atlas SW8/9 using original gears & bearings along with the new brass retainer plates.  The retainer plates narrow the truck side frames so the brake shoes line up with the tread of the wheels.  Basically, for $100.00 you can buy the kit and convert your loco to P48 in about 15 to 30 minutes.  Actually, I'll probably bring a few to Chicago.  Also bringing extra retainer plates.  Bring your old gears & bearings and I'll knock off $10.00 in trade.  I use them to make new conversion kits.  2R or 3 doesn't matter. I make new axles and install Protocraft/Row wheels for P48 and NWSL for O Scale.

Oh yeah, I bought one of Scott's SD9s (in Black Widow) with the intent of converting it to P48.  Anyone looking for one?

Jay

Since Minton Cronkite was featured on a previous post does anybody know what code rail he used on the 1 3/16" gauge track and also the tread width of wheels on the cars and engines at the Chicago exhibit, I believe in an article on Bob Smiths career [Central Locomotive Works] when he rebuilt the layout in 1950? he replaced all the track work and regauged to 1 1/4" I thought it was mentioned how worn much of the rail was [brass?] 16lbs locos!

I believe tread width was standard around .175 prior to about 1980 or so.  I had a few Q gauge wheelsets at one point, and they were standard Lobaugh.  I have no idea on the track height.

Jay C posted:

Interesting, I talked to Scott about obtaining extra axle gears and didn't get very far.  If you have the gears and bearings making conversion kits isn't that tough.  We made conversion kits for the Atlas SW8/9 using original gears & bearings along with the new brass retainer plates.  The retainer plates narrow the truck side frames so the brake shoes line up with the tread of the wheels.  Basically, for $100.00 you can buy the kit and convert your loco to P48 in about 15 to 30 minutes.  Actually, I'll probably bring a few to Chicago.  Also bringing extra retainer plates.  Bring your old gears & bearings and I'll knock off $10.00 in trade.  I use them to make new conversion kits.  2R or 3 doesn't matter. I make new axles and install Protocraft/Row wheels for P48 and NWSL for O Scale.

Oh yeah, I bought one of Scott's SD9s (in Black Widow) with the intent of converting it to P48.  Anyone looking for one?

Jay

Do you still want to P48 the SD9?  If so I can swap your trucks and a set of wheels for a pair of trucks I am converting.  I swap the worm gear and the gearbox bearings to new axles for the Protocraft wheels.  And then I shorten the bolster to pull the side frames inward (the ugly part).   Alternatively, I can just bring you some of the axles I had made to Chicago for you to do the conversion yourself if you so desire.

Rich,

At least I hope this is the Rich I'm thinking of, well, since I'm now the owner of all things, track, tools, driver wheels & tires for steam, diesel, and electric from Protocraft I do have a fairly large inventory of wheels.  We are a little short of 40"ers but we have 5000 more scheduled for delivery on the 20th.  Guess I'm covered.  What I'd hoped for was, Scott would standardize his bolsters for 3 axle trucks (and I suppose a different one for two axle) and we would make new P48 bolsters along with the axles, gears, and wheel sets.  I was working towards an easy conversion set for the modelers that wanted to do it themselves but lacked the necessary tools and machines.

I do appreciate your offer but I make all my own axles and have the shafting in stock to do it.  Having said that, I'd love to see what you've done.  If you're so inclined, bring the axles and whatever else you feel we need to review to Chicago and we can spend some time at my table.

Is there anything you're looking for from ROW or Protocraft?  I can bring everything but rail.  I am going to bring some of the P48 conversion kits for the Atlas SW8/9.  The cool thing about these kits is, you can convert the loco to P48 in probably 15 minutes.  New wheels, shorter axles, and narrowed brass retainer plates. 

Thanks again for your offer.  I look forward to meeting you in person.

Jay

I do not get it. Do you know the difference between 5 scale feet vs. 4ft 8.5inch? Just shy of 1/16".  Do you really think you can notice the difference?  Obsessive compulsive disorder comes to mind.

Rob

swrr posted:

I do not get it. Do you know the difference between 5 scale feet vs. 4ft 8.5inch? Just shy of 1/16".  Do you really think you can notice the difference?

I don't personally model in P:48, but I think the philosophy behind it is to raise the over all level of detail as high as possible; the 1/16" you mention is almost an aside. Look at the "average" P:48 model and you'll see it goes far beyond that 1/16".

Obsessive compulsive disorder comes to mind.

Rob

 Gee. We all approach modeling in our own way, correct? 

Mark in Oregon

 

Mark,

Maximizing detail is a perspective I had not considered but I thought that was universal in the 2 rail scale world and not unique to the Proto 48 realm.

Most of what I read about Proto48 is the track and who can regauge locomotives or kits to regauge, etc.  It really is mostly about the wheel gauge and track. With this in mind, I say again, does slightly less than 1/16" really make a difference?

Respectfully,

Rob

Rob

Those are valid points/questions. Perhaps someone who is active in P:48 can weigh in here.

All I know is, when I look at a Proto48 model, I have to look elsewhere in the photo to see if what I'm looking at is a 1:48 model or the real thing. Here again is the photo I posted in the "Q" scale thread that is an example of this:

The level of detail goes well beyond just the wheels and track gauge, and is way above my abilities...and I'm trying my best, too!

Mark in Oregon

Jay C posted:

This is directly from Norm (about 5 minutes ago).  It what he uses when bending flex.  I can't attest to it's abilities but I trust Norm.  That plus, I don't think he owns the company that makes it.  Can't swear he doesn't either.  He buys it at Home Depot (which he may also own).  He tells me he sprays it on lightly make his bends and allows it to evaporate.

Your enclosure didn't show up. Could you just provide the name of the magic stuff?

Strummer posted:

Rob

Those are valid points/questions. Perhaps someone who is active in P:48 can weigh in here.

All I know is, when I look at a Proto48 model, I have to look elsewhere in the photo to see if what I'm looking at is a 1:48 model or the real thing. Here again is the photo I posted in the "Q" scale thread that is an example of this:

The level of detail goes well beyond just the wheels and track gauge, and is way above my abilities...and I'm trying my best, too!

Mark in Oregon

You can buy a box stock car with ALL the detail of the one in your image. Add protocraft couplers and trucks with finer wheel profiles and you can have the same thing in OW5. It ALL revolves around what YOU want. If P48 is your bag go for it. If you enjoy hand laying track, go for it! Thanks, but NO THANKS, I'd rather watch paint dry.

Get yourself 10 or 15 large steam engines and let me know how you are doing. I'm a geezer and ain't got the patience or the interest.

Simon

>I do not get it. Do you know the difference between 5 scale feet vs. 4ft 8.5inch? Just shy of 1/16".  Do you really think you can notice the difference?  Obsessive compulsive disorder comes to mind.

Rob,

I admit that there "might" be a bit of OCD involved, but in my estimation it's not the 1/16" gauge difference that drove the process. It was more born out of addressing the highly inaccurate, old .172 wheel treads (the NMRA has since changed the O standard to a more visually pleasing .145). If a guy was going to model in exactly 1:48 (in all other areas of the model he was building) then why not take it to the limit and adopt the actual AAR wheel and axle profiles, which yields an accurately tapered and tonnage-rated axle, and a wheel that's an accurate (scale) .115 wide?

Once you've made that leap, then you start thinking, "well, now that I've made the axles and wheel profiles a true 1:48, why not correct the track gauge while I am at it?" At least that was my thought process.

>Maximizing detail is a perspective I had not considered but I thought that was universal in the 2 rail scale world and not unique to the Proto 48 realm.

Not really...there are no absolutes here, and there are certainly some models and modelers in Standard O Scale that really take it to the limit, but (generally) not like those in P48. Most folks think that P48 is all about wheel and track standards, and that's certainly a part of it. Moreover it's an entire modeling philosophy, that encompasses every aspect of the art. 

Matt Forsyth

Forsyth Rail Services

Simon Winter posted:

Strummer posted:

Rob

Those are valid points/questions. Perhaps someone who is active in P:48 can weigh in here.

All I know is, when I look at a Proto48 model, I have to look elsewhere in the photo to see if what I'm looking at is a 1:48 model or the real thing. Here again is the photo I posted in the "Q" scale thread that is an example of this:

The level of detail goes well beyond just the wheels and track gauge, and is way above my abilities...and I'm trying my best, too!

Mark in Oregon

You can buy a box stock car with ALL the detail of the one in your image. Add protocraft couplers and trucks with finer wheel profiles and you can have the same thing in OW5. It ALL revolves around what YOU want. If P48 is your bag go for it. If you enjoy hand laying track, go for it! Thanks, but NO THANKS, I'd rather watch paint dry.

Get yourself 10 or 15 large steam engines and let me know how you are doing. I'm a geezer and ain't got the patience or the interest.

Simon

I get the way you feel about P48. And many of the opinions are valid. I look at my approach to going P48 as a exercise in discipline. A way to refine my thought process and provide a way to relax. Now I understand most won't find the exercise as a relaxing break from everyday stresses,however I find that considering what I do for a living(working with the public in the automotive field) The precise tolerances are a great way to keep my sanity. And drive myself to be more disciplined in what I do. It's a great feeling. And I am just starting. I feel like finally after years of modeling I have found my right fit.   

I applaud people that take the time and have the skill to ensure that the tiniest detail is accurate. That's an art. Like Simon, I'm not going to take that plunge to the extreme but I'm certainly not going to tell people that it's a waste of time or that it isn't noticeable. For some people, like the 3RS crowd, tons of train detail is the goal until it gets to the wheels, at which point the pizza cutters are acceptable as is a 3rd rail. I personally don't understand it but again, my opinion doesn't matter as long as they are happy. It's just a hobby.

I like reliability but I also do like detail. I'm also a track person so you'd think that I'd favor P48. I love the detail of it. I love that people have even used self guarding frogs. In order to continue the realism, you need large radiuses. I have a 12 x 16 foot room. Unless I only want a couple of sidings at an industry, I need to make some big compromises. That means tighter curves. Tighter curves mean a slightly wider gauge in those curves. That requires a wider tread that what is true to scale. There are functional limits to what I can do and not have a layout prone to nothing but constant derailments. I also like some rough track and without sprung and equalized trucks is already difficult on it's own. Add in small flanges and narrow wheels and it gets even harder to pull off.

I have friends with layouts that suffer from derailments and when they happen it makes me want to sacrifice some realism to get the reliability. Sometimes the concept of hi-rail 2 rail, which is essentially large 3 rail wheel flanges but on 2 rail track, seems highly appealing. I know the look would bother me though so it's all about finding the middle ground.

I notice the difference.  The real thing overhangs track and ties. When I look at an O Scale model end-on, it looks like the rails are under the side sills.

It really isn't "OCD" - Well, no more so than having any hobby.  I am with Fred - enjoy it your way.  If I thought I had the skill and patience, I would be in Proto-48. My hobby - 17/64" -mostly takes care of the problem for me.

Fascinating thread to read through.  Proto-48 has always interested me, but I don't have the time to even plan out my OW5 layout these days.  However, I did have the opportunity a few years back to purchase a pair of Corgi PCC cars with the powered trucks and they are proto-48 trucks.  If nothing else, I can dip into the realm with some traction equipment and see how much I enjoy it.

As a side note on noticing the difference, I purchased a car at a swap meet that had proto-48 trucks.  I didn't realize it at the time until I placed it on the track and it obviously was too narrow.  It was really noticeable after seeing that!