I am getting ready to start a switcher engine project. The prototype had roller bearing AAR trucks instead of the earlier friction bearing. Is there any good way to(castings) that I can use if I ground down the friction bearing caps flat then JB welded the castings on? I have done this in HO scale, but the selection of castings are much better. Is there anything in the O gauge world? Thanks Mike
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Based on the picture of the Type "A" truck on Wikipedia, I'd say file off or remove the original journal casting, form a housing out of tubing, and insert a set of Lionel roller bearing truck "spinning bearing caps" (or Atlas if they have the caps).
I took a look at the PSC catalog and didn't spot a suitable bearing to use. I can't say if you could find something better from Des Plaines or P&D. But really, the bearing caps look pretty much the same as those on modern freight car trucks.
If you want them to spin, then obviously you'll need to attach them to the ends of the axles.
Jim
Spinning would be really cool, but I would have to find someone to pull that off, beyond my ablites.
I was thinking you would just glue them to the ends of the axles, unless of course the axles are flush with the face of the wheel. If the sideframes are only cosmetic like on Atlas locos, than obviously that wouldn't work.
Drill all the way through the sideframe. Shim the back of the cap as required to achieve proper positioning. Glue to axle end.
Sticking r/b axleboxes on my NW2 is on my TTD-list too, around page 5..., so you've started me looking again:
http://www.rrpicturearchives.n...ture.aspx?id=3440776
My first hit! But it looks as though these guys are only half way thru updating the axleboxes. And hold on, the rad's not like the A-N model, nor is the hood top by the cab. Hmmm - O-scale - can't beat it - on with the search!
Jason
Yeah - I have an E44 with home made truck side frames, awaiting the emergence of sleeved rotating bearings. I am too lazy to have them cast up myself, but I will probably go with lost wax brass caps soldered to a steel sleeve pressed or Loctited to the axle stub. I will probably need a very thin steel washer under the cap for a bearing surface against the brass side frame.
The big problem with the NW-2 is that two wheels are not enough for good electrical pickup. That is a different discussion, I guess - usually solved with wipers. I solved it with track sliders.
To clarify, you want exposed roller bearing caps that spin or round solid end caps? O scale American has the round solid end caps... Even ones with the skf logo on them.
The engine I plan to model had exposed freight car looking rotating roller bearing caps instead of covered roller or friction style. It could have had covers as there were tapped holes to bolt on the covers. The rotation cap was recessed into the bearing pedestal on the truck side frame. I don't have my AN NW2 yet,so I do not remember if the truck side frames are load bearing, but if they are like the F units, they carry the load so I would just "fake" the bearings and not have them rotate. Also need to hunt down the twin sealed beam version of the SW style headlights. The local short line had 3 switchers, a SW1200, SW9 and a ex IHB NW2. I am going to fake one of the SW's as the old NW2 was in boring black, never getting the short line's colors. The SW's had Leslie Super Tyfon 3 chime horns, twin amber Xenon strobes on each side of the roof on platforms and the twin sealed beam headlines(not the conversion plate on the old golden glow style). I could do the NW2 first, it would be a simple one. Black car body, silver stacks and journal box covers and an orange frame stripe. Even had its original golden glow headlights for a couple years of service before we put the sealed beam conversion plates on as the old lights sucked in bad weather. She was ex IHB 8819, shortened to just 819. Came in non running on a low boy. I helped install the trucks and go thru the prime mover to get her running again. First exposure to EMD mechanicals as a teenager helping out as a shop go-pher/helper. Also the first real train I got to really operate by myself. Ah the good ol days. On a sunny day after I washed the unit, in right light and angle, you could still see the IHB belt line logo on the sides of the black cab, one could have masked it off perfectly from its outline and restored the engines livery. Was a good engine, but we kept it on a short lease as the crews tended to neglect to check the friction bearings for lube! Normaly kept as a back up for the local switcher and a shop goat to move dead engines to the pit track for repair. 
Here is a shot of one of the two SW's. You can see the platforms for one of the two strobes. both lights died when the unit was hit by lightning, among other things fried like most of the fuses. We never replaced the strobes, but she was eye catching in the dark with twin double flash strobes going!! Mike
The All Nation NW2 trucks are load bearing and the later kits incorporate truck sideframes cast in soft metal. The early models have pressure diecast sideframes of hard zamac. I have drilled and inserted brass bearings in the soft NW2 sideframes and that works fine. As far as roller bearings are concerned, you could probably epoxy some non-working roller bearing caps onto the sideframes once you removed the friction bearing journal lids with a good file. Scale City Designs (www.scalecitydesigns.com) is offering copies of the All Nation NW2 sideframe castings in Pewter and I purchased a set to study them. They will need brass insert bearings but if you purchase a set of these you could experiment with them to install the roller bearing caps. All Nation switcher show up all the time for sale on ebay both single and dual powered. There are also General Models versions of this model that incorporate a single power truck drive with an AC motor attached to the power truck. You should find a loco with the All Nation power trucks and center mounted motor.
Also be aware that AN sold these model for 3 rail operation with hi rail pilot beams. If you want the scale version look close at the model you are considering purchasing. The 3 rail pilots have a large horizontal slot so the hi rail coupler can swing from side to side. The scale pilots have a mounting for a scale coupler and you can install Monarch working couplers, dummy knuckles or Kadees with no problem. Assembled properly these little locos will easily outlive their builder and dual powered with the AN weights they can really pull a load. I purchased my first AN switcher from Franciscan Hobbies in San Francisco in 1972 while I was in the Army stationed at Fort Ord, CA. It is still going strong!
Joe
I have a few All Nation Switchers but no spare parts for them. Does anyone sell parts for them anymore, I am sick of making everything on the lathe when I should be working on the layout. I am going to use the Switchers for slag train duty at the steel mill I have painted two in Republic steel colours and next I have to make the Republic Steel decals for them then tone them down and dirty them up big time too clean! Roo.
I have a pending deal on a AN switcher with duel power trucks. Seeing the pics of old 819, which I hadn't looked at in many years, has me thinking of maybe doing that engine first, then do the pair of SW9's (1201/1202) later. Maybe use the Atlas SW for those since it already has the correct headlights. You can see the leased Monon F7's (ne ex Milw Rd units) in the background. One reason I considered repainting my GN F7 into Monon passenger colors. The roster at start up for this short line in 1989 was GP7u's 1750 and 1751, both chop nose and the '51 had roof top air tanks, SW9's 1201 and 1202 and the 819. The F units came in 1990 as the line lacked funds to purchase more engines for grain service, so we leased them for 3 years. High hood GP30's replaced them. Mike
I like the paint on 819 nothing fancy a typical workhorse colour!
Those side windows look good I suppose for winter weather look hard to model maybe one day on the next batch probably won't happen let's be honest to many other projects! Thanks for the photos. Roo.
She was a work horse! Those all weather windows are nice when switching, you can leave the slider shut and still look down the train to see the conductor's hand signals. If anybody is looking for a pair of F units and has a pair of NW2's to swap(powered/dummy) I am looking to go to just NW's for the little layout I am building. I think they will be more practical in my small space than a pair of big road units. Mike
ROO what parts do you need for the all-nation NW2 ? i may have them.
I had the same question...
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