How to Clean Lionel Diesel Battery Holder Top

I'm unfamiliar with the batteries little home, but will offer what I know works on other similar items.

 First off, its a slow process. But oil will loosen rust. Done daily for a while it removes it completely.

 If he was waiting on something, Gramps could mostly be found in the basement with oil, a diaper, and Q-tips removing rust from this or that & watching the clock (train stuff). 

  Wet with oil, agitate, wipe, or "rinse" with more oil.

At first, lots will come off, and you can do "long" sessions. Then it will taper off and once every day or two is enough. But don't stop till its spotless. 

Motor oil is about the safest. But right now I like a spray called Sheath, a firearms product. It penetrates well, and leaves a nice coat that really seems to last.

Paint and plastic don't like oil much, and hate solvent sprays in general, so be careful. 

 You can also likely replace those parts. Probably pretty cheaply too

If you can, that's I would do. Once rust is there, it will return. Cleaning it spotless does slow things, but it will be back without regularly maintaining it. 

Doesn't that contact have a spring? (Some battery holders do, I forget which ones) What sort of shape is the spring in?

 

If the battery contact or spring  is in bad shape, I'd probably replace the entire battery holder.

If you want to try cleaning it up, I'd try removing the battery holder, and use some Naval Jelly or some other rust remover. After carefully rinsing away the chemical, then I'd let it dry completely, and use a Dremel wire wheel.

Which model do you have? I think replacing that bracket would be the best. This problem is usually the result of a battery left in the engine. Opening it up and replacing the bracket would permit you to check the wiring and adjust the horn. Also, you could lube or service the rest while in there.

 

Nasty smelling PB Blaster would remove the rust with some cotton swab rubbing, also. Find some with the wooden stick. Radio shack used to carry them. A drug store may have them.

 

Phosphoric acid (one commercial name is Ospho) on a q-tip(cotton swab) would remove the rust quickly and prevent future corrosion. This is used in metal work quite a lot. I am not sure if you can buy it in small quantities. Home Depot has it.

 

http://www.ospho.com/

The model is a 2243 and the horn itself works very well. So replacing it is the best thing to do?

quote:

The model is a 2243 and the horn itself works very well. So replacing it is the best thing to do?

 

That's not quite what I wrote. It depends on how badly rusted the bracket is.
You can try to clean it first, and replace it if the results are unsatisfactory.

 

Another rust removal product is Evaporust. Some folks swear by it. Its never worked for me. Maybe I haven't left the parts to soak in it long enough.

Streamlined,

Just so you know.....you can get that part from Jeff Kane for $10.50.  If it's got a lot of corrosion, to me it's not worth the effort to get it cleaned up. Those horns are touchy enough when they are relatively clean. 

 

Roger

Take it apart,wire wheel it.if you break the spring i'll send you one free...i just did a trainmaster and it worked....worst case you can get a new repro from The Train Tender....hope this helps...joe

Evaporust takes a while to work, but does work well.

Removing heavy rust first greatly speeds the process.

Its a weak citrus based acid. Like working in orange juice. 

 Too long a soaking (4+ hours) might remove some paint/litho by creeping under the paint. Creep is worse if the metal had mild oxidation under the paint.

 Great stuff for tinplate and rusty crusty parts. I let the little stuff like lock ons, contactors, trucks and other metals soak overnight. Some for a few days.

Just agitate with a wire brush often to expose some fresh surface. I actually used a wood handled plastic bristle brush from the $ store last time and it still worked.

Long story short..er, its a good product worth using. (carefully)

 

 

 

 

Well, there isn't much currosion. When I can, I'll get a picture of it.

If I have to take it apart, what is the best way to do so?

First remove the 2 relay bracket screws,don't lose the the shoulder washer or the relay bracket insulation (very importent)then remove the relay.make a note of the wiring in case you break one.be careful when putting it back together the bracket needs to be insulated from the frame,but the relay must be grounded with the lug that is on the wire...don't over tighten the screws...sounds hard...but it's not....hope this helps...joe

Normally the electrical connection is made via both the spring and the sliding interface between the center contact and the frame.  I just solder a 24 ga stranded jumper wire from the top of the center battery contact to the copper plate on the armature/flapper of the horn relay.  This avoids not only the battery contact interface, but also the hinge interface on the horn relay.  I found that this provided a much-improved "honk", rather than the sound of a bleating sheep.  (This was published in OGR in Jim Barrett's letters several years ago.)

You will still need a clean contact where the tip of the battery touches.

That's the fix! Just solder a wire, PERFECT!  Thanks!

Thanks Dale for the fix...good info....joe

I am having one problem, the solder will not stick to the center contact. I might not be putting it in the right place. Could you include a picture? 

Remove the bracket and use the electrolysis method to remove the  rust.
http://users.eastlink.ca/%7Eps...ta/electrolysis.html

Larry

Use some flux and a hot iron.

Clean with abrasive/wire brush till shiny. Then flux, and heat to remove remaining contaminates. Clean the flux off after soldering.

 

Your using electrical solder, not plumbing solder correct?

Watts on the iron?

Being dirty is the #1 issue. Being not hot enough (usually, and sounds like it), or too hot, can do that too.

 If its stainless, your only chance will be wrapping the wire, then soldering the wire till its a solid chunk encasing the spring. Can't solder on stainless really.

Some galvanized might not take it either.

 

 You have to get the large metal base, hot enough for the solder to melt against it well. The wire heats faster/easier than the base point.

So tin an area first, then add tinned wire. Tinning ahead of time makes connecting easier, and you shouldn't need 3 hands if its fast.