In need of 6-38049 wiring diagram! Please help!

Looks like you'll have to remove the black ground wire from Pin-10 of J4, that is a ground that will toast the CC-M!

The CC-M instructions show you how to splice the 4-pin black molex into the existing wires that feed the 6-pin Molex on the DCDS.

Other than that, I don't see any issues you should have to contend with.

Thanks GUNRUNNERJON. I have done that already. I found that the marker light voltage output on the CC-M was 9.5V instead of the 2.3V out of the DCDS and the headlight positive was feed from the DCDS board pin 8 instead of pin  3 on the CC-M. I got The CC-M working. Marker light #1 output is actually the headlight as it cycles on and off with the AUX 2 and the headlight button using the MTH DCS app. I had to use a diode and a 330 ohm resistor with a new set of marker lights now they work as well. I’m still trying to troubleshoot the smoke unit.  I seems that the regulator is bad. I have no voltage at the smoke unit no matter if I’m running command or conventional. Smoke on/off switch is good. I’ve seen on some other drawings that the smoke unit can be ran directly from the motherboard instead of using a regulator. Is this possible in this engine? I would like to do the super chuffer upgrade with the chuff generator but for now I would just like to get the smoke unit working. I know that the regulators are an issue and I’m wondered if I can just get rid of it. 

The marker light output is deceptive, it's current limited.  I've connected many LEDs to the marker outputs of the CC-M, they all survived.

FWIW, the market outputs turn on/off with AUX2, but that doesn't mean they're headlights.

If you want to lose the regulator, you need to do some minor rewiring.  First off, remove the regulator and make sure none of the wires are touching anything.  Find the wire that went to the regulator that powers the the smoke unit element.  This wire will have to be connected to the smoke triac output of the R2LC.  Since I don't know for sure what motherboard is in your locomotive, I can't tell you exactly how to connect it.  Your ohmmeter is your friend, smoke comes out of the R2LC on pins-5/6  Look around for an unused pin on the connectors and see if you have continuity to pins-5/6, that's the smoke output.  That goes to the smoke element.  None of the other connections to the smoke regulator will be used.  If there is no connector output, my choice is to solder the wire to the bottom of the motherboard, don't solder it to the R2LC.

IMPORTANT

You need to change the resistor in the smoke unit from the 8 ohm resistor to 20 ohms or more, the 8 ohm resistor will go up in flames and take the R2LC with it!

Thanks for that info. I will try that and let you know. Can you tell me where the headlight should connect to as I believe it is a incandescent bulb?

The headlight didn't change when you put the CC-M in, it should have remained were it was.  The DCDS has no incandescent outputs, so it wasn't connected there.

If you want to trace things, the headlight is on pins-13/14 of the R2LC.

You’re correct John about the headlight. It is a black wire going to the 5vdc regulator. What pin should it be in? It was originally in J4 pin 8. Also here is a picture of the motherboard. 

On that motherboard, here's the connections.  Note that the headlight ground isn't populated, probably because they just returned it to frame ground somewhere.

My headlight is wired there. I just traced the wrong wire. What about the wire for the 5vdc regulator? It was in J4 pin 8 on the DCDS. Should it go back there in the CC-M?

The regulator sure doesn't go there, the CC-M has ditch light outputs on pins 7-8 and 9-10, and they're LED outputs.

The 5V regulator wired to the DCDS isn't needed with the CC-M.  I believe that was supplying the opto isolators of the DCDS, it's not needed in this installation.  I think you'll find the regulator is feeding the DCDS, and none is required for the ERR installation.

Thanks for your help John! I really appreciate it. Hope you have a Merry Christmas!

I hope you have a successful Christmas install.

Thanks again for you help John! I was able to get it working. I installed a SC2 and a CG also. Everything is working except I am only getting a single pulse of the fan motor when the engine is at idle then the voltage on the fan drops to below .5 vdc. I have tested with 2 different motors with the same result. I can’t seem to figure out what’s happening. Any suggestions?

I think you may need a new smoke fan motor.  I run the fan at a low speed by dropping the power to the fan when stopped.  However, to make sure the fan starts, I give it a brief "kick" of full power to get it spinning, then it gets the lowered power.  If the motor is going bad, sometimes they won't run on the lowered power.

If it's not the fan motor, it could be a bad FET on the Super-Chuffer, I actually had one of those recently, it was caught in testing.  If the fan motor will run on 1.5VDC and doesn't consume more than 40ma, you may have a bad FET, it's the only thing I can think of.  Of course, you could have two bad smoke motors.

Measuring the voltage out of the Super-Chuffer is problematic, it's a PWM voltage, not a plain DC voltage.

I’ve tried 2 brand new motors and have the same issue. All the motors will run off a 1.5v battery. I just bought the SC last week. Can it be repaired?

Yep, sadly you have to remove it from the circuit.   If you sent it to me, I'll fix it.  If you do that, don't try to remove the solder from the holes, I'll clean it up when I get it.

That works! Where do I need to send it?

Also I have another one in a Polar Express I upgraded with ERR Cruise and RS. It does the same but only when you run it in conventional. Works fine in command. Is that normal?

The Super-Chuffer doesn't do well in conventional, it's really a command product.  However, you can enhance it's operation for conventional operation by adding a large capacitor to the power supply to allow it to run at lower voltages.   I suggest at 2200uf 35V cap connected as shown.

Thank you John, you have been a huge help and I really appreciate it. 

I'll let you know when the S-C is coming back.

Took the S-C out of another engine I have. I got the Lionmaster Class A finished thanks to your help, John! I will send you my other the other S-C board tomorrow. Thanks again! 

Lookin' good, I'll turn your unit around as fast as I can.

Hey John, thanks for the repair on my Super Chuffer board. I got it back in the engine finally and it works perfectly. I once again would like to thank you for all of your help. 

Glad it all worked out.  I'm sorry to have had the failure in the first place, but it does occasionally happen.  I got my new shipment in, I'm happy to say it appears they corrected the bad component issues, the first 20 all tested out 100%.