How to Strip paint from repainted metal parts

Charlie,

The one product that works great on prewar trains is, Easy-Off Oven Cleaner. One product that does work ever so slowly is old-fashioned, Brake Fluid. You can email me for details.

I have always had great success using brake fluid. One thing to remember though is as the brake fluid gets contaminated with the paint coming off the part, it must be  changed with fresh brake fluid. As the brake fluid gets contaminated with paint it loses it's ability to remove paint. Fresh is the key. Agitation with an old toothbrush or acid brush on the part is also recommended.

I have also had good luck using Lye, as lomg as things aren't aluminum, things go OK.

 

I especially use this technique on my railroad lamp restorations.

 

 

Gandy,

You're 100% correct. It's for this reason I only use the fluid once. Then I turn it in at a local, Auto Zone for recycle.

 

Jeff,

Years ago I used Lye. As it became harder to find, I changed to other methods. 

I've had good luck removing paint from postwar locomotives with Pinesol.

Thank you for all the suggestions!

I have had very good success using "Castrol Super Clean", with both diecast shells, plastic bodies, and it works in just a few hours.  Use an old toothbrush, for scrubbing into crevices, and then rinse in warm soapy water, then let dry.  I also usually rub it down completely with 91% Isopropyl (rubbing) Alcohol, just before repainting.  The Super Clean is in a purple bottle, and cheapest place to find it, is good ol' WallyWorld, Walmart.

Acetone works well for metal parts only. do not use on any plastic and use in a well ventilated area away from any ignition source. Lye or EZ-Off works well for plastic but will attack metal.